marc_leclerc Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37179# Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky_joe Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 seems like WI7+ is a grade that does one of two things. A) inflates water ice grades B) accounts for the danger of the climb, mental aspect (a la E scale in GB or Aid). Â I don't really know, but my understanding of the scale was that WI, much like Aid was not open ended like YDS, French, British, etc. I don't climb that hard so I won't say it's not WI7+. Whatever the grade it's a sick sick sick line! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted January 13, 2010 Author Share Posted January 13, 2010 totally sick.. but perhaps instead of upping the grade adding an X grade would be better... i guess it climbs technically like mixed but with no rock, weird and hard to grade... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 while I am no ice or mixed master, that route looks like most stanley headwall routes from the photo. wi7, especially wi7+, seems like a severe overgrade. Will be interesting to see what future ascents call it. (won't be me) Come on hardcore canucks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 I can tell you all from experience that the ice climbs in Austria tend to be graded about a full number grade softer than in Banff. So stuff they call WI4 is only WI3 in Banff, etc. Not sure if it translates here, but Gene's comment about that route looking similar to Stanley Headwall seems about right....most of those routes are consensus 6 or sometimes 6+. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syndicate Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 The article mentions a project from Will Gadd called "second choice". A quick google search turned up nothing - does anyone have a link for that climb? Â To me, conditions seem similar to the Terminator wall in Canada, but it's tough to tell from the photos supplied. In the first photo I spy more than a few rest stops. I will agree that the traverse would be pretty dicey with bad pro leading to swinging falls, but I'm not sure the climbing is hard enough to merit the grade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 I can tell you all from experience that the ice climbs in Austria tend to be graded about a full number grade softer than in Banff. So stuff they call WI4 is only WI3 in Banff, etc. Not sure if it translates here, but Gene's comment about that route looking similar to Stanley Headwall seems about right....most of those routes are consensus 6 or sometimes 6+. Â sounds like someone need to go climb the unrepeated Matriarch in Hylite: WI 7 5.11+, gear. Take a look at what real WI7 looks like. WI7 is supposed to be similar to A5; No gear that would hold on countinous overhanging delicate ice with a crappy anchor. Can't blame them for never climbing on Hylite or Cody. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Eric Dumerac gave the overhanging serac in that couloir on Kitchener WI8 and Ben Firth downgraded it to WI7 or 7+ on the second ascent... Â http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/canwi8/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted January 13, 2010 Author Share Posted January 13, 2010 Seracs are Alpine Ice...... for fuck sakes, one would think that would be obvious.... wtf? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidk Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 sounds like someone need to go climb the unrepeated Matriarch in Hylite: WI 7 5.11+, gear. Take a look at what real WI7 looks like. WI7 is supposed to be similar to A5; No gear that would hold on countinous overhanging delicate ice with a crappy anchor. Can't blame them for never climbing on Hylite or Cody. Â that was the first example that popped into my mind too. Alex Lowe's bold lines are the real deal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoran Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 (edited) [img:center]http://www.gore-ljudje.net/objave/promo/Centercourt4.jpg[/img] Â It is amazing achievement! Centercourt is no. 2. No.3 is 7- and unrepeated. Â BTW, There is discussion at European forums now that climbers put spit there which is against the "ice climbing ethic". I am not very familiar with the "rules". Â http://www.bergsteigen.at/de/bericht.aspx?ID=13543 Edited January 16, 2010 by Zoran Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Put spit there? As in, spit on the ice so it freezes because it's so freakin' thin? Holy crap! Â -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 You mean to say pissing down the route is now unethical? Ya, they need to come to NA. Â Some nice lines they are doing though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 (edited) [img:center]http://www.gore-ljudje.net/objave/promo/Centercourt4.jpg[/img] Â It is amazing achievement! Centercourt is no. 2. No.3 is 7- and unrepeated. Â Â Â http://www.bergsteigen.at/de/bericht.aspx?ID=13543 Â BTW, There is discussion at European forums now that climbers put spit there which is against the "ice climbing ethic". I am not very familiar with the "rules". Â Â Generally doesn't look any different then Trophy or SGH in The Rockies. None of these routes are graded WI7+. General consensus among visiting climbers from the Alps, most of the grades there are about 1/2 to full grades easier- so a WI6 in the Alps would be WI5/5+ in the Rockies. The exception might be Norway. The other thing is that there are fewer ice climbers there, particularly climbing harder grades), so these routes go unrepeated for years, while in the Rockies they instantly get gang-banged by locals, so the grades get corrected quicker and there is less tendency to overrate. Â Edited January 17, 2010 by glassgowkiss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Agreed Bob, I have heard Norway keeps it very real from one of my buddies who was based in the UK many years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Put spit there? As in, spit on the ice so it freezes because it's so freakin' thin? Holy crap! -Mark Spit= bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Well, that misconception just taught me what to do if I am ever climbing this kind of crap...but peeing on it! Now that's a grand idea! I wonder if it would be too brittle? Â -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoran Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 (edited) Mark, two Slovenians repeated Centrercourt last weekend. Both of them are more famous in Europe than here in Canada and USA,Aljaž Anderle in Klemen Premrl.  I embedded lager pic for you to see complexity of the place. Sorry guys. If you think it's too large just reply and I will crop it.  Enjoy!  Zoran       Edited January 22, 2010 by Zoran Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoran Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 the rock looks way to solid for WI7.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37179#  now with two repeats and one downgrade  http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37219 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braydon Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 That climb on the cover of this months R&I looked hard enough for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37179#  now with two repeats and one downgrade  http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37219  I didnt see where they downgraded it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Where the guy in the third party said he thought it was WI7- M6+? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 (edited) He said it compared to..a route rated WI7- etc. Edited February 3, 2010 by wayne1112 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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