Josh Lewis Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Later this year around May I want to climb Dark Peak which is near Lake Chelan. I wanted to do it from this route: http://www.summitpost.org/route/165326/swamp-creek-route.html Glacier gear and such is a must. Also its a long ways to get there. If anyone is interested in joining me let me know. I may be able to have my brother join me if we can't get a third person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 dude, I'm sorry, but that route just doesn't look fun. plus, those chelan peaks are a pain to get to. I climbed bonanza and it was an okay climb, but more importantly, the approach wasn't miserable slide alder... if you can get a partner go for it, but you might have to pick another mountain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Lewis Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 It looks fun to me, but perhaps I could do it and then do another mountain to get more out of going all those ways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 have you heard of the gunsight range? you go to stehekin, take a bus, then bushwack for 2 days, the reward? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=702676 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=705016 I want to go in there, kind of, then I remember that the bugaboos exist... idk, whatever you do, goodluck and have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 the first paragraph of SP description: "Do you like brushing your teeth with liberal amounts of alder-flavored paste? Then this climb is for you. While not technically difficult, there will be enough exasperation on approach that you'll be wondering why climbing ever took off in the Pacific Northwest." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Sjolseth Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 I think Dark Peak is a good climb for you, Josh. Check out a TR I wrote about it here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 is the alder covered with snow in may? if the season is early enough you could totally go in a spend several days climbing all those peaks, do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Josh, I'm sorry, but it looks like you searched through every page on SP and chose the cheapest-looking mountain you could find. I'm sure you'll have lots of fun (you always do), but what was your reasoning behind Dark Peak instead of one of the thousands of other mountains here? -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazz Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 mark just because it is not a "popular" easy to access mountain doesn't mean it is cheap mountain. If that was the case then 75% of the peaks/mountains in this state are "cheap". Nothing wrong with working hard on approaches too. IMO this peak and many like it are soooooooo much better that the "popular ones". More adventure and WAY more fun than following a conga line. Go for it Josh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 mark just because it is not a "popular" easy to access mountain doesn't mean it is cheap mountain. If that was the case then 75% of the peaks/mountains in this state are "cheap". Nothing wrong with working hard on approaches too. IMO this peak and many like it are soooooooo much better that the "popular ones". More adventure and WAY more fun than following a conga line. Go for it Josh. Very true! I wholeheartedly agree with you. The Pickets are probably the least-climbed mountains in the continent, and yet I would not turn down a chance to go, 10 miles of BW5 approach and all, because of the sheer beauty of them and the feeling of serenity. However, that line on Dark Peak does not look particularly unique, just with a longer, more strenuous approach than most. I'm not concerned about Josh having fun, I know he lives for that stuff! I'm concerned about him finding a partner who would have fun as well. If anyone is into that stuff though, I say go for it! -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 yep, I'm signed on for a pickets traverse this august. I really want to climb Fury and challenger. if I can get those 2 I'll be ecstatic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 I love the names of the North Cascades mountains. Forbidden, Torment, Challenger, Fury, Terror, Storm King, etc. It just adds to their appeal. -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 (edited) I'd say, Josh, that, unless the poster's actually been there, their opinion may be comfortably ignored. The slide alder should be manageable in May, so that sounds like a sound plan. Finally, some of the, what was the word, 'cheapest' (meaning what, obscure? hard to get to?) peaks I've climbed have been some of the most beautiful trips. Dark is very remote and seldom climbed; there is beauty in that aspect alone. In fact, I'm going for that very same cheap peak this year, but earlier in the year, and we've got our ski-in party lined up already. Good luck and go for it. Edited January 3, 2010 by tvashtarkatena Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 "Cheap" is kind of an inside thing between Josh and I...he knows what I'm talking about. It doesn't mean obscure or hard to get to, I love places like that. I can't really explain it though. -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazz Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Josh talk with "iron" about this peak. I bet if you keep up your good work, work hard in your mountaineers class and keep making good choices out there. Iron may just want to join up with you on this one in May. Just an idea and he is more than capable of leading that trip. Maybe you will make some new friends at the mountaineers to get out with ya. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Sjolseth Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Dark Peak was one of my Top 5 favorite summits on the Top 100 list. I didn't feel cheated one bit. I suspect Josh will have a similar experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Lewis Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 (edited) I have a friend Gimpilator (Adam) who may be joining. I choose this place because I like this range, I also like Bananza Peak but was worried how technical it was, the views of Bananza I'm sure are good. I chose May to avoid some of the bushy like setting. Thanks Tazz for the suggestion, I'll have to get back with him sometime. Mark, I chose it also because it seemed like a good one for that month, also the approach does not scare me, I mean why would I have spend 3 days on Sahale biking and hiking up the mountain? If I added another peak I'm sure it would be an awesome adventure! I'm not a big fan of short stuff any ways. ;-) Thanks guys for your support. Although if I just had one partner more this might work just perfect. Edited January 4, 2010 by Josh Lewis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 bonanza'a no problem if you can comfortably ascend and descend exposed 3-4th class climbing without a rope. plus the views from holden lake are fantastic, whether you make the summit or not. also, the summit ridge is on of the coolest I've ever been on in the alpine, it's like a sidewalk with 2000 feet of air on either side! I'd recommend going in june or early july, and bring a shit ton of bug dope, the mosquitoes are horrendous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Lewis Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 bonanza'a no problem if you can comfortably ascend and descend exposed 3-4th class climbing without a rope. plus the views from holden lake are fantastic, whether you make the summit or not. also, the summit ridge is on of the coolest I've ever been on in the alpine, it's like a sidewalk with 2000 feet of air on either side! I'd recommend going in june or early july, and bring a shit ton of bug dope, the mosquitoes are horrendous. I heard that as well. Can you not use protection on the 3-4th class stuff? To me it's the danger part that gives me the most worry. Also is the 3-4th class part choss (loose rock)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 it's more dangerous to be roped up, as the rope catches rocks and brings them down on your head. when we did it just that happened and the rock narrowly missed me but nailed the rope, total core shot, almost severed it. just be comfortable with exposure and bring a rope along just to use if you really need it. we only made one rap in the descent, which was unnecessary, downclimbing would have been safer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 I'd stay away from Bonanza, Josh. The objective hazard is too high for your (or my) current level of experience. -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 there isn't much objective hazard, bring a helmet and watch out for falling rock, what have you guys climbed? if you've done glacier travel and scrambled a few peaks bonanza isn't too much for you at all. when I did it I soloed almost all of it and the only really technical peak I'd done before was mt. washington in the olympics, which has a single little step of 4th class on it. if you've done glacier travel and are comfortable with exposure I don't see what more experience you'd need. and I forgot, we took up my friends dad, who had never climbed anything like that before in his life, and he did fine, although he didn't really like the exposure that much. "....I don't like this!...." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Lewis Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 (edited) I've summited Mount Baker. I've got some scrambling experience. I've done a small amount of rock climbing at Index with Mark. I have rock climbing shoes and the powder stuff if that helps. I also have a glacier rope so at the very least I would think that should be brought. My worry is loose footing when going up, if it is both exposed and unstable steps I don't like that, but if its steep scramble with exposure I would have to give it some thought. I already knew to bring a helmet and ice axe. Edited January 4, 2010 by Josh Lewis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Seriously, Josh, I'd be careful. Better safe than dead. What is easy for some people is not necessarily easy for others. -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Lewis Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 As I say better safe than sorry, but better sorry than hurt. ;-) You definatly have me questioning this. Perhaps I could just go back with the Dark Peak idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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