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[TR] Chair Peak - Northeast Buttress 12/11/2009

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Trip: Chair Peak - Northeast Buttress


Date: 12/11/2009


Trip Report:

Chair Peak: 6,238 feet.


Me and my buddy Jesse Newman decided that we needed to get outside ASAP! The weather this past week was just amazing. We probably started our trip around 6:30am.




The approach was pretty quick and easy. After a quick discussion we decided on climbing the northeast buttress. We simulclimbed a section of mixed rock and ice with Jesse leading the way up to a bomber anchor above.




For the next pitch we quickly made our way across a steep snow slope where I set up an anchor to belay Jesse up a short section of ice. I would guess it to be WI3/AI 2 ice (but i'm not sure). Jesse made it look easy.






After passing the short ice cliff we unroped to move faster. It was pretty much just a steep climb to the summit. It was a bit icy, and we were greeted with clear skies and beautiful views of the Cascades, Olympics, and Puget Sound. We were lucky enough to make out downtown Seattle and Tacoma from the summit! Such a beautiful day.


If you look towards the center of the picture below, you can make out downtown Seattle and Puget Sound.









We downclimbed some steep snow, and made 4 rappels to the base. A great trip! We were back to our car by around 4 pm.









Taco time does a body good.


Gear Notes:

two sets of ice tools, 4 ice screws (only used 3), a 60 meter 8mm rope, and one picket got the job done.


Edited by XXX

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In my 3 trips last week 1/2 I saw the ice in the Source lake area just get thicker and thicker. I could only assume the NF is a go since it was good when we were in there.

Now with the new snow... not so much.

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Climbed NF Saturday with my partner. There were maybe 7-8 parties climbing or lining up to climb NE Butt. We skirted around, got on the NF and had the route to our selves! First pitch little thin at the start. Second and Third pitches were a cruiser! Started from parking lot around 9:30am or so and back to the car at 4:30pm.


Of course, now the new snow so all bets are off for a little while atleast!


Gear Notes:

3 screws (13cm)

Cams to 1.0"

1 fluke (used)

1 picket (used)

Had pins but never used

Had set of nuts but did not use

single and double slings

1 60m rope




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Ya I didn't get a really good look at the North Face, but like the other posters I assume it was a go.


There was only one other party that we ran into that day, and they did the NF and said it was FAT. Go get it!

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