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marcus

Gorge Ice 2009

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Jeff Walker, Marcus and I got out today and climbed Gathering Storm. It was totally sweet, one of the longest routes in the Gorge. It's definitely in, but a little bit wet. Hopefully Marcus will post some pictures. Today was Jeff's 100th day climbing outside this year! Sweet!

 

A note about The Deer Hunter: I bolted the first pitch rope solo in the late spring/early summer this year. Marcus and I went up in late June, cleaned up the route and worked out the moves. It makes a really fun little drytooling excursion that's worth doing even if there is no ice. Also, if you're gunning for the second pitch, don't expect to find WI5.

 

Did anyone else get out today? This freeze is awesome!

 

drytool.jpg

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As Bill A mentioned, we climbed the classic Thomas-Kearney route 'Gathering Storm' on Wednesday. It is accessed by ascending 'Pumphouse Blues'(45m of Scottish fun) and then hiking up and left for 20min. We replaced the anchor webbing on PB and left V-threads on GS. Bring a change of gloves and dry ropes, but it is well worth the effort!

 

Gathering Storm P1

PC090019.JPG

Pitch 2

PC090026.JPG

Pitch 3

PC090036.JPG

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Pitch 3

PC090036.JPG

 

Holy moley, who knew that portland turned into Canmore every few years? Nice guys! :tup:

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how kewl are days like these? enough time to go to work but still climb 3 pitches of ice 'fore the sun goes down!

 

well....short pitches maybe...and on tr...but still no complaints :)

 

upper cape horn in good, heard the tier below the bridge sucked but didn't look - the approach was much nicer today than last year, the day of the almighty fawktard blizzard of ought-eight!

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saw a team on it this morning and another this evening on teh way home - indeed the village bicyle!

 

ainsworth's 1st pitch was miserable wet in the late morning - the team above us slayed the whoel thing - very impressive!

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Got on Warren Creek today after 2nding the first pitch of Crown Jewel in the dark by headlamp.

We finished at 12:30 am and I was out the door today at 7:00 am. Pics soon. Headed out now to bivy in the car in the Gorge so we don't get shut out. Hitting it hard while it is in. 9 pitches and three leads so far and we will get as much in tomorrow before it is all gone.

 

Plaidman

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Climbed Doghouse and Shark Attack routes today with Gerard S. Doghouse is a classic, sustained 100ft of WI3 in a beautiful setting with the daunting SA looming overhead. This year SA formed as a hanging dagger making for some wild cowboy antics...good times! V-thread now on DH and we shored up the anchor tat on SA(big tree, climber's R).

 

Gerard on Doghouse with SA in the background and the ol' shoes & butt shot on Shark Attack:

PC110051.JPGR0012444.JPG

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Nice work guys! Need an ice climbing partner or a group who will allow a tag along. Just had my partner call from Redmond to say he wasn't going to chance coming over to climb with the weather forecast. This was after having another partner who is in Georgia and my other ice buddy tore his rotator cuff in cyclocross this Fall, so if anyone at this late hour wants to go hit up anything in the Gorge or Cape Horn, I'm game. Call me at9716451515.

 

Ryland

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looks like the shark attack fang lost its bite - is there more to the story?

 

old bill

Edited by groupb

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With a cloudy forecast on deck, Jeff W and I decided to try our hand at some south-facing Gorge ice today. We climbed the righthand flow on Cape Horn's lower tier. It's about 70m of WI4+ and one of my favorite local ice routes. Another great day out!

 

PC120057.JPGPC120052.JPG

 

Two flows down here form regularly into climbable shape and, to my knowledge, both of them have gone unnamed up to this point. I would call this one "Catch of the Day" and the other impressive WI5 further downstream(which didn't really come in this freeze) could go by the name "River's Edge"...sounds to me so much better than "Cape Horn, Lower Tier, Far Right Ice Climb". Any objections?

 

Drove out of the Gorge today in a steady drizzle with warmer weather on deck. But I hope y'all got some good sticks in this week and maybe even ventured off the beaten path a little bit!

 

Cheers,

-M

PC120059.JPG

PS: Day number 101 of climbing outside this year for Jeff...and counting!

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Nice job Marcus on your climbs! Nate and I tried to get out today. The windy drizzle didn't deter us but the multi-car smashup we witnessed on I-84 just before Crown Jewel did. Rain freezing as it hit the pavement caused about eight or nine cars to hit the median at 60 mph and spin off the road, all in the same spot -- there was a curve. We narrowly missed being hit by the first vehicle as it spun straight at us then off the freeway. The careening cars were actually bouncing off each other on the shoulder like pool balls. It was like being in an action flick only the sparks and squealing tires were real and right in front of us. Physics in action. People were shaken and vehicles damaged, but no one was seriously hurt. We stayed to help, then once the troopers and EMT's arrived, we skipped the ice and headed home before the road got worse. It's closed now. I am jealous of ALL who got some!

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Nice job Marcus on your climbs! Nate and I tried to get out today. The windy drizzle didn't deter us but the multi-car smashup we witnessed on I-84 just before Crown Jewel did. Rain freezing as it hit the pavement caused about eight or nine cars to hit the median at 60 mph and spin off the road, all in the same spot -- there was a curve. We narrowly missed being hit by the first vehicle as it spun straight at us then off the freeway. The careening cars were actually bouncing off each other on the shoulder like pool balls. It was like being in an action flick only the sparks and squealing tires were real and right in front of us. Physics in action. People were shaken and vehicles damaged, but no one was seriously hurt. We stayed to help, then once the troopers and EMT's arrived, we skipped the ice and headed home before the road got worse. It's closed now. I am jealous of ALL who got some!

word! drove my kids out into the muck today to give'em a whack w/ the tools and were about 10 minutes behind that giant cluster-fuck - got to multnomah w/ white-knuckles then couldn't get'em outta the car! :)

 

this past week was a rare treat - awesome ice but passable roads!

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With a cloudy forecast on deck, Jeff W and I decided to try our hand at some south-facing Gorge ice today. We climbed the righthand flow on Cape Horn's lower tier. It's about 70m of WI4+ and one of my favorite local ice routes. Another great day out!

 

PC120057.JPGPC120052.JPG

 

Two flows down here form regularly into climbable shape and, to my knowedge, both of them have gone unamed up to this point. I would call this one "Catch of the Day" and the other impressive WI5 further downstream(which didn't really come in this freeze) could go by the name "River's Edge"...sounds to me so much better than "Cape Horn, Lower Tier, Far Right Ice Climb". Any objections?

 

Drove out of the Gorge today in a steady drizzle with warmer weather on deck. But I hope y'all got some good sticks in this week and maybe even ventured off the beaten path a little bit!

 

Cheers,

-M

PC120059.JPG

PS: Day number 101 of climbing outside this year for Jeff...and counting!

 

marcus, thanks for some great days of ice in the gorge this week! looking forward to the next time.

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Climbed Tanner Creek Falls on Saturday - made it out before the bad road conditions hit and had I-84 all to ourselves on the way back. Great Climbing! Climbed the first three falls (third fall was pretty wet).

 

 

First Tier

PC110126.JPG

 

Second Tier

Tanner_Creek_022.jpg

 

Third Tier Right Side

Tanner_Creek_036.jpg

 

Third Tier Left Side

Tanner_Creek_054.jpg

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