Smee Posted October 12, 2001 Share Posted October 12, 2001 Were can I learn to ice climb with out driving to Colorado. There must be place in Oregon,anyone know where that mite be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted October 12, 2001 Share Posted October 12, 2001 The Columbia Gorge outside of Portland frezes up some years. Lillooet, in B.C., is probably the closest, reliable destination. It is perhaps a 7-8 hour drive from Portland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erwin Posted October 12, 2001 Share Posted October 12, 2001 Smee, check out the Portland guide of rock climbing. It has a section on what routes freeze in the winter in the Gorge. I'm out of Portland as well and looking for a cold and snowy winter (if I don't move to Steamboat which plans are in the making). Let's climb if I stay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 12, 2001 Share Posted October 12, 2001 The Canadian Rockies are a great place to learn, lots of moderates there to let you get into it without getting in over your head. Even Lillooet has its reliability problems, if you are going to drive that far might as well drive the extra few hours to Yoho/Banff/Jasper. It is a 10-12 hour drive from Seattle. That said, the Cascades and Washington desert offers some very good climbing, a guidebook is in the works to be published hopefully Fall 2002. Stay tuned. If you absolutely must get on some ice, then maybe glacial ice would suffice? The Coe on Hood has some great serac'ing! Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishstick Posted October 12, 2001 Share Posted October 12, 2001 I'm unsure of the ice climbing potential around Portland, but I'd strongly recommend learning the basics of ice on stable serac (glacial) ice. Learning to climb in the winter at say, Lilooette isn't ideal because it's cold, the days are short and many of the ideal intro pitches form the first pitch of a multi pitch route (tres un-cool to clog those areas). You can learn basic body positions and develop specific strengths climbing serac ice that will make your intro to the bigger world of ice vastly more satisfying. Learning how to place screws when bouldering 2 feet off the deck on vertical serac ice is much more sensible than reducing yourself to a useless mess learning new sytems while facing a 100 footer on what's otherwise a grade 2 pitch. I'm unsure of recent snow levels, but one can usually get very high quality mileage on the lower Coleman glacier at Baker until November. If there is fresh snow in that area be very careful not to fall in small slots or through lenses of water ice covering pools of water. Overall however, get as much mileage as possible prior to winter. I'd also strongly recommend learning to down climb (via ice bouldering) at your lead level. GB Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted October 13, 2001 Share Posted October 13, 2001 I hear that ice climbing in the gorge is really short- like 3-4 hours per day one or two days per year. I have gone up on the Elliot glacier on hood two times this year. Head up to the cloudcap or tilly jane campgrounds on the north side and then its a short hike up onto the glacier. Watch out for unstable ice though. Some kid has already died up there this year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted October 13, 2001 Share Posted October 13, 2001 Assuming you live in western PNW, it just isn't easy. Banks lake area will be the closest (semi) reliable ice and I'm sure you might be able to hook up with climbers on this site to go there with. Top roping is the best way to practice your techniques and I believe there is top roping at Banks. If you are willing to travel, I learned in Provo Canyon in Utah and although the place was empty in the mid 80's, I think it's extremely popular now. Every time I've gone back there's been a bunch of top ropes on the Ist pitch of Stairway and it seems there are always seminars going on. I'm sure you could easily hire a guide in SLC. Also, The Great White Icicle is probably the finest first multi pitch ice climb you can find as a beginner. Easy belay stations and very safe. You get to walk off too. Utah is also closer than Colorado! But if you want to go further, then go to Ouray. See previous post for that subject. You can search "Ouray" if you can't find it. If you don't have gear, pay attention to the yard sale section here. People are up grading all the time and selling old stuff, but old stuff is not bad! You should have rigid boots for sure and of course a helmet ALWAYS! Find a pertner who wants to learn too. There are some great books...Chouinard's "Climbing Ice" and Jeff Lowes "The Ice Experience" are the best. I saw a new one by Falcon Press and also, Jeff Lowe has instructional videos. These are highly reccomended. Hopefully you have a good solid background climbing trad routes because you need to know about setting pro and belay anchors for sure. Pay attention to avalanche danger and good luck! DPP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoky_Mcpot Posted October 13, 2001 Share Posted October 13, 2001 you are gonna die for sure. Ice climbing is INSANITY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otherguy Posted October 14, 2001 Share Posted October 14, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Smee: Were can I learn to ice climb with out driving to Colorado. There must be place in Oregon,anyone know where that mite be? Â Drive up to Tumwater Canyon and get started on Drury Falls! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 14, 2001 Share Posted October 14, 2001 I love that Montana is never mentioned in Ice climbing threads on this site. They don't have any ice to climb over there anyway, better to go to Colorado. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 yeah the ice stops at the canadian border and doesnt go into montana or idaho or anywhere south of the border. just like the glaciers!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 Hey, I'm always game for Montana, but is there good stuff for Smee? Sounds like he's a beginner. Why don't you post a little beta on what you've experienced in Montana. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 Jack Tackle puts up plenty of beginner lines doesn't he? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 I learned to Ice climb in Montana, there is tons of easy stuff. The adventure is in discovering it for yourself. Here is the beta, bring your big fat truck, chains, tow rope (winch is better), and lots of shovels. The more climbers in the car - the more pushers you have. Go fast, don't stop till you get to the parking lot. Tackle shows up in the Hyalite parking lot in his bright Orange suit and a harem of female truck pushers! I'd like to say more about it, but my freinds who still live there would kill me. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 I saw that Nat Geo article. It was by Junk Krakhore wasn't it? He should have called it Into Thin Ice. Then Anatoli Boukreev could have hired a ghostwriter to wtrite a 50 000 word rebuttal... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Dru: I saw that Nat Geo article. It was by Junk Krakhore wasn't it? He should have called it Into Thin Ice. Then Anatoli Boukreev could have hired a ghostwriter to wtrite a 50 000 word rebuttal... Â Too late now Maybe one of his comrades would be interested though. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 ouija board. then it would be REAL ghostwriting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 For what it's worth, there is an Ice Climbing Festival scheduled for November 17, 18 & 19 in Bozeman MT. Newbie workshop on 17th, intermediate on 18th and Manley Icemen on the 18th. Probably wont be any parties unless you like college girls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 Bad rumors = no ice fest in Lillooet. However anyone that has a linking for lots of booze, some ice climbing (high level of skills not needed) and a good attitude is most welcome to join me on my winter trips You can bet I'll be out there smashing down some ice curtains and dislodging large dinner plates into my forehead and onto my belayers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 I might suggest calling Barel Mountaineering in Bozeman prior to driving the 10 hours - I don't think theres any sign of ice YET (406) 582-1335 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 I heard Lyle has already reserved 100 kegs for the next lillooet ice fest. where did you hear the bad rumor?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Dru: I heard Lyle has already reserved 100 kegs for the next lillooet ice fest. where did you hear the bad rumor?? If it is so then cool. Perhaps you should contact your Canadian Comrade to confirm I can bring all my drunk friends up there to sip away......?????????!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 Oh and while you are at it tell the bozo he owes me beers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Dru: I saw that Nat Geo article. It was by Junk Krakhore wasn't it? He should have called it Into Thin Ice. Then Anatoli Boukreev could have hired a ghostwriter to wtrite a 50 000 word rebuttal... If you don't have something nice to say, don't say anything at all. Though I admit to sometimes being entertained your spray, I think comments such as those listed above can scare away well known climbers. Personally I think it would be really cool if JK would post on this website, but he certainly will not if you continue to post messages such as yours. This thread was started by a new ice climber looking for information. Please provide only information and leave your wit to other spray postings. I think a little self censorship is in order. I know I am not alone in this sentiment. I mean to say this only in a friendly way. Please think about the repercussions of your messages and what this website has become. Peace, Matt Heller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 Looks like Matt is a little out of focus Matt, If they can't take some friendly badgering then oh well. As far as the newbies, I would welcome them to the board. Serve them a drink and go climbing with most of them if I had the time myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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