Jump to content

[TR] Darrington - Pabst Smear - FA 12/12/2009


Argus

Recommended Posts

Trip: Darrington - Pabst Smear - FA

 

Date: 12/12/2009

 

Trip Report:

David Whitelaw and I went out looking for some ice in the Darrington area on Saturday. We drove up the Clear Creek road and found a flow coming down the Asbestos Creek drainage. The 50 yard approach ensured that this would be the route we would be climbing.

 

The lower part of the route from the road. The climb continues up and left out of view in the picture.

IMG_7454.jpg

 

 

When Dave pulled out his puffy jacket that was older than me, the route name was born.

IMG_7532.jpg

 

The route has some lower angle ice to begin with that we solo'd, then steeper steps in the WI2+ range. We roped up at one of the steeper bits and climbed 5 roped pitchs. We decided to descend after that due to the fact that the next curtain we would have to climb had a significant amount of water running behind it. We hadn't exactly gotten an alpine start and didn't expect to find that much ice up there. The water flow was definitely increasing as the day went on. Most likely there would be quite a bit more ice above where we turned around. We made 4 full length double rope rappels and walked the brutal 50 yards back to the car.

 

This was definitely a fun mellow day out. The ice was nice and it actually took good screws. It's probably very rare for this to even form and even rarer to be able to drive to the base of it in December. We definitely felt like we scored.

 

Gear - 6 screws, double ropes.

 

 

 

 

 

Some lower angle ice on the bottom of the route.

IMG_7463.jpg

 

 

IMG_7476.jpg

 

IMG_7479.jpg

 

IMG_7486.jpg

 

IMG_7491.jpg

 

IMG_7493.jpg

 

IMG_7500.jpg

 

 

Cool Grotto.

IMG_7507.jpg

 

IMG_7512.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 11
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

i really dont like it when you put a tool in and water comes pouring out. Or when you can see the water flowing just under the ice. thought it was way to cold for any of that this past week! There are plenty of big multi 'tired' ice climbs in d area. this one forms up all the time when its really cold out. first time doing this was in mid. 70,s for the old man. Dont think ive seen it so 'clear' looking tho. and, usually there is a very big slide/avalaunch danger here. Have seen some big ones come thru here before.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...