billcoe Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 This is a copy of a post I incorrectly put on the Rock Climbing thread. do you take an ice tool to arrest in the turf? YW= Young Warriors. "Yard waste", heh heh the picture shows more moss than rock for sure. Of course we carry axes while rock climbing on occasion, but not at Beacon, it's clean as you can see: Joesph cleaned that one off already (right JH?):-) "Clean" ascents have multiple meanings I suppose. Here's Adam on a FA at a place the locals now call "The Arena of Pleasure" once Adam named it (I forget the route name, but he should have utilized "Yard Waste"). It was "clean" I guess (ground up onsight no falls no hangs). You see the axe on the right, but I think he's got a shovel clipped on the left as well. We call those "lead" shovels, and they get discussed much like any other piece of gear you rack up for a climb. They're about 1-1/2 foot long and have plastic handles to keep the weight down. We just put a sling on the handle and rack them with the cams and nuts, usually behind the cams but in front of the biners. I've heard that the axes are carried as much to fend off the bananas slugs, which are rumored to be larger than many small dog breeds around here. I think that's just an exaggeration. You Washington guys crack me up, in fact, ya all remind me of a bunch of Horny sailors who are lucky enough to live right inside of a whorehouse full of girls who happen to love sailors. As such, you are all hitting on it free all the time and just take it for granite granted that's the way the rest of the world operates. (opps, Freudian slip there) So down here we're all living on a desert island (Beacon rock) which the powers that be make us move off of for over 5 months each year so that birds can fu*k there. See, we're legally forced to actually be out standing out ass deep in the water and we can't even touch that desert island for most of the year. Capish? (Italian slang for "Your alternative is death. Do you understand?") We're just happy to hit on any ol' coconut husk that washes up on the beach. LOL! This Jim Morrison work should clarify it for ya all, (I love that Spirit in the Sky song you posted): "Ill tell you about Oregon rock and the big beat Soft driven, slow and mad Like some new language Reaching your head with the cold, sudden fury of a divine messenger Let me tell you about heartache and the loss of god Wandering, wandering in hopeless night Out here in the perimeter there are no stars... Out here we is stoned... Immaculate." See? Passionate. We is out here in the perimeter, and if you guys were here instead of running around the whorehouse full of beauties anytime you want (north cascades/olympics/darrington/leavenworth OMG please don't make me go on this is painful), you'd be hitting on those coconut husks too:-) Hmm, "Coconut Husks?" was that this route name? "Coconut Husks?" shit that sounds familiar....this one?.... It may be "The Gingerbread Shortcut" but it could be "Vertical Mud" though......that may be it. "Vertical mud" sounds right anyway...hmmmm it was just last week too. See how it is? We show up with a picture and get laughed at by our whorehouse living brothers to the north. We're sitting down here waiting for Beacon to open most of the time as the closure is fu*king us in the ass and just totally loving it when and one of you lucky sailors bitches posts a picture of some clean granite splitter that soars for 10 pitchs. this sign actually identifies some of our better areas: So if you come down here to climb, touch base with a local first so that you can have the right gear and not be like some of those idiots who show up with a large shovel on their rack trying to fit in and get laughed out of the county by everyone. (Skamania county to be exact). Sometimes it seems pointless, as if no one gets on it, you're looking at a yard waste pile next time you come back, it grows that fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 good idea bill.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted November 27, 2009 Author Share Posted November 27, 2009 Copied from the very first climbing guide to the gorge: "A Climbers Guide to the Columbia River Gorge" published December 1958 by the Mazamas. Author Carl A. Neuberger "On new explorations it is often necessary to remove quantities of rotten, outer material before pitons can be driven that will hold. A short pinch bar is recommended equipment for such work, and because the of the wind updraughts in the gorge, a pair of clear goggles is also recommended to prevent the dirt that is loosened from such operations from getting into the eyes. It is very disconcerting to be working on a face or in a chimney with one hand while trying to remove dirt from the eyes with the other." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 ...but not at Beacon, it's clean as you can see: Joesph cleaned that one off already (right JH?):-) Bill, are you talking about the first picture above? I don't think I recognize anything about it, but then I'm going senile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 I took rockfall on that route - i think you were belaying me, too, bill... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted November 27, 2009 Author Share Posted November 27, 2009 Oh no, this post was copied over from another thread with a pic of Ujahn on the 2nd pitch of Lost Warriors. That is not the second pitch of YW. does the YW stand for Yard Waste? that's worse(better) than the Index peaks do you take an ice tool to arrest in the turf? Then Porter later brought over that entire thread as well.... We were all referring to this picture of Ujahn following my on Lost Warriors.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Beatard Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 The route in the first pic is "41 feet of pain". Ironic that Kenny got hit by a rock on what I think was the second (and probably most recent) ascent. Anybody else bother climbing in the arena of pleasure? I could go clean those routes off in hopes that they might get climbed, but all I would be doing is "tilling the soil" for more moss and choss to propagate. Oh Seattle, how we hate you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Ok, got it. I'm a little slow on the uptake - thanks for the clarification... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 I took rockfall on that route - i think you were belaying aiming at me, too, bill... LOL I missed? Hola dudes, 2 dead deer there Saturday..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 2 dead deer there Saturday..... what's that bring the 12 month total up to now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted December 6, 2009 Author Share Posted December 6, 2009 Not sure LCK, as I don't have a calculator handy, but the vultures and Cougars have elected to celebrate Thanksgiving by themselves this year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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