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RuMR

all the things being equal...

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Per se, no - but from a movement perspective, beyond the technical exercise involved, they are very boring, as is chimneying. And the more uniform the crack, the more boring. Sort of like climbing big antennas, same-same, same-same once you have the specific move down. I guess I've never been much interested in 'getting up things' so much as scoping for creative monkeying. Makes me fairly one-dimensional I know, but that's no a problem given I'm never trying to get anywhere in particular.

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beacon climbing ==> does not equal quality climbing...

 

maybe entertaining, but hardly a destination...

 

next...

 

 

Have you been there? That is what I thought. How would you know?

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I'm not interested in that shit pile over index...and certainly not for an extended trip...

 

Joseph, regarding what you are saying, that is what is so special about SE sandstone...it has it all...roofs, tech slabs, vertical crimpfests, overhangs, cracks, yada yada yada...

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Can't go with you there - I find granite, and especially splitters of any stripe, tedious and boring from a movement perspective.

 

those grapes are spoiled, said the fox...

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Ok, I do have to disagree on Beacon, it's really top notch climbing and, despite quick appearances to the contrary, there's more than enough high quality multipitch lines for it to be a one to two week 'destination'. But this is another case where, for me, I prefer it not be know as such and that folks continue on to Smith, Index, Squamish, or seek out the urban comforts of one of our local sport venues.

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Ok, I do have to disagree on Beacon, it's really top notch climbing and, despite quick appearances to the contrary, there's more than enough high quality multipitch lines for it to be a one to two week 'destination'. But this is another case where, for me, I prefer it not be know as such and that folks continue on to Smith, Index, Squamish, or seek out the urban comforts of one of our local sport venues.

 

as long as you keep only to beacon, i'll continue only with Smith, Index, and Squamish. promise.

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After surviving a number of summers in the late 80's Euro-infested windsurfing scene I can't tell you what a relief it is not to be on the Euro or Japanese 'fun radar'.

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do you guys get a lot of Euros flying in to sample some Beacon Rock?

 

although climbing round euros is quite entertaining and all...

[video:youtube]RM-zsZM_VwM&NR=1

 

 

 

 

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Yep Joe Beacon's a choss pile compared to Smith ect. no one should climber there. Pink is that soft porn?

 

and c.... or index cause i'm so far away from it.

 

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Rudy - I would pick the Tuolomne area. Plenty of good hard cragging and some very gentle backcountry ventures as well to mix it up a bit. Bishop is a bit hot but Mammoth isn't. So much to do!

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that would be kinda what i was thinking, johnson...pine creek is kinda cool, and there's all the high country stuff too...

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would you rather spend a month next summer in

 

a. New River Gorge

b. Bishop

c. Squamish

 

Hey Rudy!

 

My thoughts:

a) sport climbing is cool but for a month trip I'd want more variety.

b) endless endless alpine rock options but beyond that, like dru said, if summer the bouldering and sport climbing in the Owens might be untenable given the heat.

c) a sure fire winner with lots of variety

 

Having said that the other thing that comes to mind is, why limit yourself to one place with a month to play in the summer? Think about 2 weeks in Squamish and the rest in the high Sierra, tuolumne, etc.

In any case- have fun!!!!

 

 

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You could easily spend weeks or months around the eastern side of the Rockies in Colorado.

 

Boulder/Eldorado have a lot of rock. Estes Park is really good. The South Platte would be nice for longer crag type climbs. Heading north Vedauwoo is only a couple hours away.

 

Boulder and Estes are packed on weekends of course.

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Squamish is always there, right next door, available even for a weekend. With that much time, consider driving to City of Rocks for some high-altitude rock work. Then you're just a few hours from Jackson Hole. A trip up "The Big Tit" by any route can be rewarding. From there go out to Colorado (I never completed that segment of the trip because my parnter became distracted by a female which basically ended the trip).

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Ok, I do have to disagree on Beacon, it's really top notch climbing and, despite quick appearances to the contrary, there's more than enough high quality multipitch lines for it to be a one to two week 'destination'. But this is another case where, for me, I prefer it not be know as such and that folks continue on to Smith, Index, Squamish, or seek out the urban comforts of one of our local sport venues.

 

as long as you keep only to beacon, i'll continue only with Smith, Index, and Squamish. promise.

So you'll never come to Beacon, is that what I am to understand? :moondance: You can have smith, take it in every little piece you can - its headed that way one day anyhow! :P

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as long as you keep only to beacon, i'll continue only with Smith, Index, and Squamish. promise.

That's no problem, Smith is one of the greatest choss heaps in the country and I'm not into granite, so we should be set an all fronts.

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Go back to the New --- you know you're dying to revisit it and your kids should experience the place you learned to climb. You'll see half of the people you used to crag with and can always get old buddies to join you for a few days.

 

If it's too hot or you're looking for multi-pitch you can always head to Seneca for a few days.

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i'd worry about the heat and humidity. what do yer kids say about it maybe being 95 degrees with 95 humidity?

 

i'd think about bow valley, canmore area. really good limestone at all grades and angles, and trad stuff to boot. we were there in august, and pretty much perfect temps. hikes, city life, restaurants.... it's kinda got it all.

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i'd worry about the heat and humidity. what do yer kids say about it maybe being 95 degrees with 95 humidity?

 

i'd think about bow valley, canmore area. really good limestone at all grades and angles, and trad stuff to boot. we were there in august, and pretty much perfect temps. hikes, city life, restaurants.... it's kinda got it all.

hadn't thought about that...i will look into it...

 

regarding climbing in the summer at the new...yeah, its hot, but its hella fun...grew up there so i know what i'm in for...really the worst part is trying to sleep at night...

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Be aware that the Summersville police recently imposed a ban on deep water soloing and cliff diving. Apparently they're boating around & ticketing people.

 

Canmore is fun -- really fun, but the rock is choss. The overbolted routes are a great distraction from the run out alpine routes - but the rock quality doesn't compare to WV sandstone.

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