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AlpineMonkey

2009/2010 Washington Ice

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Out to X38 at 7am and we looked th the route MercyFate recommended in an earlier post - thin at the start but the latter half looks tasty. We walked 50 yards west along the trestle and saw a nice wall of ice at the top of a 100' gulley. The wall was also thin to start but fat up top. Don't know what the route is referred to as but it was 100' of nice climbing.

 

ANyone know if this is in the WA Ice Guide? Pics to come...

 

It is, it's "Unnamed" right of CYA. I soloed it around this time last year, it was fun after the thrutch through the alder down low.

Top out is climbers left on some slings?

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How difficult/sketchy is it to walk/scramble to the top of CYA and string a top rope? I would love to get out but haven't climbed in a month or more, so I don't know that i'm up to WI4 straight off the bat!

 

Alternatively, has anyone been up to Franklin? Is that in?

 

TIA :wave:

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Has anyone checked out the upper Alpental road (Kiddie Cliff area and Source Lake) in the past couple days?? I would think it would be getting plump by now with this cold snap?? Although it will probably be a zoo up there this weekend.

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Was up in the area on Wednesday doing the NF of Chair. There are ice flows everywhere on the pass, many of which I have never seen this fat. Near source there were multiple flows in the ~1 pitch range. Definitely enough to keep you busy for a day.

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Vantage & Quincy Lakes Area

 

Me and my girl went out to Vantage to see what was in and Fugs is definitely NOT in good shape however Frenchmans Falls looked ok but with a big gash in the center and lots of running water.

 

So we cruised to the Ancient Lakes and found this climb in reasonable shape and in an aesthetic setting.

 

[img:left]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p128/512dude/Ancient%20Lakes%20Ice%202009/PC110073CasacdeClimbers.jpg[/img]

 

[img:left]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p128/512dude/Ancient%20Lakes%20Ice%202009/PC110079TchUp.jpg[/img]

 

 

[img:left]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p128/512dude/Ancient%20Lakes%20Ice%202009/PC110088CasacdeClimbers.jpg[/img]

 

[img:left]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p128/512dude/Ancient%20Lakes%20Ice%202009/PC110097CasacdeClimbers.jpg[/img]

 

[img:left]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p128/512dude/Ancient%20Lakes%20Ice%202009/PC110095CasacdeClimbers.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

Edited by 512dude

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Anybody looked at the ice accross the river from that boy scout camp on highway 410 between Greenwater and the turnoff for Crystal? 3 good pitches, and right there in plain sight but you gotta wade the river (not necessarily that big of a deal but it is a river). I could dig up some old pictures of it but this place has been regularly visited for 30 years and I think it is fairly well documented. There is an old newspaper article about recovering a body after the ice fell down on a climber if anybody wants to look for it. One of the rescuers was quoted as saying that the ongoing falling ice reminded him of heavy fire in Vietnam.

 

Climbed Skookum yesterday--done in 2 rope stretching pitches. Good times. Ice slightly funky, but decent pro is achievable. No wading required (this year); river easily cross-able via a few rocks and a butt-scoot across a log. Climb won't last long--go get it.

 

First pitch:

Skookum_Falls.jpg

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This thread is corrupt somehow, as anonymous view I see three pages but as Logged In I see only 2.

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i'm less conerned about the climbing than the gear! if i come home to the Mrs and the 1 month old with a broken ankle i'll never here the end of it :P

 

though Mrs. Selkirk rocks. How many other brand new first time moms would let the other half go ice climbing :)

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Congrats on the little one! Welcome to the rest of your life! :)

 

The gear will be 10s to 13s after the first 20 feet of so, but you can get a good KB down low to protect the opening moves for sure. I've heard people suggest we (collectively we) bolt this thing to make it "safer" but I tend to want to keep it the way it is, as it's really a blast and quite safe in these conditions on natural pro. When there is no ice, the rock is the same side-pulling down-sloping Rhyolite that makes up the rest of Deception, so not really that worthwhile unless iced up.

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chockstone falls is in and super good. All pitches have ice and the last piller super fat, goes at maybe WI 4 or 5. I think we were the 2nd ones to go up it based on tracks in.

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Friend and I climbed Bridal Veil falls today. I've never done it before, so I can't say if it's fat or thin, but it was fun and pretty easy to protect. He was there last year and said it was much better this year. Couple wet spots, but mostly easy to avoid with a pretty straight line left of center. Saw only 2 other people climbing.

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Wow, Skookum looks so much better in your picture than it did when I climbed it last year.

 

Your pic, Dec 09:

Skookum_Falls.jpg

 

My pic, Dec 08:

SkookumIce_015.jpg

 

Dane's pic, winter 2007:

adb.sized.jpg

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Here's Bridal Veil Falls on Saturday, 12.12.2009

IMG_4210.JPG

 

IMG_4216.JPG

 

Here's another step farther up the flow from the top of BVF. It was definitely not in on Saturday, and is probably worse now.

IMG_4240.JPG

 

 

Here's a couple fat lines off the Silver Gulch near Silverton.

IMG_42551.JPG

 

IMG_4260.JPG

 

These last two are probably gone by now, but if we get another cold snap they may well form up again, along with the many other lines in close proximity. Zee and Waterboy nabbed a couple of the new lines over the weekend.

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went out to Source Lake Line today. Pat led the route just to the right of SLL.It was about 3+ to a 4- top out step at the end of route.Then got a TR on the unformed SLL.The piller was no where near to forming as fat as it was last year.But still a way way enjoyable link up on TR and totally dry. DSCN0218.jpgDSCN0227.jpg

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Went out and climbed the Goatee on the 13th, it was in thick! Very fun climb.

 

Tried to climb Grey falls with little luck. The weather was a little warmer. When we got to the first short tier there was a torrent of water running under the whole thing. you could see a few sections on clear ice with water bubbles and the like. We then decided to climb up and around and see how the upper falls where doing and it was even worse. My guess is that this climb is out for a while.

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Climbed Silver Falls at Entiat today with the wife. 40 feet of vertical ice to 1 full pitch of WI2. Muy bueno. No Camera.

 

"What do Ardenvors Eat" look goooood and haaaard. :grin: WA Ice Book says there may be trespassing issues. I don't think thats the case, I don't see any private land around there...Go get it someone. (but take me :o )

 

Heard rumors today that there was a river rescue up the Tumwater. I don't think its tubeing season...Who was trying to get to Drury??

 

 

Quote from Wenatchee world: http://www.wenatcheeworld.com/news/2009/dec/19/leavenworth/

 

that one person was stranded on rocks in the river and another on the riverbank in the Tumwater Canyon.

 

Rescuers reached the two with a boat at about 8:45 a.m.

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Climbed Silver Falls at Entiat today with the wife. 40 feet of vertical ice to 1 full pitch of WI2. Muy bueno. No Camera.

 

"What do Ardenvors Eat" look goooood and haaaard. :grin: WA Ice Book says there may be trespassing issues. I don't think thats the case, I don't see any private land around there...Go get it someone. (but take me :o )

 

Heard rumors today that there was a river rescue up the Tumwater. I don't think its tubeing season...Who was trying to get to Drury??

 

 

Quote from Wenatchee world: http://www.wenatcheeworld.com/news/2009/dec/19/leavenworth/

 

that one person was stranded on rocks in the river and another on the riverbank in the Tumwater Canyon.

 

Rescuers reached the two with a boat at about 8:45 a.m.

 

Nevermind, wasn't them. They sank 5 feet from the shore.

Edited by Valhallas

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Quick Survey of Leavenworth:

 

The Smear, Careno, Rainbow L & R, Hubba Hubba, The Goatee, (gulley climb by The Sword area), and Blast Rock Wall are all in and easily accessible.

 

Entiat Survey:

 

Everything in the book is in, plus more. Don't trespass without asking. Seriously, you'll regret it if you do...

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