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5.15


kevbone

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I almost flashed ROTC. I was in the little wide part, well above the crux, about 10 feet from home on a cold day when I realized I couldn't climb it with the sweater I had on. Plus I was out of gas. I waited about three years and although it seemed harder the second time, I was more determined than ever to get it and managed to nail it. Less than perfect style, my climb deserves a footnote.

If bolts were only found at Exit 38, I suppose I'd be OK with that. What I see in Leavenworth makes me sad. Truly. When I started climbing about the only bolts you saw in the Icicle were found on ground-up clasics like Timson's Face. How things have changed.

 

wtf? what is almost flash? So you fell off, doged your way to the top (i assume you didn't lower leaving gear), went back and did it RP. so why are you dissing sportos, since you have done the exact same in the past? man, you are weak and tool at the same time. and yes, the time have changed- people warm up on 11's. so you were and still are weak, pathetic wanker

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Sport climbing? Virtually every requirement described in the previous paragraph is bypassed. You can spend days or weeks working one pitch, you can hang, yard, top-rope, whatever you want. I think Dwayner's point is accurate, which is that 5.13 isn't really that great a leap above hard 5.11 or 5.12, when so many of the requirements of traditional climbing are removed. It doesn't matter whether you've done one, or I've done one, or Dwayner's done one. If sport climbing tactics are employed, it's no greater accomplishment than climbing a 5.12 in good style.

 

I'm going to call BS on this one. Unless it was one of those routes rated 5.13 for it's endurance demands, you're looking at the equivalent of a V7 boulder problem, most likely after you have a healthy pump from some hard 11 or 12 climbing below. Unless you are a mutant, there is absolutely no way that simply rehearsing the moves are going to make them magically happen. If you aren't that mutant, it's going to take some major sport specific training, a dedication to hard bouldering, or both to make moves that hard.

 

How many 5.13 climbers even post to this board? Isn't Marc Leclerc chasing that grade (and judging from his videos, he is sick strong)?

 

I will agree with you that it is not much of a jump to make for an onsite 5.12 climber to pull a 5.13 with sport climbing tactics. To take this argument to reduce the accomplishments of Sharma (or anyone who has pulled 5.15) is silly at best.

 

So Pope, what do you think of today's cutting edge "trad" climbers such as Caldwell and Trotter? Both have shown a high level of onsite ability, but have used the sport tactic to do near superhuman feats.

 

 

Where I added bold type to your quote, that's exactly what I've been saying. When sport climbing arrived in America, rap bolting was defended because supposedly climbing 5.13 was not possible without it. In fact, those first sport climbs were in the easy 5.13 range and they didn't represent an enormous leap above what was already being done in much better style without all of the cheating, aid and bolts. And yet, folks who struggled with 5.12 gear routes could suddenly spend half their summer hanging off bolts and rehearse the snot out of a 13a climb. And they went after it like nose candy, because the dumbed-down version of rock climbing was allowing access to grades only previously seen on the cover of Climbing Magazine.

 

Then came 5.14, and 5.15. But I'd argue that 5.15 is more the spawn and progression of bouldering than sport climbing.

 

Now the choice is there to climb in whatever way motivates you. I get it that you don't like bolts. In the grand scheme of things, I don't understand how the bolts truly affect you. Sure there will be a few climbs that shouldn't be bolted, but do you go to Exit 38 wishing that all of that choss wasn't bolted? Are the endless bolt lines of Vantage really a big deal (especially compared to trash and spray paint from concert goers)? I'm sure you still go out and climb what you want, how you want to, and still get from it what you want. If I feel like going out to Exit 38 for a low key day of bolt clipping, you would never know, nor should you care. That's the way it should be.

 

If bolts were only found at Exit 38, I suppose I'd be OK with that. What I see in Leavenworth makes me sad. Truly. When I started climbing about the only bolts you saw in the Icicle were found on ground-up clasics like Timson's Face. How things have changed.

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I almost flashed ROTC. I was in the little wide part, well above the crux, about 10 feet from home on a cold day when I realized I couldn't climb it with the sweater I had on. Plus I was out of gas. I waited about three years and although it seemed harder the second time, I was more determined than ever to get it and managed to nail it. Less than perfect style, my climb deserves a footnote.

 

wtf? what is almost flash? So you fell off, doged your way to the top (i assume you didn't lower leaving gear), went back and did it RP. so why are you dissing sportos, since you have done the exact same in the past? man, you are weak and tool at the same time.

 

Actually what happened is....there's a nice stance where the crack gets a little wide. I placed a nut and weighted it slightly so that I could strip off some clothing. There was no falling or dogging, but it my mind it didn't quite count.

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Polish Sausage

 

A guy goes into a store and tells the clerk, "I'd like some Polish sausage."

 

The clerk looks at him and says, "Are you Polish?"

 

The guy, clearly offended, says, "Well, yes I am. But let me ask you something." If I had asked for Italian sausage would you ask me if I was Italian? Or if I had asked for German bratwurst, would you ask me if I was German? Or if I asked for a kosher hot dog would you ask me if I was Jewish? Or if I had asked for a taco would you ask if I was Mexican? Would ya, huh? Would ya?"

 

The clerk says, "Well, no."

 

With deep self-righteous indignation, the guy says, "Well, all right then, why did you ask me if I'm Polish just because I ask for Polish sausage?"

 

The clerk replies, "Because this is Home Depot."

 

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Great Fishing Spot

 

These two Polish guys rent a boat and go fishing in a lake. They are amazed at the number of fish that they caught that day, so one says to the other, "We'll have to come back here tomorrow!"

 

The other asks, "But how will we remember where this spot is?"

 

The first guy then takes a can of spray paint, paints an X on the bottom of the boat, and says, "We'll just look for this X tomorrow."

 

The other guy says, "You idiot! How do you know we'll get the same boat?"

 

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ow Long Is The Pole?

 

An American is walking down the street when he sees a Polak with a very long pole and a yardstick. He's standing the pole on its end and trying to reach the top of it with his yardstick.

 

Seeing the Polak's ignorance, the American wrenches the pole out of his hand, lays it on the sidewalk, measures it with the yardstick, and says, "There! 10 feet long."

 

The Polak grabs the yardstick and shouts, "You idiot American! I don't care how long it is! I want to know how high it is!"

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Polish One Liners

 

Q. Why don't polish women use vibrators?

 

A. It chips their teeth.

 

 

 

Q. How do you sink a polish battleship?

 

A. Put it in water.

 

 

 

Q: Have you seen the polish mine detector.

 

A1: Put you fingers in your ears and start stamping the ground with your foot.

 

A2: Start backing up and waving the detector in front of you.

 

 

 

Q: Why did the Polak cross the road?

 

A: He couldn't get his dick out of the chicken.

 

 

 

Q: How do you get a one-armed Polak out of a tree?

 

A: Wave to him.

 

 

 

Q: Why wasn't Christ born in Poland?

 

A: Because they couldn't find three wisemen and a virgin.

 

 

 

Q: How did the Germans conquer Poland so fast?

 

A: They marched in backwards and the Polish thought they were leaving.

 

 

 

Q: Why do Polish police cars have stripes on the side?

 

A: So the cops can find the handles.

 

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If bolts were only found at Exit 38, I suppose I'd be OK with that. What I see in Leavenworth makes me sad. Truly. When I started climbing about the only bolts you saw in the Icicle were found on ground-up clasics like Timson's Face. How things have changed.

 

I'll agree with Leavenworth being over bolted, but not terribly so. I like bolts on otherwise unprotected slab routes. Anchor bolts when there is no other way off is also OK in my book. There isn't a lot of "sport" climbing though in Leavenworth apart from a few crags or a route here or there. It isn't quite up to Peshastin standards, but I don't see it ever getting out of control like Exit 32/38. But that is fine for Exit 32/38. I think it's also fine for Vantage and Smith.

 

I think that, out of all places I've visited, Joshua Tree had the closest to ideal bolting. Not too much to take away from the adventure, but enough to open up some really cool routes that would otherwise be unprotected.

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I almost flashed ROTC. I was in the little wide part, well above the crux, about 10 feet from home on a cold day when I realized I couldn't climb it with the sweater I had on. Plus I was out of gas. I waited about three years and although it seemed harder the second time, I was more determined than ever to get it and managed to nail it. Less than perfect style, my climb deserves a footnote.

 

wtf? what is almost flash? So you fell off, doged your way to the top (i assume you didn't lower leaving gear), went back and did it RP. so why are you dissing sportos, since you have done the exact same in the past? man, you are weak and tool at the same time.

 

Actually what happened is....there's a nice stance where the crack gets a little wide. I placed a nut and weighted it slightly so that I could strip off some clothing. There was no falling or dogging, but it my mind it didn't quite count.

you bet it did not count!

you frigging hung on gear! so yes, it was doging the route in sensum stricto
. btw i remember you saying (on this bb) you did ROTS on-sight, but it turns out you were just (as usual)talking out of your ass.
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not like i really climb or anything but i've noticed this thread is fucking GHEY

just like your mom.

 

no ike the rest of the fucking polocks and euros lurking out there :ass::wave:

what is polock? i thought english was my second language. if you are going to insult someone at least learn to spell it right. Go USA! [img:center]http://media.urbandictionary.com/image/large/moran-7512.jpg[/img]

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I hope you pulled the rope and left your cam behind for climbers who deserved to be up there.

 

No. They cost too much, and I had people waiting on me who were in no position to finish the climb. And they were cold. I hung on a nut, threw down my sweater and finished. With "1 PA" is the way I wrote it in my notes. The 2nd on the rope, who is now a big advocate of sport climbing and who has a mouth even larger than yours, followed the pitch with tension for nearly every move.

 

I only went back to the climb to see if my Vertical World membership was providing dividends.

BOOO BOOO BOOO U SUCK BOOO BOOO BOOO GO HOME POSER BOOO BOOO...

 

musta sucked being all cold while dripping sweat from the heat, eh?

 

logic doesn't apply here...

 

You must remember that they hiked uphill both directions in driving blizzard snows while suffering unbelievably from the scorching 120 degree blazing sun and carrying lead bricks to anchor to so they could ascend their 5.8c/d moss covered, slug infested death defying ankle shattering heroic endeavor of a route. Each time they lowered desperately from the second move (and then the third, then the fourth, and so on...) of the route so as to stay pure to their ideals. This was due to the fact that they didn't want to suffer the "boos" from the massive audiences that also hiked uphill both directions in driving blizzard snows while suffering unbelievably from the scorching 120 degree blazing sun...

 

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I almost flashed ROTC. I was in the little wide part, well above the crux, about 10 feet from home on a cold day when I realized I couldn't climb it with the sweater I had on. Plus I was out of gas. I waited about three years and although it seemed harder the second time, I was more determined than ever to get it and managed to nail it. Less than perfect style, my climb deserves a footnote.

If bolts were only found at Exit 38, I suppose I'd be OK with that. What I see in Leavenworth makes me sad. Truly. When I started climbing about the only bolts you saw in the Icicle were found on ground-up clasics like Timson's Face. How things have changed.

 

wtf? what is almost flash? So you fell off, doged your way to the top (i assume you didn't lower leaving gear), went back and did it RP. so why are you dissing sportos, since you have done the exact same in the past? man, you are weak and tool at the same time. and yes, the time have changed- people warm up on 11's. so you were and still are weak, pathetic wanker

BAWHAHAHAHAHAHHA :lmao:....

 

remember bob, he flashed equinox on a top rope! :rolleyes:

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Let me get this straight, talking like a rap artist is a bad thing? :wazup: You're showing how behind the times you are old fella. Aren't you getting on towards retirement age?

 

I'm younger than you. I'm pretty sure you're no fan of rap either.

 

 

 

Actually I like, "Rap," or Hip hop... Going through my cd collection I quickly come up with

 

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPWhxS0Phlg

 

 

and

 

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pm7dZe0b8Rk

 

Of course I like this guy too.

 

[img:center]http://www.austinchronicle.com/binary/fe4a/Hank_Williams_autograph.jpg[/img]

 

So, you're totally wrong on that one.

 

What else are you wrong about? I'm thinking it's your attitudes and misconceptions about modern climbing. From your description of your ascent of R.O.T.C. you're a hang dogger. Maybe you didn't use the word, "Take!" but you told your belayer you needed to hang and rest.

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