Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Argus

[TR] Darrington - Pabst Smear - FA 12/12/2009

Recommended Posts

Trip: Darrington - Pabst Smear - FA

 

Date: 12/12/2009

 

Trip Report:

David Whitelaw and I went out looking for some ice in the Darrington area on Saturday. We drove up the Clear Creek road and found a flow coming down the Asbestos Creek drainage. The 50 yard approach ensured that this would be the route we would be climbing.

 

The lower part of the route from the road. The climb continues up and left out of view in the picture.

IMG_7454.jpg

 

 

When Dave pulled out his puffy jacket that was older than me, the route name was born.

IMG_7532.jpg

 

The route has some lower angle ice to begin with that we solo'd, then steeper steps in the WI2+ range. We roped up at one of the steeper bits and climbed 5 roped pitchs. We decided to descend after that due to the fact that the next curtain we would have to climb had a significant amount of water running behind it. We hadn't exactly gotten an alpine start and didn't expect to find that much ice up there. The water flow was definitely increasing as the day went on. Most likely there would be quite a bit more ice above where we turned around. We made 4 full length double rope rappels and walked the brutal 50 yards back to the car.

 

This was definitely a fun mellow day out. The ice was nice and it actually took good screws. It's probably very rare for this to even form and even rarer to be able to drive to the base of it in December. We definitely felt like we scored.

 

Gear - 6 screws, double ropes.

 

 

 

 

 

Some lower angle ice on the bottom of the route.

IMG_7463.jpg

 

 

IMG_7476.jpg

 

IMG_7479.jpg

 

IMG_7486.jpg

 

IMG_7491.jpg

 

IMG_7493.jpg

 

IMG_7500.jpg

 

 

Cool Grotto.

IMG_7507.jpg

 

IMG_7512.jpg

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

we saw those lines from our attempt on a peak far away. It seemed like there were 4 ice lines coming down that hillside to the road. Good that you got on it before the rain will wash it all away.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome. Having splashed around in those falls on a hot summer days I always dreamed about about climbing it in winter. With it's southern exposure I never would have thought that it would actually form up. Nice work. Wish I could have been there!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeezus- what a fine cold spell. Ice climbing in DTown- I wonder if that thing has ever frozen completely; it's one of the largest multi teired waterfalls in WA.

 

Great find Argus and David! :tup:

 

MH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
whew that ice be lookin wet

 

It looks wet in the pics, but it was actually dry the whole way.

 

Gene- you have any pics from your vantage point?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Until I saw the picture of Dave's jacket, I thought you might have named the route in memory of your Monthly pap smear Matt. ;)

 

Argus - IMHO you should have named it JFCFF :lmao:

Edited by DRep

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i really dont like it when you put a tool in and water comes pouring out. Or when you can see the water flowing just under the ice. thought it was way to cold for any of that this past week! There are plenty of big multi 'tired' ice climbs in d area. this one forms up all the time when its really cold out. first time doing this was in mid. 70,s for the old man. Dont think ive seen it so 'clear' looking tho. and, usually there is a very big slide/avalaunch danger here. Have seen some big ones come thru here before.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×