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AlpineMonkey

2009/2010 Washington Ice

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Great photos and current condition reports, it's difficult holding back - Washington ice is so elusive one can get into some pretty thin stuff this early. You just have to be ready to strike when it's ready - climb safe.

:yoda:

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Trog,

 

Last year Alpinfox and his crew climbed it but I believe they said it still was hollow at the top...and that afternoon there was a huge hole in it.

 

Paramagic,

 

I'm going to head up there tomorrow. I'll take pics and report back.

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I go by it every day on the way to work... I just noticed this morning that it was beginning to really fill out, big difference even from a couple days ago... I will also try to take pics tomorrow if I'm not too early for decent light, just in case you can't make it Kevino.

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Exit 38 crag is all in.for a while anyway. Route on left is fatter then last year.

Then lots of fun toproping to the right.3 seperate linesDSCN0141_1_.jpgDSCN0152_1_.jpg

this crag is so good when its in

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Chinook Pass Ice Conditions from 12/8....

 

Quick report: climbed horsetail falls a couple of times, primarily hooking and stepping...ice was thin with water running behind, but still climbable. The other climbs were too thin and getting direct sun (two-face and peakaboo). Union Creek falls is too much running water. Instead I climbed up the drainage to the right and a short vertical step to some more ice. Beyond the main falls there seems to be another decent flow coming up from the creek. Enjoy!

 

Horsetail Falls

DSCN0946.JPG

 

Peakaboo:

DSCN0944.JPG

 

Two Face:

DSCN0945.JPG

 

Great ice, great weather, great day!

DSCN0948.JPG

 

Union Creek Falls - is this what it was like when Will Gaad climbed Hunman or whatever that big one in Canada was?DSCN0953.JPG

 

Ice to the right of Horsetail that I climbed

DSCN0956.JPG

 

Washington Mixed!

DSCN0959.JPG

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MF-- Where abouts at X38 is that ice setting up?? I know of a flow above the Dry Tool wall, but this looks different.

Thanks!!

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After my previous post I went out and got a couple laps in at umptanum. Its got a lot more ice since I was up there sunday. The actual waterfall is good to go with the pool beign 90% frozen. I climbed the drip but its pretty thin in the middle. The gulley and mini-ampitheatre are also good to go. Sorry for the crappy pictures:

 

DSCN0969.JPG

 

Funky waterfall ice:

DSCN0968.JPG

 

A little alpine stoke on the drive back to my house:

DSCN0970.JPG

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went out to Exit 38 again today. this is the icy wall you see from the highway. the far eastern side of exit38.park at big pull out just before east bound onramp.walk side road a little then straight up. the crag was totally dry today no wetness at all.led the main flow on left then TRed 3 seperate mix lines over right,each 30 meter TRs.2 of the TRs can be seen on photo posted a day ago on this thread. when its in like now this place is good!DSCN0160.jpg

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Anybody looked at the ice accross the river from that boy scout camp on highway 410 between Greenwater and the turnoff for Crystal? 3 good pitches, and right there in plain sight but you gotta wade the river (not necessarily that big of a deal but it is a river). I could dig up some old pictures of it but this place has been regularly visited for 30 years and I think it is fairly well documented. There is an old newspaper article about recovering a body after the ice fell down on a climber if anybody wants to look for it. One of the rescuers was quoted as saying that the ongoing falling ice reminded him of heavy fire in Vietnam.

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Alpental Falls

 

Fatter in some places, but lots of running water behind them and sometimes on top. Lead most of Alpental IV yesterday. Someone with more skill, shorter screws and more screamers would have led it in better style. Hitting them earlier in the day means less sun damage. (Drop back into shade around 3pm.) They got fatter from Monday to Wednesday, so I assume the same is going to happen before Saturday. Stuff in the woods, and non direct sun climbs were fatter. Last pic is a few lines we found in the woods left of the falls.

 

[img:left]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyEwWE1AkfI/AAAAAAAAJDw/WWyByu5RtYU/s640/IMG_8980.JPG[/img]

 

[img:left]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyEwVeyzU1I/AAAAAAAAJDs/tQr29fRkVVE/s640/IMG_8978.JPG[/img]

 

[img:left]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyEwUdju_-I/AAAAAAAAJDk/Y_B-OTqb8bc/s640/IMG_8975.JPG[/img]

 

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Out to X38 at 7am and we looked th the route MercyFate recommended in an earlier post - thin at the start but the latter half looks tasty.

We walked 50 yards west along the trestle and saw a nice wall of ice at the top of a 100' gulley. This wall was also thin to start but fat up top. Don't know what the route is referred to as but it was 100' of nice climbing.

 

[img:center]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p128/512dude/Exit%2038%20Ice%202009/PC100071blog.jpg[/img]

 

[img:center]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p128/512dude/Exit%2038%20Ice%202009/PC100061blog.jpg[/img]

Edited by 512dude

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Jeebus. Where the hell is that?

The glorious Mountain Loop Highway - Granite Falls, Washington.

I grew up in Verlot and I think the Mountain Loop is the Shiznit!

Let's go Darin!

:rocken:

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I'm guessing every big grotty north facing low elevation peak looks pretty much like that right now. Think lower half of Big Four, Hall Peak (Silverton Sickle is probably fat along with 100 other lines).

 

Wish I could but every day there's something that gets in the way

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I posted this pic last year:

 

IMG_0993.jpg

 

At the time it wasn't within my weak-ass ice abilities. Thin.

 

Mark Hanna did post a TR last year, and I'm pretty sure that wasn't the first time he'd climbed the headwall.

 

Probably pretty good right now.

Go get some!

 

Cheers.

Jimbo

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