G-spotter Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Trip: Fraser Canyon - FA "Welcome To Spuzzum (Come Again Soon)" 70m WI3 Date: 12/12/2009 Trip Report: Graham, Steve, Marc Leclerc and I left the Valley in the AM and headed up the Canyon to check out conditions. There is a shitload of ice in the Canyon at the moment, some thin, much as always on the wrong side of the river. We drove as far as Hells Gate and binoculared Hell-O Kitty across the canyon. The unclimbed direct finish looked technical and mushroomy so we decided not to make the hike. Driving back down looking for a Plan B we got a glimpse of some ice from Alexandra Bridge that I remembered flying over in a chopper years ago and that looked pretty good from the air. With no snow right now we were able to drive right up the Anderson River Road to below the route. Normally this would be a 4-5km hike on an unplowed logging road. yeehaw! After gaping around in the woods for a while we found the climb - a broad curtain of funky ice with lots of ledges and short pillars. Marc and Steve climbed a line on the left while Graham and I stuck to the right side. There was even room for another party or two to fit in here. The ice was pretty wet and plastic, lots of hero one-swing sticks, but the ropes stayed mostly dry. Below the route. Graham and my line was mostly easy but interesting with lots of rests and short steeper steps up grooves and bulges - pretty textbook WI3. Marc and Steve climbed a steeper line in the first 50m with a couple of near-vertical and chandeliered pillars up to 6-7m high, then finished via our route, to give a WI3+. Graham leading G and M double dipping. Marc on top of the lower pillar Steve seconding Steve nearing the first belay. No slings at the top of this one. We rapped off a giant Douglas fir and then hiked back down to the road. Then it was off to Hope for coffee! Since this climb is so near the beautiful metropolis of Spuzzum we decided to call the two lines we had done "Welcome to Spuzzum(Come Again Soon)". WtS is 75m WI3 while CAS is 70m WI3+. Gear Notes: Fat ice takes whatever you bring. No need for stubbies or rock pro. Approach Notes: Take Anderson River main turnoff from Hwy 1 across from Alexandra Bridge PP parking lot at sand pile, and drive about 5 km to a point above a small lake. Park next to a spur road to the west marked with a gate and No Trespassing/Private Property signs. The climb is above here on the left (looking uphill). Don't get distracted by some anemic weeps directly above the parking area - veer left to the good stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 (edited) good work guys, sounds like a spot that ought to be popular with those looking for a moderate day out, at least when the south end of the canyon is 'in'... a bit of a ski, but not outrageous. cheers, Edited December 14, 2009 by Don_Serl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 went back here with Jackie today and climbed the left side, "Spuzzum Nation" 60m WI3 5.choss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigtree Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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