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Fave all time climbs


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Yes, I've done some other routes in the Bitterroot. I grew up in Missoula and went to college there. If it weren't for the Bitterroots I probably would have gone to Boulder or Arizona state. It was a great time to be a climber in Missoula. It was a wide open area with only the most obvious lines having been done. We used to go out half the time and just wander up to a good looking line and give it a try. When Wild Country friends came out it was an ongoing party. Lots more lines started getting done.

Bruce Anderson and I did the first ascent of Modern Home Environment on Nez Pierce spire up Blodgett but used aid in several places. I would like to see someone do the blank wall off the tower below the bivy ledge. Being the first one out through the upper roof was a rush. Bruce and I were the first to do the Red Tower too. Bruce was really serious. Be careful on the routes with his name on them.

Mike Scott and I did the only complete route I know of on the Bear Creek wall. Morning Thunder.

There were always people doing new crags. There are several other canyons out there that are full of crags that no one puts in the guide books because you have to hike a mile or two. Then the Lolo domes were found and the Bitterroots kind of got left to a few of us trad climbers.

What did you do in the Bitterrots? If you know of North Trapper you must have gotten out a bit.

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1. whymper couloir, aiguille verte

2. fred beckey (until i went on a trip with him), currently my buddy pete - he only has one arm and climbs damn well, and is just basically a good guy.

3. there were several routes on the south side of mt. cook that looked nice, i think the one i remember is called "the clit" ? (yes im serious) can anyone clear that up for me?

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