Plaidman Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 (edited) Trip: Searching For Gorge Ice - Mist Falls - Ainsworth Left - Warren Creek Date: 12/5/2009 Trip Report: Searching For Gorge Ice 12/5/2009 It was cooling down in the Columbia River Gorge. I could see ice forming on the upper water falls on both sides of the river. Rick McDonald my ice climbing partner was just itching to try out his new ice tools. So a reconnaissance was in order. Mist Falls is the first ice to form normally in the Gorge as it is North facing and has a misty fall, hence the name. This mist falls from about 200 feet above the lower cascading section. The upper portion of the cliff is undercut and the headwall juts out from the face, so this allows the mist to blown about like a big sprinkler. It was really early in the season to expect that ice had formed but I could not tell from the road. The falls are located just West of Multnomah Falls and there is parking just below Mist Falls on the Old Columbia River Highway. The approach is short so taking a look would not require too much effort. On gaining the cascade at the bottom of the falls the ice was about 3/8 of an inch. Not much to look at. The mushrooms had not even started forming. As the ice builds it billows up into mushroom and pillows of ice. Layer after layer build as the water mists from side to side. So at times the sloping cascade will be a series of steps up to the rock face above. With a 70 meter rope the rock face can be reached where there are bolted anchors to rappel down off of. But there would be no ice climbing today. I made my report to Rick and he suggested we go out again the next day and look at a few other sites of other ice flows. Rick picked me up at 8:30 am and off we headed to check out Ainsworth Left. This is an ice waterfall that is near St. Peters Dome East of Multnomah Falls. We has never been up to see it but it is on the tick list of a friend of ours Ben. So with some sketchy directions and Tim Olson’s guide to Gorge Classic Climbs I was able to discern the approach to this climb. We proceeded up from the Ainsworth camp ground. The trail starts from the parking lot on the East end and crosses a bridge. After .2 miles it joins another trail and we proceeded West to the first large rock filled gully/stream bed. Then it was straight up to the bottom of the ice flow. Ainsworth Left is left of a large canyon that ends in an amphitheater. Rick walked up left of the canyon to the bottom of the ice flow. This thing is huge. The first and second pitches look doable. With think we can make it up at least 4 pitches, as there are definite steps and pools to rest and set up solid belays. But the upper section is going to require a real mean experienced ice climber. That can be Ben’s pitch. Don’t know if it has been done in the past. The upper section looks real burly and long. In looking at the whole flow I think that the climb could go in not less than 5 pitches. We will see. Rick and I ran down and got lunch and headed to look at Cabin Creek and a flow just West of it. I thought the flow would come in as it cascades over rocks and could build into WI2. WI stands for waterfall ice. Here is a link to the grading system: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ice_climbing#Waterfall_ice_grading We looked at it but it seemed to be only 30 ft tall and the water fall above comes out of a man made tunnel. We were not sure why the water was diverted but it is definitely man made. The tunnel is directly across from the O.D.O.T. weight station just West of Starvation Creek. Starvation Creek is just East of Cascade Locks on the Oregon side of the Columbia River Gorge. After looking at the disappointing possibilities we decided to explore the trail #414 which goes from Starvation Creek rest area and proceeds West passing Cabin Creek and goes up to Mt. Defiance. We were hoping to solve the mystery of the tunnel through the rock so up we hike the trail We came to a split in the trail and turned left. Proceeding East we were taken up to a prominent ridge and after realizing the trail had taken us well above the fall we did not feel up to bushwhacking above the falls to solve the mystery. On our return moving West and from the ridge we could see what turned out to be Warren Creek. We were very excited as it was one that we had seen from I-84 many times. From the split in the trail that we had turned left on previously we went straight west and passed the split in the trail. We did not walk far maybe a ¼ mile. Warren Creek had some ice forming and it looks like when it is in it will be a good one. WI2 maybe WI3 would be the grade for the lower section near the trial. We could see at least 2 or three steps and pool sections from the trail. I wanted to see higher so we moved up and climbed the hillside to the left of the water fall. There is a split in the cliff face that allowed us to gain the upper section of the water fall and we were standing next to and slightly above the upper section of the water fall. WOW! It looks great and the ice was already forming on the cascading sections. The pool we were standing above had a cascading section of WI3 with a good rest before starting a section of WI4. We had a great day of getting ready for the up coming season which can be short in the Columbia River Gorge. So you have to hit it hard and fast if you want to get some. Videos: Mist Falls Columbia River Gorge checking out the ice. Early season ice climbing Bad wind. Turn down volume before watching. Edited December 7, 2009 by Plaidman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 how many times can you say it ain't ready yet, scotty? I do love your dedication to video reporting, however! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted December 7, 2009 Author Share Posted December 7, 2009 I can say it ain't ready yet a lot while I am ready to pounce on the first icicle that will hold my weight. Going out in the morning. RRRRRRarRRRRRR. Plaidman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 that's the spirit, plaidman! go get some! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdk Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 Going out in the morning. Plaidman If you're gonna post here on conditions, will you take some photos? While I enjoyed your videos, it's really hard to tell what shape the ice is in... thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 WI stands for waterfall ice. Here is a link to the grading system: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ice_climbing#Waterfall_ice_grading No shit? Thank for clearing that up. I suspect many Oregonians would have no idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted December 7, 2009 Author Share Posted December 7, 2009 Photos on the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted December 7, 2009 Author Share Posted December 7, 2009 WI stands for waterfall ice. Here is a link to the grading system: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ice_climbing#Waterfall_ice_grading No shit? Thank for clearing that up. I suspect many Oregonians would have no idea That would be correct. Most people are clueless. Just trying to add more information that seems pertinent. Glad you are so well informed as to not need the extra information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 WI stands for waterfall ice. Here is a link to the grading system: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ice_climbing#Waterfall_ice_grading No shit? Thank for clearing that up. I suspect many Oregonians would have no idea That would be correct. Most people are clueless. Just trying to add more information that seems pertinent. Glad you are so well informed as to not need the extra information. drool is probably not on your redudant emailing list is all and therefore don't dig that yer mass emailing these dispatches to your entire address book, which no doubt contains the climb'n'clueless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted December 8, 2009 Author Share Posted December 8, 2009 (edited) Photos 12/05/2009 Mist Falls 3/8 inch ice. A little thin. I think. Ainsworth Left 12/06/2009 Ainsworth Canyon Edited December 8, 2009 by Plaidman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted December 8, 2009 Share Posted December 8, 2009 Needs way more time............... Give it til Thursday and it will be perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted December 8, 2009 Author Share Posted December 8, 2009 We will see. Ice or no ice we are going to look at it and if it is in pounce! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobey Posted December 8, 2009 Share Posted December 8, 2009 TR is from the 5th; today (7th) has been SUPER cold; any climbable Gorge ice yet? anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted December 8, 2009 Author Share Posted December 8, 2009 Ainsworth was seen yesterday the on 6th. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobey Posted December 8, 2009 Share Posted December 8, 2009 Thanks, Plaidman, didn't notice that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frikadeller Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Perhaps none of this really matters because ODOT has closed Hwy. 84 between Troutdale and Hood River as of this saturday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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