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rodeo

Best routes for Glacier Peak

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I'm looking to attempt Glacier Peak and I'm wondering about the conditions for the rest of the year. Originally, I was thinking it would be a spring climb, but if the approach to the Chocolate route isn't too bad or the cross from the Kennedy glacier to it isn't either I'd like some input on how difficult it would be this time of the year. Any input greatly appreciated.

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good luck getting from the kennedy glacier to the chocolate. the lower kennedy is shredded and it looks impossible if not a royal pain in the ass to get to- it's in a huge, deep, steep basin. the upper part of kennedy to the saddle below frostbite ridge is in fine shape. I crossed it on the way to frostbite ridge and was excellent for cramponing with most crevasses easily by-passed. best approach for frostbite ridge is via pumice creek basin and then the ptarmigan glacier to the upper kennedy. it's a great route with lots of variety but a very long day!

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I'm thinking an approach from the Whitechuck with a start up the Pumice Creek basin is my start. Once on the hill we'd skirt the upper edges (southwest) of Ptarmigan and Vista. Cross Kennedy and travel along the upper (southwest again) of Dusty and move past North Guardian Rock to the Rabbit Ears and then shoot for the summit from there.

This will all depend upon current conditions once we start up the hill though.

Any input?

 

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