J-Tree Newbies questions

[AR_Guy]

OK - so it finally is working out that I can blow out of Seattle for a trip to J-Tree between Christmas and New Years.

 

Questions for those in the know on J-Tree:

 

1) I can lead (gear) about 5.7 to 5.8 (Vantage / L-Worth Standards). About what does this translate to at J-Tree? I realize it's "old school" on the ratings down there, so I'm figuring on starting REALLY low on the scale and getting a feel for the place before moving up on the difficulty scale.

 

2) It's unclear if I'll have a partner lined up before leaving. What are the odds of being able to hook up with a partner there at Hidden Valley CG who would be interested in doing lower grade trad? How about lower grade sport? Or is it pretty much everybody does JT 9's and up, so don't bother?

 

3) I have a couple of suggested lists of lower difficulty trad climbs to start out on that are near HVCG. Anyone have a list of lower diffculty sport climbs they'd highly recommend?

 

4) Rack suggestions - I have a set of BD stoppers, several mid size hexes and a full rack of cams from BD C3 0 to a C4 #4, with doubles or triples from 0.75 to #3. Plenty of draws, slings, etc. Good to go? A second set of stoppers? Typically is a lot of either small or larger gear needed, or a selection across the size range without multiples?

 

5) 1 60 meter adequate for most climbs?

 

6) Other suggestions that would make for a good first experience at J-Tree?

 

7) I have the 'Trad Guide to J-Tree' and another thick guide book from the 90's. Any other suggestions on guide books?

 

Thanks for the feed back.

 

Oh - and anyone interested in driving down to J-Tree from the Seattle area on the morning of the 26th, returning to Seattle area on the 2nd, to do quite modest difficulty trad, PM me.

[Crillz]

1) You'll be able to climb the same grade at Jtree as 11worth

2) Chances are good if the weather is good

3) I only know of harder than what you're after. Maybe someone else can chime in.

4) Different racks for different climbs. You should get by well with a double rack. Small TCUs come in handy. Micro cams and large cams come in handy also.

5) One 60m should be ok. Make sure you know the way down. Some raps need 2 ropes

6) May want to tape your hands.

7) That J-tree guide from 5.6-5.9 will be good for you (I call it the Picture Book). Supplement more routes in by looking at other people's guidebooks.

[ColinB]

1) About the same

2) Its super easy to find partners even for easier stuff and most people are really friendly there. There's a bulletin board in the campground that is used for finding partners and lost gear.

3) There aren't really (m)any easier sport climbs in J-Tree. Almost everything is gear.

4) What you mentioned should be fine. Its usually easy to look up a route and guesstimate what you'll need.

5)One 60 m is fine for almost everything. There's one classic 5.9 in the Wonderland of Rocks that's 2 pitches, but most folks don't do the runout slab finish and bail with 2 ropes. Can't remember the name of it. That's about it that needs a second rope.

6) Load up on water and beer so you don't have to leave every day or two.

7) Your books should be fine.

[markwebster]

there are a ton of easy 5.6 and 5.7 climbs in jtree. We used to climb them back in the days before cams were invented. Mikes books on intersection rock is a 5.6. Indian cove has a bunch of sixes and sevens. Don't worry, lots to do down there in the 5.easy range. Not so much in bolts, but trad will be no problem.

 

I always carry some big cams at jtree. Most cracks open up sooner or later. I have a couple big bros, but a few 4 camalots, and maybe a 5 would serve you well.

 

the guidebook has a section of 4 star climbs by rating. I've used that a lot to find good climbs in a certain rating.

 

Regarding finding partners, dead easy. Get a site in hidden valley and walk over to the biggest campfire. Bring a sixpack of beer, and you've got a partner the next day.

 

My buddy Craig is down there until New Years without a partner. Knowing Craig, he will hook up with one of the hotties, but if you want his number, pm me, or email me though my website at websterart.com

 

I'm skipping jtree this year. Wife is mad at me for hitting it two years in a row. I love it down there at xmas.

[Off_White]

Even in winter, Hidden Valley Campground is usually full. The trick to finding a site is to park your car, walk around, and chat people up. Find out who is leaving, or who has room for another car & tent at their site and is willing to share. Just driving around the loops won't do you any good, but some people skills will get you a site every time. For a first visit, HVCG is definitely the place you want to be.

 

Oh, and hope for a site with good sun exposure, even with good weather it will be cold in the shade.

[Crillz]

It might help if you ride the "community bike" around. Firewood helps too.

[RJRiha]

Questions for those in the know on J-Tree:

 

1) I can lead (gear) about 5.7 to 5.8 (Vantage / L-Worth Standards). About what does this translate to at J-Tree? I realize it's "old school" on the ratings down there, so I'm figuring on starting REALLY low on the scale and getting a feel for the place before moving up on the difficulty scale.

 

I went to J-tree for the first time this year, and was extremely intimidated on the climbs there. So much so that I only ended up leading 3 routes. I'm pretty solid on L-worth 5.7/5.8, with only 1 5.9 gear lead before J-tree.

 

My second lead there was a 5.10d (Hobbit Roof), and there is no way on God's green Earth that I could sack up and lead a 10d in L-worth. Third lead was Super Roof (5.9)....my gosh, what a downright FUN route (had to do it twice) I didn't feel that the grades were any harder than Leavenworth, but the gear did feel more tricky.

 

For "sport" climbing, you MUST do the 5.6 route on Headstone rock, just across from Ryan campground. The group I was with called it the "scariest 5.6 in the world"...total 5 star climb even considering how short it is.

 

 

[froodish]

I think one of the things that throws most people on their first trip or two to JT is how grippy the rock is. You'll often look at something and think it's much harder than it really is. It's amazing what you can stand on there. Cracks at JT are often flaring and take a bit of getting used to gear-wise.

 

I haven't climbed a 11worth, but be aware that the bolts can be spaced generously on moderates at JT.

 

+1 for the (SE Corner) on Headstone Rock. Fun moves and brilliant exposure for a short route. Cryptic (5.8), just to the right is fun too.

 

 

[catbirdseat]

Barry, hook up with Kirk Bishop. He's going down at the same time. I can get you contact info.

 

Your rack is perfectly adequate. Only think you can add is maybe some optional DMM Offset Stoppers. Expensive but nice at JTree.

 

Be sure you talk to Rob, he'll have some suggestions.

[curtveld]

I think one of the things that throws most people on their first trip or two to JT is how grippy the rock is.

Yup, and also rough on the hands! As Crillz suggested, bring tape for the hand cracks.

 

The face climbing is amazing, but will wear through your finger tips in 4-5 days of steady cranking. If you can, build up some calluses before you go down. And if not, be ready to take a rest day or two when they get tender (you'll know). If they tear, you'll be more limited. Have fun - it's a unique place.

[AR_Guy]

Cool - great info everyone. I'm stoked to get on down there.

 

CBS - Kirk PM'd me. We're meeting at SG before the trip. Rob gave me his list of moderate trad routes near HVCG. I figure on using it for the first day to get a feel for the place.

 

On those offsets...mmmmm...any excuse to buy gear. I might have to pick up a set.