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New Quark Ergo!


Dane

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Dave actually turned me on the photo of Ueli Steck from last week.. Thanks Dave! Then I did a little snooping around with a few buddies and got this :) Remember you saw it first on Alpineexposures.com. OR show in SLC next week should be fun.

 

"new Quark Ergos... ridiculously aggressive though"

Similar first impression that a Nomic makes. I'm way stoked to see them in person and get them out on some ice!

 

MG_1198.jpg

 

http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions

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Ya cool Curt...not that they are bad tools but DMM also pays him a shite load of money to do so ;)

 

If "you" (not Curt 'cus I know he knows better) are judging tools by who chooses to climb on them you have missed a few things inbetween. Take a good look around Jon's web site (worth your time if you like alpine) and you'll see BD, Petzl and Grivel are well represented on some good climbing....and even a picture or two of Nick and his mate here and there on DMM.

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Here is Pertz's new line up, sadly for us tool junkies, not available until Fall of 2010. Pretty radical new Ergo. But then we all thought the Nomic was radical when it was introduced. Costs run from some where around $330 on the Ergo $300 on the nomic and $250 on the new Quark.

 

All the past tools are now discontinued :( Picks and parts will obviously be available for most for some time yet.

 

Nothing past the old Nomic pick and the new hammer/adze is interchangable. Takes a new tool to get the new end piece.

 

Nomic

aiq.sized.jpg

 

aip.sized.jpg

 

Ergo

air.sized.jpg

 

Nomic/Ero and Quark hammer (adze otion as well)

ais.sized.jpg

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Couple additional bits of info on the new Petzl hammer and adze.

 

The hammer weight is 58g

The adze weight is 69g

pick weights per pair is 65g

 

The cold thistle hammer is 33g and a closer profile to the shaft offering a better balance on the tool. Same idea with our adze. CT adze weights less but I can't qoute the numbers right now.

 

acc.sized.jpg

 

I had hoped that our pick cut and Petzl's would have been closer. No doubt you have two options now. Petzl's version is built to pound a lot of pins but you loose some of the amazing balance of the tools because of that. Our version is lighter certainly strong enough for the intended purpose but offering a lot better balance in use.

 

Fun to see that our design work is exactly the same as Petzl on the interlock with the full weight of the hammer and adze slot supported inside the tool head.

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Well, given now 3 tools the next best beta would be to find out the actually intended uses and reasons for the line-up. Clearly Quark and Nomic are upgrades, what about the Ergo, in intent, not official mumbo-jumbo? Really dry tooling on super steep terrain, or some mixed use possible by average folk? Because of the length of the upper shaft seems to be suited for rock more than ice.

 

Also, with so few canges to the new Nomic and so many people already having them... I am in for a $50 custom end piece :)

 

Again, thank you so much!!!

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So few have climbed on the Ergo yet Rafeal. Even Ueli Steck didn't get his till last week and I was told everything out is still prototypes and even showed why. Really only cosmetic changes but all the tools at the show are marked "sample not for sale". Couple of Petzl guys were able to got out on them last night but I didn't get to talk with them.

 

But from the guys like us using Nomics my take is they might well have some advantages on mixed. And still be good on moderate ice in dagger and a high grip swing, even though the tools was designed for the overhanging world cup type stuff.

 

So is the high end Grivel tool (radical bend) that is very close to the Ergo in clearenece and House/Anderson used that tool 2 years ago on Alberta.

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I want the new quarks. Bad.

 

(the link isn't working because you need to move the url.

 

 

[url=]http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887濜'>http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887濜[/url]

Epic failure! Nah, just kidding.

 

http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887濜

 

[img:left]http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/uploaded/iberger0n/2010126145644_ErgoColour.jpg[/img]

 

Edited by PeakDream
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All the picks are T rated now as well.

 

2010126145729_NomicColours.jpg

 

2010126145752_QuarkColours.jpg

 

Ergo head with the new spacer.

ajq.sized.jpg

 

Nomic and Ergos new "spike" end and the place you can get a tiny tie off through for umbilicals.

 

ajr.sized.jpg

 

 

And the Grivel tools...may be the Ergo isn't so radical after all.

 

ajw.sized.jpg

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