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Experience with Petzl side locks?


Dane

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I've been dicking with these for a couple years off and on and finally decided I might actually try to use them again. I'd given up in the past and just went to the lever locks and forgot about these.

 

Then I fit a pair (Darts) up to boots (Trango Extreme Evo) they seem to work on and thought again....naw...may be not.

 

 

Had a crampon pop off once. Decided I never wanted that to occur again.

 

So who uses the Sidelock binding and what is (is there a) the trick? Anyone ever loose one? Secrets...ditch 'um...what is your answer?

 

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Once you get the rear bail over your boots welt, press forward on the lever side of the bail with your thumb and then pull the lock. Also check for clearance on your boots sole for enough room to allow the lever to clear the sole. I had to cut part of my sole away in order to engage the lever/lock. If you still hate them i will buy them; at a discount!!

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I have had a few problems with mine as well (Dartwin) mainly with getting the rope wedged between the boot and the rubber pull lever. Actually pulled it forward on a climb and had my partner tell me mid crux that my crampon was dangling attached by only the webbing strap. Was very exciting getting it back on.

 

The other problem i have with them is the fit, if i size it perfect, it won't lock down. If i size it one hole larger it works but leaves a small 1/8 inch gap between the heel of the boot ( Scarpa Freney) and the back of the pon.

 

I have found that a shot of WD40 on the pivot point of the sidelock mechanism also makes for easier lock down. I have also had to reshape the metal rivet on occasion as it bends from torquing it on.

 

Having owned then for 4 years now i have adjusted to their problems. I am in the market for a new crampon though when the price is right.

 

good luck Dane.

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A frenchman sold me a pair at his shop. He said that the Petzl engineers invented them because traditional heel bails that we all use kept breaking when hanging upside down. I'm sure this work was done before the advent of fruit boots. He said that if the sidelocks were strong enough to hang upside down on, they were strong enough for all of us. I'm on my second season on sidelocks and I like em'.

 

Speaking of, how many good stories could we share of blowing off a crampon while soloing? Anyone care to chime in?

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