Jump to content

Pro Beta for Sloe Children


Recommended Posts

First - you can PM me so this doesn't spoil anyone's true onsight.


I've never climbed the pitch, but have heard you need a bunch of the same size in the yellow or red alien range. I know it's different for climbing ability, but how many of each? 4 each? I'm not sure how much 5.10d there actually is, but this grade will be pushing it for me on lead.


Roughly speaking:

Yellow Alien = Yellow Metolious = .4 C4

Red Alien = Orange Metolious = .5 C4


Thanks for the info.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 6
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

if someone is looking at a thread called "Pro Beta for Sloe Children" I think they know what they're going to get.


The only 10d is on the last couple moves (any maybe the first move? seems different for everyone). If you can place a nut from a perfect 10b finger lock, you only need a double set of cams up to .75 and a set of nuts. The real beta is that your last (crux) piece is going to be a blue metolius, #1 C3 (red), a green alien or a #5-6 nut. Have fun going for the OS of that last move!! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that gear beta is sound i think i sowed it up with one blue alien, 4 green aliens, 4 yellow aliens, 2 orange metolius and 1 .75. it took me forever to get that damn climb because of my lame footwork on that last move. the last time i did it went down like i levatated the move thanks to an awsome cold friction day. that is super key for the os, excelent friction conditions. this season i want to go for the god to city to sloe children linkup. i can tell you i won't be sowing it up like i did on the redpoint. all i need to find is a belayer thats willing to belay with a gri gri while simlclimbing godzilla. that's when that last move will be hard again for me with 60 to 70m of rope hanging off my balls.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...