cbcbd Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 (edited) Trip: Chair Peak - North Face Date: 12/3/2009 Trip Report: Dirtbag Packworks and I headed up to the pass to take advantage of this awesome cold snap. The trail trough up to Source Lake was beaten and fast. The North face had many line options and we ended up starting out one left-facing corner left of the usual one which had thin unprotectable ice and was a lot of fun. From the top of that pitch I looked over to the "standard" first pitch on the right and looked like it had a lot more snow and ice. On P2 we trended right and rejoined the "standard" route. The climbing was fun and the conditions were great. The descent gully is a little bare in spots and has some downclimbing steps required. Spotted 4-5 rap stations. Didn't test them all but I'm sure they are all bomber, right? Anyways, get on it. E Face E Face, NE Butt, N Face First pitch Topping out Extremely clear day Gear Notes: 2 pickets would've been nice (we had 1), used one screw (2 would've been good if you do the standard first pitch which has thicker ice), thin and short knifeblades were the best pro I found. Found no nut placements down low. Approach Notes: Beaten path all the way up to Source lake. No snowshoes used - firm all the way to the base and out. Edited December 5, 2009 by cbcbd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unklehuck Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Nice Work. Any thoughts on the condition of the ice band on the upper portion on the NE Butt Route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raoul Duke Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 unklehuck- the ice at the top of the NE butt is fat and ready to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unklehuck Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 RD - thanks. figured it would be so we went ahead an climbed it. Cold, good times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spionin Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 nicely done, doug! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belayerslayer Posted December 8, 2009 Share Posted December 8, 2009 who's up for the NE butt?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtbag Packwork Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 When were you thinking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnikinnick Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 (edited) inquiring minds, the northeast buttress is in fun, sporting conditions. we took the left variation and had a ball. the water ice step is fat and plastic. get it before the weather comes! Edited December 10, 2009 by kinnikinnick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 Update on the north face: The traditional first pitch is in "fun sporting" conditions as well, the rest of the route is cruiser. Go git er dun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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