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AlpineMonkey

2009/2010 Washington Ice

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We climbed Rainbow Falls L&R yesterday. Rainbow Right above the chains is getting thin and tops out on bare slab.

 

We drove up the Entiat this morning and checked out McCrea Falls which was melting out fast and very hollow. Large chunks of ice were scattered about the base and we decided to bail. We thought about checking out Banks Lake but the temps were pretty warm so we drove home. Drury Falls looked fat on the way home.

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Got back to that nice little piece just up the road from Bridge Creek twice this week. Thursday, with Dave Allyn, started at the lowest point and climbed SIX pitches, mostly easy, WI2 except for the last which would have made WI3. Dave had never led ice before, but as forgiving as the flow is, we swapped leads, and he cranked his first three leads on water ice. As we exited, heading down to get me to town for a Drs appointment, we noticed above the exit route a SEVENTH pitch that looked longer/steeper than anything we'd done. So on New Years, the infamous Dr. Shipman and I returned to see what the last pitch was like. With the 8" new snow, we missed the first three pitches, but found the fourth, and continued up, also having picked up a "stray" by the name of Matt Hall, who just happened to have tools & poons with him. The three of us climbed pitches 4,5,6, then walked over to 7 and found a nice 100' wall with at least a half-dozen lines on it. Mark selected a nice WI4 rib, which he led in fine style while Matt took photos (apparently what he does for a living!)and I dodged dinner plates (successfully). We rapped the last pitch in fading light, then trundled down to the car, arriving just at dark. A SUPERB day.

As I heard it, the line was first climbed by our own dear RAT, and the first time I climbed it we had Tom HEINZ along, so if Rat hasn't named it, I propose we call it RAT KETCHUP. It must be popular, because Dave and I saw two other parties on Thursday, and Mark and I picked up a third partner today! Anybody have a name for this? Or can we use the one I suggested. If it has a name already, I propose honoring the earliest one.

 

-Haireball

 

This sounds sweet!

Where is Bridge Creek / this climb?

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A pitch is commonly defined as the rock or ice between pitches, making the old farts count accurate,though a little misleading. Some of those steps were only 30 ft. or so, with a total length of maybe a rope and a half, hardly worth a drive up from Mc Minnville for KingsMM. The 7th pitch Curt was referring to was not in the same gully but a short distance to the right and up. It is indeed wide enough for a number of routes, long enough to be considered a real pitch. It's clearly visible as you walk off, I'm surprised you didn't climb it when you were up there. BTW, I've enjoyed you TR's, way to get after it.

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I was up on the ice about 2 miles up Commonweath today. It is deteriorating but still in. I kicked through in two spots and there is a big chunk in the center that has fallen.

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Was @ Pan Dome today.........Ice plastered with a bunch of new snow. Very wet, slushy and not much stoke happening.

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I meant to say a pitch is commonly defined as the rock or ice between belays. I type slow, my mind is slower yet.

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Got back to that nice little piece just up the road from Bridge Creek twice this week. Thursday, with Dave Allyn, started at the lowest point and climbed SIX pitches, mostly easy, WI2 except for the last which would have made WI3. Dave had never led ice before, but as forgiving as the flow is, we swapped leads, and he cranked his first three leads on water ice. As we exited, heading down to get me to town for a Drs appointment, we noticed above the exit route a SEVENTH pitch that looked longer/steeper than anything we'd done. So on New Years, the infamous Dr. Shipman and I returned to see what the last pitch was like. With the 8" new snow, we missed the first three pitches, but found the fourth, and continued up, also having picked up a "stray" by the name of Matt Hall, who just happened to have tools & poons with him. The three of us climbed pitches 4,5,6, then walked over to 7 and found a nice 100' wall with at least a half-dozen lines on it. Mark selected a nice WI4 rib, which he led in fine style while Matt took photos (apparently what he does for a living!)and I dodged dinner plates (successfully). We rapped the last pitch in fading light, then trundled down to the car, arriving just at dark. A SUPERB day.

As I heard it, the line was first climbed by our own dear RAT, and the first time I climbed it we had Tom HEINZ along, so if Rat hasn't named it, I propose we call it RAT KETCHUP. It must be popular, because Dave and I saw two other parties on Thursday, and Mark and I picked up a third partner today! Anybody have a name for this? Or can we use the one I suggested. If it has a name already, I propose honoring the earliest one.

 

-Haireball

 

never climbed it. i looked around that area but that wasn't what i was looking for.

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Don't know who you are, but I took this picture on Sunday morning (1/03) looking up and opposite the Snow Lakes trail head. The outside temp gauge in my truck read 34 degrees. Your sticks sounded solid. Thanks for the show!

 

DSC00957.jpg

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i think that's alpine dave (in red jacket) and his friend zach. we met them in the parking lot at the end of the day, and they said they lapped both carenos + other climbs in the area :)

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I going over from Issaquah early on Friday coming back that night if anyone interested.

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Climbed near Alpental today. It was really cold and stuff was coming back in fast.

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Jens (H.) and I climbed at the (Second?) Millennium Wall today. Several variations are possible, maybe 7-9, Jens led the obvious thick pillar and then we toproped 3 paths to the right. Beautiful day, Snow Creek Wall is far from in shape but it was a little colder. Looks like maybe one more cold day and then a steady rise in temperature. Guidebook claims 30-40 ft but it was almost exactly a half ropelength (100 ft) to the first sturdy tree. Is it just me or do ice climbs seem a lot longer once you're actually on them?

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seems like ice follows the old adage: hard from afar, easy from the belay, hard again while you're on it!

 

Jens (K.) - shouldn't you be teaching delinquents?? :)

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Went out to Chinkook pass before work today...horsetail falls is a falls again. Two-face is only one face however very fun! But also wet. Peakaboo was in good shape, a little thin in the middle but I just picked my way delicatly through it. enjoy it people, because it might not last long!

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Has anyone taken a look at Mountaineers Creek ice lately? Seems like the last update was at least a few weeks ago. Rain and high 30s in the forecast...

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Has anyone taken a look at Mountaineers Creek ice lately? Seems like the last update was at least a few weeks ago. Rain and high 30s in the forecast...

 

Quick Survey of what I saw Yesterday.

 

Mountaineers Creek - Not In - I hiked up there

Rainbow Left and Right - In

Careno Left and Right - In

Pivotal Moment - In

Hubba Hubba - In

Snow Creek Wall - Not In

 

 

Wet & Wild looks great too!, I really want to get on that one.

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Went to L-worth for the first time w/Gene. Was fun to recognize the familiar summertime playground.

 

We climbed Careno Left and Right on Sun. Both in good shape. The whole day was clear, no precip, no sun. The ice was not wet at all, although the Left climb is deteriorating at the top just a bit on the left side and rock is showing (I had to traverse right a bit to not scratch on rock). There is a good piton anchor on top. BETA: On rappel saw a really easy way up staying in the right coner between ice and rock.

 

The Careno Right has 3 columns, left and center are good, we skipped the rightmost one - too short and easy . The columns are largely freestanding and one can look behind, love that. They were thick and solid for screws, a moot point given how short the columns are. Center column is the most fun, alhtough there is a curtain on the left tha could be fun, I just didn't think of it then.

 

We made a 2 "Abalakov" anchor, rapped twice. I suspect there is a good chance the climbs might survive this week's weather.

 

Lastly, I almost complained how poor the area is for ice, but we met a nice trio from Portland( :wave: thanks for pushing the car!), so am thankful for what there is.

No pics, forgot cameras.

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AlpineMonkey is correct, Hubba Hubba is in and phat. There are also two lines to the left of Hubba Hubba central that have 1-2 pitches of good ice.

 

 

 

No pictures, as we were climbing in the fog all day...

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Hubba Hubba left is in nice and fat. The first pitch is WI2 while the second is a fun WI3. Just bring some rock gear for the second pitch to protect the snow cover rock top section.

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I just took a little drive (five minutes from home) to see if all is lost in the rain we've been getting. The Rainbow and Careno climbs are getting thinner but will be back in good shape pretty quick as long as some coldness comes in. One can assume that the same is true for most of the climbs that have been in recently.

 

Poor ice conditions, rain, bad skiing. Thank jesus for whiskey.

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