KirkW Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 now thats a troll One of the best I've ever seen. Nice work. Do you have any pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 after only 15 minnutes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KirkW Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/menagerie_11-08_082_small.jpg Moolack looks just like the Menagerie? Thanks for the bolts on Rooster Rock though, I was hanging on them on Tuesday. The Callis route was a good time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 (edited) No offense taken, just another opportunity to whip it up . I am actually a pretty laid back dude, although excitable, loud and sometimes very obnoxious. I am always up for beer. This is a serious offer, Kenny, let me know when you might want to head back out that way if you need a partner. I'd be glad to share a rope with ya when i come out next! I'll bring a half rack of something nice for post climb p.s. I wear a helmet, and I hang from bolts and cams, but usually not a #3 cause there is no way I would be falling out of a hand crack. However, I do not abide hanging from bolts placed right by bomber natural gear placements, in that I cannot budge. good ethic! i'd expect nothing less, and i do the same! except that i fall out of everything Edited November 20, 2009 by LostCamKenny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Checat Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 el jefe, So you've been there? No. Didn't think so As far as the moss misnomer that has kept the crowds away for years (along with the approach) - for the record a well cleaned line stays comfortably climbable for 6 good seasons. Climbs that see traffic (Lost Art, Up on Ped, Zion Train, Knife Fight etc...) haven't had moss in years. If the hoards of bolt loving Oregonians didn't make flagstone such the regular scene it too would be covered in moss again. Its not something innate to Moolack, its innate to the west slope of the cascades. If you don't want moss head to central oregon. El jefe you keep making comments like you've been to the place, which I don't think you have. Am I wrong? Atreides - Moolack looks absolutely NOTHING like the Menagerie! Moolack = one large band of crack climbs. Menagerie = small shitlet towers with little to no continous crack systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Moolack looks absolutely nothing like that. I'd have killed for some huecos and pockets anywhere close to the size of those in the picture you posted while climbing at Moolack. Aside from the odd flat edge, dimple, or divot, your hands are in the cracks the whole way up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 no, checat, i haven't been there. smug assholes such as you won't tell anyone where it is so irreverent assholes such as myself are therefore unable to experience the magnificence that is moolack. lighten up, dude. i was just having some fun with corvallisclimb. he didn't really place any bolts there and i haven't been there to observe how mossy/unmossy the place is. moolack is safe. take a deep breath and exhale, it'll help you relax a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Checat Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 "smug assholes"? I don't flame undeserving people on this site for my own amusement. i don't need to lighten up because i'm not really bothered by random comments made by people that know nothing about the forums subject (moolack, in case people are losing sight of that). Just clarifying for people who are looking for actual information and who don't care for the random poo-flinging and baseless conjecture. I tend to stick to posting on areas I have extensive knowledge on, not just trolling like some Maybe if you hadn't come off as such an a-hole yourself I would have been/would be a little more inclined to sharing the love. There is only one person that I've ever willingly withheld info and that was because he made it clear that Bolting was part of his agenda, which is absolutely in conflict with everything that the area stands for. Outside of that I've never had a reason to not share the area with folks, despite the hot water its gotten me into by sharing with others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 "smug assholes"? I don't flame undeserving people on this site for my own amusement. i don't need to lighten up because i'm not really bothered by random comments made by people that know nothing about the forums subject (moolack, in case people are losing sight of that). Just clarifying for people who are looking for actual information and who don't care for the random poo-flinging and baseless conjecture. I tend to stick to posting on areas I have extensive knowledge on, not just trolling like some Maybe if you hadn't come off as such an a-hole yourself I would have been/would be a little more inclined to sharing the love. There is only one person that I've ever willingly withheld info and that was because he made it clear that Bolting was part of his agenda, which is absolutely in conflict with everything that the area stands for. Outside of that I've never had a reason to not share the area with folks, despite the hot water its gotten me into by sharing with others. Speaking of sharing, is Tim Olsen putting this in his upcoming guidebook revision? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 people who threaten to chop long-established routes are hardly undeserving of being flamed, just as people who threaten to place bolts at moolack can expect to have info as to that crag's location withheld from them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 O.K. boys, we all know it is rainy and the bull shit weather means we are all at home drinking R&R in our boxers thinking up clever banter to post on ccsprayer. Enough b.s. already lets get back to talking about the actual climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 yes, post up some info so we can all learn something about this place. how big is the cliff? multipitch? average length of a pitch? number of established lines? grades? standard rack? driving directions with estimated driving time from, for example, eugene, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Checat Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 jefe - you want the goods - pm me - and remember honey not vineger. BTW when did I ever "threaten to chop long established climbs"? I didn't. I said Flagstone should be kept as is, as a testament to how newer generations can royally fuck up what others did before them, which is exactly what would happen if someone put a single bolt at the Jack. As far as in Tim Olsons guide updates, doubt it. More likely to hit one of Orton's. I have good reason to believe that Orton has a bootleg of one of the few printed copies of my works, but its a tad outdated (30 something of 60+ established climbs). Mile long band (1/4 of it established). 1 - 3 pitch climbs. 5.10- to 5.12+ but potential for harder. Rack = everything including the kitchen sink (doubles of normal stuff (#00- 4) + 4.5, 5 and 6 cams, sliding chocks, ballnuts, and brass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KirkW Posted November 21, 2009 Author Share Posted November 21, 2009 (edited) OK...so I was the one that was threatening to chop routes at Flagstone. I think it's ridiculous that the local climbing community tolerated it, but I'm not going to piss in your pond. I'm not chopping anything, I am just a total fucking noob spraying on the internet. I don't really give a shit about Flagstone bolts which is why I was on this forum looking for info about the mysterious Moolack. Since then I've realized that the info about Moolack isn't really secret, you just have to do a little digging and ask around. Like I said I'm a noob. As it turns out, CC was a good place to start digging but seriously guys...whats with the bitching, complaining and name calling. I couldn't give a fuck less about what El Jefe thinks of me but he was right for calling me out. I realized I was being the d-bag. Life goes on. Get the fuck over your issues and remember we do this for fun. It's not work. Checat-thanks for all the info. I'm looking forward to checking this place out. Give me a call if you need a belay slave-I don't melt in the rain. The sun is still shining in Corvallis. I'm going outside. Kirk Winkler 541-337-1340 Edited November 21, 2009 by Atreides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 The only problem with Flagstone is the retro-bolting of established runout routes like Hydrotube (that really would not be all that scary to lead with the original bolts because if you fall you can slide down). The grid bolted area around to the left doesn't bother me because it's all easy 5th class anyway (at most, a lot of it can just be walked up), so who cares if there's a bolt every 5 feet, you don't need to clip them all. In fact, I think it's a good area to stick people on lead for the first time, so that they can: 1. Lead up without feeling freaked out 2. Learn the concept of "rope drag" first-hand and realize that they don't want to be clipping every bolt. 3. Learn to climb multipitch sport routes I put one of my friends on his first lead there, and he quickly ran out of draws and was complaining about the rope drag. On his next climb he clipped every 3rd bolt and had learned a good lesson. It beats learning to lead at the gym. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtep Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Mile long band (1/4 of it established). 1 - 3 pitch climbs. 5.10- to 5.12+ but potential for harder. 5.12+? Granted, Moolack is the kind of place you go and can only learn about a quarter of the routes w/o doing a lot of research, I'm only aware of three, maybe four routes coming in at a decidedly hesitant 12-. Having talked to the people that put them up, all of them were hesitant to even give them that grade. What routes have I not heard of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeR Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 Hey Kirk, let's go aid something in the rain. I see more slimy mossy rock in our future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinp Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 Hey Kirk, let's go aid something in the rain. I see more slimy mossy rock in our future. Already tried to talk him into it for today, but ended up rollin solo... He said he had to hang with his gf instead. If ur not flamin u can shoot me a pm and we can go out sometime. Wait? wasnt this thread about Moolack ? no bolts .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 Bump cuz this shits funny and mt hood is not! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrGecko Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 any place other than the web to buy the NWOR Rock Guide which includes Moolack area? Thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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