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[TR] Chair Peak - North Face 12/3/2009

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Trip: Chair Peak - North Face


Date: 12/3/2009


Trip Report:

Dirtbag Packworks and I headed up to the pass to take advantage of this awesome cold snap. The trail trough up to Source Lake was beaten and fast. The North face had many line options and we ended up starting out one left-facing corner left of the usual one which had thin unprotectable ice and was a lot of fun. From the top of that pitch I looked over to the "standard" first pitch on the right and looked like it had a lot more snow and ice. On P2 we trended right and rejoined the "standard" route. The climbing was fun and the conditions were great. The descent gully is a little bare in spots and has some downclimbing steps required. Spotted 4-5 rap stations. Didn't test them all but I'm sure they are all bomber, right?

Anyways, get on it.


E Face



E Face, NE Butt, N Face



First pitch



Topping out



Extremely clear day



Gear Notes:

2 pickets would've been nice (we had 1), used one screw (2 would've been good if you do the standard first pitch which has thicker ice), thin and short knifeblades were the best pro I found. Found no nut placements down low.


Approach Notes:

Beaten path all the way up to Source lake. No snowshoes used - firm all the way to the base and out.

Edited by cbcbd

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inquiring minds,

the northeast buttress is in fun, sporting conditions. we took the left variation and had a ball. the water ice step is fat and plastic. get it before the weather comes!

Edited by kinnikinnick

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