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Fairweather

Mt Shasta TR

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Climbed Shasta via Avalanche Gulch route on Wed, June 19th. Route in good shape with perfect cramponing snow above 10,000 feet. Some rockfall in the afternoon below Red Banks reported by parties earlier in the week. One broken shoulder according to the attendant at Horse Camp.

 

Route is still 99% snow above Oberman's Causeway. The spring at Horse Camp is flowing nicely.

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Climbed it via Clear Creek a few days later on Jun 22. Going is pretty good on crampons for a ways but the upper portion is very melted out; above 12500 you have to get pretty creative to stay on the snow--best to cross over & try to catch the edge of the Wintun glacier, else you get stuck with some scrambling &/or some nasty scree. Not the most ideal conditions, but if you don't want to have to carry a rope, and if you don't want to have to deal with the masses of people going up avy gulch, it's not so bad.

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Shasta is the biggest slog I've ever done! At least Xenolith and I redeemed some fun skiing. Ok, I skied and he was a master of the mountain free-heeling some wicked turns from high up.

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