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dberdinka

Fifty (or more) Favorite Climbs in the PNW

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Guidelines

 

  • One route per person
  • No duplication
  • Short Description
  • 1-3 good photos
  • Spray elsewhere

Edited by dberdinka

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The Sphinx - North Ridge - II 5.9

 

The Sphinx is a relatively small granitic peak located in the remote and lightly traveled heart of Garibaldi Provincial Park. Gettingg there is every bit as appealing as the climb itself and involves a long but straighforward approach through forest, meadow, volcanic moonscapes, high passes and multiple glaciers. The north ridge is a short but highly enjoyable rock climb on sound granite. The climbing gets progessively more difficult and ends with a spectacular pitch of vertical to overhung jam cracks (5.8+). See SW BC Select Guide for more information.

 

Approaching the North Ridge

sphinx1b.jpg

 

 

Mid-5th class slabs low on the North Ridge

sphinx2.jpg

 

The Sphinx & Garibaldi from high camp

sunset4.jpg

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I'd say Grand Wall, but plenty of others will choose that. So instead I'll plug a route I was fortunate enough to do with Blake this year:

 

Fire on the Mountain. Sloan SW Face. 5.10+, 8 pitches. A scenic and easy approach via Bedal Creek trailhead leads to a stunning alpine wilderness area. The climbing is really fun, solid, and protectable. The belays are comfy and the views are excellent. Notably, the route finishes at the top of a very prominent glaciated peak with 360 views. Finally, the descent is straightforward and the route should be dry and accessible for a pretty long window each year. For those seeking adventure, this wall holds more fun lines. Go get some! TR with all you need to know to do the route

scurlock_sloan.jpg

 

 

end_of_p2_yes.jpg

gazing_up_at_p4_fire.jpg

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Davis Holland -Lovin Arms

 

Index Index Index Index

 

First Pitch 5.9 Wet Fun

Second Pitch 5.10 Fun

Third Pitch 5.10 Super Fun

Fourth Pitch hardest for me

Fifth Pitch FUN!

Sixth Pitch Exposed Scramble

 

4342today.jpg

 

4342IndexJune15_2006_158.jpg

 

4342IndexJune15_2006_163.jpg

Edited by Off_White

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One of my favorite climbs not in the Nelson guides is the NE Buttress of Colchuck Peak.

 

Good description in Beckey guide.

 

P1000252.JPG

 

P1000253.JPG

 

P1000254.JPG

Edited by Off_White

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NEWS Northwest Corner

5.9. III

 

I know Red Fred has a description, but here's what I remember doing:

 

Pitch 1: 5.7 pretty chill with some scrambling & rope drag

Pitch 2: 5.9 take the corner all the way to the horn belay.

Pitch 3: 5.9 "offwidth" corner

Pitch 4: 5.9 continue to almost the top (unrope and scramble to the summit)

 

100_1037.JPG

Edited by Crillz

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E Face of Whitehorse. Classic moderate northwest ice and mixed climbing in an exposed, great position to spectacular summit. Probably forms up fairly consistently.

 

6195bb4.JPG

 

6195bb1.JPG

 

6195bb2.JPG

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Mithral Dihedral- Not a very long route overall but man that corner is one of my favorites for sure. The elevation adds to the appeal not to mention views of the highest lake in the states (Im told). Bring a 100m rope to do the corner in one pitch :)(not me in pic, borrowed from supertopo)

Mithral_Dihedral.jpgmithral_fishook.jpg

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You said "favorites" rather than classic, which are obvious.

I'd say east face of Mix-Up. Most likely to get done only through lack of judgment. Relatively solid rock and turf, mainly quite easy. A truly pointless, pleasant route to nowhere if one doesn't acutally bother struggling to summit.

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Mongo for me was the route that I undersold as a classic. It was truly amazing as a climb and experience. It would be very cool to see it repeated someday, but given the remoteness, not a very realistic expectation?

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If I have to avoid Nelson, my pick would be Mt. Assiniboine, North Ridge (II, 5.5) It doesn't have the best rock and the approach on the Gmoser Highway is downright scary, but it is a beautiful peak in a gorgeous area.

 

mount_assiniboine_131.jpg

 

mount_assiniboine_043_2_.jpg

 

mount_assiniboine_027.jpg

Edited by Off_White

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Does Castle Crags count as PNW?

East Face of Castle Dome is one of the most outstanding rock climbs around.

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Back of Beyond Buttress, SW BC Kokapie (sp?) creek drainage

My 1st rock FA, and still favorite (only alpine route i've ever repeated). I miss you Jordan and Kat

3-4 pitches splitter 10b finger cracks on a smooth granite face, 5~ pitches to 5.10 on a clean granite ridge to an unlcimbed summit. F n A

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/136backofbeyond14.jpg[/img]

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/136IMG_1094.JPG[/img]

 

link to the original TR and the cc.com good old days

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/61928/site_id/1

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Salish Peak - Flight of the Falcon

 

Long enough to feel like you climbed something, short enough to not require climbing with packs or boots. Beautiful area, shortish approach, and a peak you wouldn't otherwise bother with. And a cunning line up a steep aspect on the peak's stellar granite.

 

Salish Peak above the Roan Wall

 

106368900_large_680b24.jpg

 

Starting the route, 20' up pitch #1 due to snow.

 

Salish_and_Roan_040.jpg

 

 

Darin having fun! Cant believe we left our beds in Bellingham this morning and are on pitch #14 already...

Salish_and_Roan_041.jpg

 

 

Higher on the route:

 

Salish_and_Roan_068.jpg

 

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Thats a great pic of the whole link up. I wanna do that next year, though from Martha's Place, not car to car like you animals.

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Although I got rained out both times I went to climb Roan/Salish, Martha's Place is an awesome bivy. There's two bolted routes on the bivy boulder as well!

I'll be back.

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Salish is an amazing climb. The rock quality is top notch and the scenery is just incredible. Definitely one of the top ?10 alpine rock climbs in Washington. "animals" ha! I don't think that adjective has been attached to my name before.

 

Come on people, gene, offwhite, all you sprayers, post up! Nothing wrong with a little on topic content.

Edited by dberdinka

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