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RuMR

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OK by me. I prefer having lots of pro. I liked IB, especially the last 3 pitches with the great air. And Cond Addict. And the new 8 pitch one up the NF Teanaway. All cool, safe, and fun. Well, parts of IB maybe not so safe, especially when pulling rope on descent, thereby knocking rocks all over the route.

 

There is a establish climb up there???? Does anyone know more details about it?

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OK by me. I prefer having lots of pro. I liked IB, especially the last 3 pitches with the great air. And Cond Addict. And the new 8 pitch one up the NF Teanaway. All cool, safe, and fun. Well, parts of IB maybe not so safe, especially when pulling rope on descent, thereby knocking rocks all over the route.

 

There is a establish climb up there???? Does anyone know more details about it?

 

Yes, there is, completed late summer. Start about .2 miles from the NF parking lot (Ingalls Lake, Esmerelda Basin, etc TH), on the right. Large pullout on the left. Hike up right on right side of large gravel wash area 15-20 minutes and thru talus field to largest tree at base of rock. 1st pitch starts left of tree a ways. Part of your adventure may be finding this, although when the sun's right, you can actually see some chains from the road (barely) and the glint of metal hangers here and there. Goes from 3rd class to 5.9 in 8 pitches. After pitch 6 hike left maybe 100 feet or so, looking at rock on the right for bolts (5.8), then great stellar 5.9 final pitch. Not well cleaned throughout. Helmets mandatory. We did car to car in 3 hours. Single rope rappels (60m) make for a fun and fast descent. It's a cool, largely scrambly route with some exposure in places. Very moderate feel. Courtesy of Leland and Dave Wolfe.

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"...when the sun's right, you can actually see some chains from the road (barely) and the glint of metal hangers here and there."

 

Pathetic.

 

...Pope said from the road as he tied his EBs to his swami belt and headed up hill to free-solo another sick test piece.

 

Doublethink: the act of simultaneously accepting as correct two mutually contradictory beliefs.

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