marc_leclerc Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Trip: Leavenworth Bouldering - Date: 10/25/2009 Trip Report: So just when rock season seems to be slowing down my friend Trevor sends me an invite to go down to L-Town for some bouldering. I had never been on a trip just to boulder but I found this pretty awesome, Leavenworth is full of steep problems with real holds, not the endless lip traverses on slopers that characterize so much granite bouldering. Also coming with us was Trevors friend Joleen from Abbotsford. We left late friday evening and drove through the rain of the wet coast to reach the clear starry skies at 8-Mile Camp in Icicle Creek Valley. The campsite was closed so we walked in and set up camp for free, cool bonus! I woke up early the next morning, after reading an amusing thread here on cc.com about Classic Crack I felt inclined to go climb it. After running a few laps on it I went back to camp where Trevor and Joleen were just waking up. We went and got some cofee then headed to the Mad Meadows area where we warmed up on The Hueco Problem, a cool V1 thing... Then I started trying the Peephole as I was pretty warm from running laps on Classic Crack earlier... I couldn't figure out the bottom and nobody there could do it to show me.. I watched a vieo of it when I got back and it all makes sense now, heel-hook the Peephole and pull in tight with your knee to reach into the undercling. But I did top out from the undercling, with cool double heel hooking and techy moves on little crimps leading to a sick throw to the sloping lip, definitely classic! Bad pic of me coming out the bulge on crimps... I also tried The Sail, V9, but I wasn't too psyched on it, its just one move from a low start... so I left after a couple tries. Here is Rich from Squamish sending The Sail.. I laso got really close on The Cloaca, the V11/12 extension to The Hueco problem.. but slipping off the last sloper kept grinding skin off my right hand so I decided to save some for other problems. We walked over to Pimpsqueak next. It's a great V9 that goes through a 2 meter roof. I fell a couple times just getting into the roof but sent it on my 3rd attempt, it's a mega classic! Tim and Rich, two guys from Squamish that showed up also sent it right after me, Trevor got really close too.. he will get it next time hes out there! [video:facebook]187606390700&ref=mf Pics of me on Pimpsqueak when I get them from Tevor... anyhows, we were tired so we just chilled, ate some pizza then went to bed. The next morning we went to The Sword... it is an awesome 5.11+/V3 highball that I managed to flash... We also climbed The Classic.. another fun Highball... then we went to Hourglass.. a techy V7 that Me and Trev both sent... [video:facebook]187105455700 Then we went home... I'm coming back. This place is amazing!!!! I have some vids I will post soon. Gear Notes: Not much Approach Notes: Drive, walk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 where is Classic, is it near the Sword? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TamaraSlade Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Looks like you guys had a lot of fun! I wish I could have gone with! Mabey next time. Great TR! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 where is Classic, is it near the Sword? Yes.. on a boulder right behind the Sword. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 Vids are up now.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJScott Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 nice first trip! sendbot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 yeah, pimpsqueak in 3 tries is pretty pimp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 yeah, pimpsqueak in 3 tries is pretty pimp. Thanks Sol... my first two tries were really weak. The pads were not all set up so I just sampled a few moves and half heartedly attempted the first crossover that gets you into the roof. then when the pads were there I hopped on and sent... figuring out the rest as I went. But Rich and Tim also both sent it in sub 10 tries... so there were three sorta on-the-spot ascents in about 45 minutes wich was really cool to be a part of. and Trevor and I both getting Hourglass back to back in a super short session was really great too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Pimpsqueak looks stellar, sweet TR! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoodrat Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Nice TR...Pimpsqueak looks mean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherri Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 You make that look like a lot fun, and I'm not even a boulderer. Nice work and TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 You make that look like a lot fun ... and easy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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