tomtom Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I thought the point of climbing was to have fun, not to achieve grades (or complain about them) or win competitions. Oh, and Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 All these guys have familys, careers and lives. And they (and their families) all had to come up with the requisite dedication as well as organize their priorities in life in order to maintain that level of climbing. It's not like it just happens - at any age - particularly not past 35 with those families, careers, and lives. People do it, but don't kid yourself, the five year attrition rate in climbing is still enormous across decades and such older climbers really are the last men standing at those grades. You look around here and guys are bitching about bolts and sport climbing like it's still 1984. Yeah, it's like bitching about bullets and Buffalo hunting like it's still 1824... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 How about Mark Hudon just sent the Nose in 15 1/2 hours, oldest guy to do Nose In A Day (NIAD) at 54. I think there are allot of strong older American climbers, but you got to have the mullah and the drive BOTH to make it happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I did a post on Mark's ST thread reflecting on the challenge of lining up motivation, discipline, and experience for such an endeavor. Two out of three won't cut it. That trifecta is not easy to muster and the inability to come up with it is what leaves 99.9% of folks on the ground looking up wishfully thinking about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky_joe Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Does it really matter if the Euro climbers are sending 14a in their sleep and 14d on their 60th (or 13th) birthday? Their grades are probably soft like buttery croissants anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 How many 60 yr old guys are still crushing it in the greater ranges? Probably less than are doing sportclimbs. Maybe that tells you which discipline is tougher? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I dig it Shit man I'm all about training and working hard and making lifestyle sacrifices to get better but giving up eating and drinking beer just to get another letter grade, that's just geh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I dig it Shit man I'm all about training and working hard and making lifestyle sacrifices to get better but giving up eating and drinking beer just to get another letter grade, that's just geh. maybe they have more fun and satisfaction from hard sends and personal improvements, then from getting drunk and complaining how getting old sucks. It's about choices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Conway Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 (edited) I dig it Shit man I'm all about training and working hard and making lifestyle sacrifices to get better but giving up eating and drinking beer just to get another letter grade, that's just geh. maybe they have more fun and satisfaction from hard sends and personal improvements, then from getting drunk and complaining how getting old sucks. It's about choices. or maybe they can't get laid anyways Edited November 24, 2009 by Hugh Conway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 How many 60 yr old guys are still crushing it in the greater ranges? Probably less than are doing sportclimbs. Maybe that tells you which discipline is tougher? Actually a lot, from home turf I can think names like Swenson, also Child. Then you have the whole Patagonia crew from Italy, all these guys are over 50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I mean really, 99.9 % of climbers are going to improve by climbing and working out more not by completely abstaining from beer and food. If you are uber elite sporto climber and you already train and/or climb all day, you can probably milk a bit of improvement by starvation diet, but who here does that really apply to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 MUST. TRAIN. HARDER. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 short term diet fixations versus long term, sustainable health and fitness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spore Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Everyone Climbs for diffrent reasons & everyone Climbs in the range there happy with. Look up to who you want, But you better damn well be happy with yourself. Now go Climb ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Good post but I'd be happy climbing in a bit of a higher range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 24, 2009 Author Share Posted November 24, 2009 have you seen this one, rudy? http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=36962 old grampas pull down in eurotown. we're still arguing about whether it is ok to hangdog, place bolts on rappel, yada yada. meanwhile, euros are out pulling down. we all need to just go climbing more. E X A C T L Y Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 24, 2009 Author Share Posted November 24, 2009 Does it really matter if the Euro climbers are sending 14a in their sleep and 14d on their 60th (or 13th) birthday? Their grades are probably soft like buttery croissants anyways. yeah...sure , wait till they get a taste of AMERICAN 5.11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky_joe Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Does it really matter if the Euro climbers are sending 14a in their sleep and 14d on their 60th (or 13th) birthday? Their grades are probably soft like buttery croissants anyways. yeah...sure , wait till they get a taste of AMERICAN 5.11 American 5.11 is better than French 8c just like American cheese kicks the shit out of their moldy lard wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Conway Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Does it really matter if the Euro climbers are sending 14a in their sleep and 14d on their 60th (or 13th) birthday? Their grades are probably soft like buttery croissants anyways. yeah...sure , wait till they get a taste of AMERICAN 5.11 American 5.11 is better than French 8c just like American cheese kicks the shit out of their moldy lard wheels. French girls vs. American girls.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Does it really matter if the Euro climbers are sending 14a in their sleep and 14d on their 60th (or 13th) birthday? Their grades are probably soft like buttery croissants anyways. yeah...sure , wait till they get a taste of AMERICAN 5.11 American 5.11 is better than French 8c just like American cheese kicks the shit out of their moldy lard wheels. French girls vs. American girls.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gertlush Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Stevie Haston is a monster... I feel kind of sad for these people though that they spend so much time & sacrifice training for some sport route. I'd be curious to find what motivates them.. I've tried sport climbing & after the 10th gang bang on some route I just don't see what the attraction is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimmo Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 And they (and their families) all had to come up with the requisite dedication as well as organize their priorities in life in order to maintain that level of climbing. there's some of that, but not necessarily as much as your post seems to infer. it's not like you need to drive out to the crags and while away your time to improve (or maintain); I personally MUCH prefer training, at home, close to family, instead of sitting around the crags all day with my fellow orangutans. And once certain levels are achieved, it's way easier to (vs initial improvement). i personally think that once you've hit say 5.13, an hour of the right things every week will keep you there (assuming you don't bloat out and gain a buncha weight). It's not like it just happens - at any age - particularly not past 35 with those families, careers, and lives. People do it, but don't kid yourself, the five year attrition rate in climbing is still enormous across decades and such older climbers really are the last men standing at those grades. see above. i think perception of situation has a ton to do with it. i know a few climbers who dropped the game when the 30's came around, with jobs and families, and suddenly they didn't "have time". well, they didn't have time to hang out at the crags all day like they used to, but they certainly had plenty of time to stay fit and even improve, if they wanted to , or knew how. personally, i'd way rather be siked about training and exercise than wasting an hour a day in front of the tube or whatever other time-wasters i might be engaged in (cascadeclimbers?). like i said, it doesn't take that much time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimmo Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 short term diet fixations versus long term, sustainable health and fitness the two aren't mutually exclusive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Conway Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I've tried sport climbing & after the 10th gang bang on some route Lots of sex while climbing. What's the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 The people who I described DO climb with the family, there must have been 10 kids at the crag that day. They all take turns watching the kids explore, chase lizards and play. I could not believe they could send with all the racket of kids playing! And for the record they are mostly Brits who would never, never, turn down a cold beer. They train hard and lead balanced lives. Our company has a firm policy of rock climbing tuesdays, don't try and reach them in the office before 12:00. Those of you who own the new Red Rocks guide can check out my boss sending his new route on the Brownstone wall on the cover. [img:left]http://www.redrocksguidebook.com/images/red-rocks-a-climbers-guide-cover.jpg[/img] Last I heard they were off to free Moonlight Buttress. The bottom line is they crank harder than 90% of us and it's completely the norm for the area they live in. Me? I don't climb that hard, but I am imspired by them to try as hard as I can. Sol, you are my hero, let's get together for dinner when I get home! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.