Crillz Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 First - you can PM me so this doesn't spoil anyone's true onsight. I've never climbed the pitch, but have heard you need a bunch of the same size in the yellow or red alien range. I know it's different for climbing ability, but how many of each? 4 each? I'm not sure how much 5.10d there actually is, but this grade will be pushing it for me on lead. Roughly speaking: Yellow Alien = Yellow Metolious = .4 C4 Red Alien = Orange Metolious = .5 C4 Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 if someone is looking at a thread called "Pro Beta for Sloe Children" I think they know what they're going to get. The only 10d is on the last couple moves (any maybe the first move? seems different for everyone). If you can place a nut from a perfect 10b finger lock, you only need a double set of cams up to .75 and a set of nuts. The real beta is that your last (crux) piece is going to be a blue metolius, #1 C3 (red), a green alien or a #5-6 nut. Have fun going for the OS of that last move!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 It's been years, I remember placing a blue alien at the crux, right before I blew my onsight... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkytheflash Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 that gear beta is sound i think i sowed it up with one blue alien, 4 green aliens, 4 yellow aliens, 2 orange metolius and 1 .75. it took me forever to get that damn climb because of my lame footwork on that last move. the last time i did it went down like i levatated the move thanks to an awsome cold friction day. that is super key for the os, excelent friction conditions. this season i want to go for the god to city to sloe children linkup. i can tell you i won't be sowing it up like i did on the redpoint. all i need to find is a belayer thats willing to belay with a gri gri while simlclimbing godzilla. that's when that last move will be hard again for me with 60 to 70m of rope hanging off my balls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimmo Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 and when you're up there fiddling around with that last piece, then going for the moves, think about dave moroles soloing the thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 i remember solo-aiding it that the final piece was the most annoying - i seem to recall a tiny nut worked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTM Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 from the base of the open-book to the top, i plug one of each metolius from orange to purple in a row, that stiches 'er up like a mighty fine surgeon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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