Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Smee

Ice climbing

Recommended Posts

Matt like I said in reply to your PERSONAL MESSAGE, I think Krakauer represents everything wrong with contemporary outdoor journalism, and would be happy to tell him that to his face if I ever met him, or posted here. I loathe the guy.

Now his climbs are a different matter. The Ice Hose on Howser - solo - yowza that's a nice line!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No way will Krakauer post here, ever. He doesn't care whether Dru kisses up or not. Why give it away when you can get paid for it. With luck he'll slam the site in Outside magazine somewhere between the pictures of beauties in bikinis, the leather coats, and the liquor ads.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Like he cares what i think, he must be laughing all the way to the bank with the sales figures for Into Thin Wild Eiger Reams...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Dan Petersen:

No way will Krakauer post here, ever. He doesn't care whether Dru kisses up or not. Why give it away when you can get paid for it. With luck he'll slam the site in Outside magazine somewhere between the pictures of beauties in bikinis, the leather coats, and the liquor ads.

 

Outside Mag = Evil.

FEATURE ARTICLE on Saving Alaskan wilderness from oil. Then 5 pages of SUV ads. Go figure. Marshall McLuhan are you out there?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have top roped the falls at Frenchman Coulee (Vantage) across from the Sunshine Wall. They were very beginner friendly. We used screws, cams and nuts to set the anchor. FYI, these falls were pictured in an article about ice climbing in National Geographic. They don't form every year, but are very fun to climb when they do. If the ice isn't up to snuff it's usually warm enough to climb the rock instead. Good luck and try to go with someone who knows what they're doing. Those things fall down and they don't care whether you're on them or under them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not quite the fish I was hoping for, but I'm not complaining. A trask fish is better than nothing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Although I know look upon Krakaur's stuff as a little one-sided and sometimes tame I still think he is a good writer. Some of his books enticed me into checking out more about mountaineering and climbing. Being a flatlander from west texas we don't really ever hear or even know about what kind of things people do in the mountains. I have to thank him for introducing me to the world of climbing. He brought climbing into the media and the media does what it does with everthing and made our sport look cheap. I think he got a bit caught up in it but I probably would too if they were paying for me to go on a bunch of far off places to do what I love to do. So, I could talk crap about him but then again I wouldn't even live here in the NW if it wasn't for him. I have a feeling I'll be dodging spray after this one. --

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dru is just jealous, no surprise there. Krakauer not only climbs better than he does but also writes better too. What's worse is there seems to be a whole load of people out there who want to read what Krakauer has to say and will even pay for it. Dru on the other hand simply inflicts his poor attempts at humour on the rest of us and we have to live with it. Doesn't he have anything better to do with his time, climbing perchance?

To answer the original question... which, after all, is what the original poster wanted, not yet more spray.

I'd agree that seracing is a great start. But WA is worth giving a miss to for those first forays onto real ice, too fickle and often poorly formed. Drive a lot, fly a lot. All the best destinations have been mentioned. If you're driving 14 hours from OR to the Rockies then I'd say you might as well get on a plane and then the options are completely open. Don't forget NY, VT and NH when your booking flights, some fine ice to be had there too!

Later...

Ade

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have to join in...

No matter what I think about JK, (which is nothing) I totally support Dru's (and everyone elses) right to be totally rude and insensitive on this site. Even when its not in the spray section.

Otherwise, I would be really bored reading all this stuff!

We have had this discussion a number of times and basically, while there are people who get offended or get their feelings hurt, its just sort of the way it goes. We all use this site primarily to have fun, and sometimes we get some good info from each other too.

One of the first times I posted to this site, I got totally ripped on for inserting something that implied what grade I might climb. I was a little pissed off. Now, I understand, and I would be tempted to say the same thing to someone else who posted what I did.

Its all fun and games, and hopefully JK is man enough to not get hurt by words.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I worked in Livingston Montana for a month a few years ago and had a few weeksends of late season ice. Hyalite Canyon gets snowed in unlesss you have a snowmobile but there are still plenty of good places to climb.

For the beginner, in the Pine Creek drainage the Blue gully would be an easy lead and the Green Gully would be a good first foray into WI 4. The Park Gate area near Yellowstone is accessible year round and very moderate. Once you climb the WI 3 you can then top-rope a thin WI V on the right. There is a guide to Montana ice climbing that you might find at Feathered Friends. You could also call Dale at Timbertrails (the only outdoor store in Livingston) and ask him to send you one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, but the Green ain't no WI4.

Hylaite hasn't been snowed in in a couple of years, so it depends on the season. Snowmobiles are great, or skin in from the lake...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I hate Krakauer's writing style, I might like the guy if I met him.Outside mag is for whinny fucks.Ice climbing areas in the lower 48 and lower canada have all been mentioned. For you with $$$$$$$$ like the guy that suggested flying rather than driving. South Central Alaska is a ice climbers paradise. Hunter Creek, Eklutna, Eagle River and Caribou Creek are in and climbable plus if you can line up snow machines go to the Gorge(could be done without sno-go, but with short days the sno-go makes a short day doable) near the Knik Glacier, or Valdez. the first three are all within 20 to 60 minutes from Anchorage.

[ 11-30-2001: Message edited by: sisu suomi ]

[ 11-30-2001: Message edited by: sisu suomi ]

[ 12-01-2001: Message edited by: sisu suomi ]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Krackhead,writes boring shit. Read Tilman and some of Greg Child's stories of Lynn Hill getting a B- in alpine grovelling. Keep on sprayin boys.

By the way a fucking gaper like me can write interesting stories even if I cannot climb. Yoiur climbing ability often has little to due with your writing abilty. [Moon]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, rat is right. Cody is good. I have good friends there. Stay at Bunk House Willy's if you go. Kenny and his son Leif are good guys that will share tons of beta with you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×