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  • 3 weeks later...

Received this email from Randy Kline of WA State Parks last week and thought that I would post it here:


Greetings members of the Beacon Rock climbing community,



Thank You


First of all, thank you for your cooperation with the seasonal climbing closure and for the trail maintenance and other work many of you have done at Beacon Rock State Park. Thank you also to those of you who took the time to speak with me and provide valuable background information over the last few months. The Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission is beginning a public process to review and update the 2001 Beacon Rock Management Plan, a plan which assists park staff and park users by providing management direction for natural, cultural and recreational issues in the park. This review will involve an assessment of the climbing management approach at Beacon Rock including an evaluation of the seasonal closure and the areas where climbing can occur.



Public Open House


On June 11, 2015 State Parks will host a public open house from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. at the Hegewald Center, 710 SW Rock Creek Drive in Stevenson, Washington. This open house is an opportunity for staff and park users to exchange information and provide input as we begin this planning process. For those interested, there will be an opportunity to apply for the Beacon Rock Technical Rock Climbing Advisory Committee. The climbing committee will work on updating the current climbing management plan and will provide an information sharing forum for park staff and climbers.



For the open house, attendees can arrive and leave at their convenience. State Parks staff will be available to answer questions, take comments and discuss climbing issues. Stations will be set up to provide an opportunity to comment on technical climbing, bouldering, natural resource issues, trails, camping and day use areas.



Peregrine Falcon Update


As many of you are aware, Beacon Rock is a known peregrine falcon nesting area with a seasonal climbing restriction from February 1st until mid-July. Falcon monitoring occurs during the closure period. As of May 20, 2015, the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW) has conducted three monitoring sessions and determined that Beacon Rock is currently occupied by nesting peregrine falcons. On all three occasions peregrine falcons were observed using the area currently closed to climbing. Based on this circumstance, all except the northwest face of Beacon Rock remain closed at this time. State Parks and WDFW will continue to monitor the peregrine falcons to determine the earliest possible opening date. Any questions regarding the status of the closure can be directed to Randy Kline, Park Planner, at randy.kline@parks.wa.gov or (360) 902-8632.



For more information, visit our planning website at http://j.mp/BeaconRock or the park website at http://www.parks.wa.gov/474/Beacon-Rock.





Randy Kline, Park Planner

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Convenient, what-we-want-to-be-real speculation is par for the course. Objective verification is another matter altogether and that takes several years experience, a shitload of time spent monitoring instead of climbing and, hardest of all, the ability to be objective in order to establish a relationship with WDFW where your reporting will have some credibility and will be taken seriously.

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seems like a mostly positive message - i'm hopeful for the future and will plan on being at the meeting - the issue of opening the section of west-side rock just below the trail before jensen's seems really a no-brainer and a positive thing to focus attention on during the off-season

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Convenient, what-we-want-to-be-real speculation is par for the course. Objective verification is another matter altogether and that takes several years experience, a shitload of time spent monitoring instead of climbing and, hardest of all, the ability to be objective in order to establish a relationship with WDFW where your reporting will have some credibility and will be taken seriously.



And the wet blanket shows it head again.

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1/9/2015 - day #1 - couldn't let a full week of january go by w/o putting in an appearance - thanks kevbone, absentee landlord-ye-be, for getting me on the kick years ago of noting what was worth NOT bitching about over the course of the beatard year


did 3 solo laps last january, but 1's plenty enough for me a year later - the classic approach through the lulls n' roars of the gorge - plenty windless at the lot though, barely w2 conditions, though still plenty chilly - took a dump n' renewed me year pass in 4 minutes, then galloped off for the main show - cold n' darkish but good enough and done in a saintly way, me pious n' piss skert in places, but nothing to really worry about


a long rotation home - holy shit i wish the whole year could be so balmy :)


1/21 - day 2 - VICTORY!!!


not that i ever need an excuse to get me some bacon, but today i was compelled to put in an appearance at the skamania court house - larry the tool (you know, the new one who was a lot like the old one?) saw fit to write me a 138$ ticket last november for getting back to the devil an hour after dusk, as apparently the current regime wants to say that's the same as bivying or doing a midnight ascent - don't know what the new feller was all butt hurt over, maybe it was just the shame of having to be bailed out of a bad spot last summer after his incompetence made itself plain before the very people he aspires to lord it over?


anyhow, i asked for my day in court and had a capital time today seeing justice in action - took a half day off and got good enough weather for a quick stop at beacon- gabbed w/ old man jeff n' coastie adam about the gubimint - they then were off to see what those rat bastards have been up to over on the what-have-you lately - i romped down to the base for a solo in street shoes n' shirt n' tie up the first half of the first pitch - then raced back up to the lot and hopped into the devil and bounded on in to stevenson in time to take my seat


the courthouse reminds me a bit of church - same sad old faces all around - same smell of worn wood and the same deep solemnity suffused through the assembly - the judge was a jovial looking chap at least


sat on the group W bench awhile reading my national geographic and grinning to hear all the cases of my fellows next to me who'd gotten the big dickie from the beacon man since thanksgiving - it was a mort of my fellow 'mericans, and they mostly got their fines reduced and a friendly reminder to Render on to Ceasar What Is..


then it was my turn to take the big oath and do my song and dance - i was delighted to see the Man With The Robe quickly warming to my argument - a decade of getting back to lot after dark with nary a ticket - the custom quite clear: pay yer 10 clams if yer bivying on the rock or doing a moon-light ascent, but never this nickel and dime "yer back 10 minutes after dusk" bullshit


i'm paraphrasing for the purpose of comedy i concede, but the Man in Black basically said repeatedly: "i get it, i get it, the bastards out there at beacon are little bitches, but i can't tell them what to do - all i can do is throw out their tickets, which is what i'm going to do" - SCORE! :)


and then the best line of all: "have you posted about this on cascade climbers? i hear that's a good place to discuss these issues" :lmao:


so anyhow that's how the ball bounced - with a healthy reaffirmation for yer friend and humble narrator as to the virtue of our montesquien machine of government - one hand wacks on the other, eh?


celebrated the greatest civil rights victory of our modern age by gulping down a pabst and sprinting up the trail in the dusk, taking a slight detour into the weeds after my hat got blown off my head at the top of uprising - then it was back to the big city and a union meeting


in closing, if there's anythign serious to discuss here, what think you to a nocturnal version of the annual 30$ park pass? i'd easily get 30$ of night climbing in each year, plus be protected against this penny-ante crap


1/25 - day 3 - a day to die for - the circle complete - beacon set to close up shop for a mighty long season but fate vouch-safed to chuck this plum in a poor fools lap before it could sling off into spring


'twas a week for settling old scores - my court-date a comely kick-off, it was time to finish the climb adam and i had started that ill-omened late autumn day - we'd bailed from 2 pitches up, having to leave a tangle of biners and webbing to make the 5 lbj-era bolts up there work - hate to let a year go by w/o climbing jensens, and lordy didn't the stars align to reclaim the gear and get lit like a lord in doing so


first it was me n' adam on the list - then it was me n' adam n' goeff - it grew then to the 3 of us n' bryan too, then finally even fucking mike was coming out of his homo-biking hermitage to have at it w/ o - a 5-spot for fortune n' fleeting greatness


started poorly enough - me n' mike sitting at the b.k. for a good bit waiting for the assembly of demi-gods to gaggle together - eventually bryan and goeff showed a half hour late but i didn't mind - heavy fog in camas but frequently giant flocks of geese would go raging by above, gaudy as ghosts, gallumping off north - we gave adam 3 minutes to arrive then called to discover he was still snoozing in bed - damn, my cheap oregon smokes were in danger (and shit, i never did give that boy his 5-spot! remind me when next we meet, hear?)


sunny on the south side but a bit of a breeze - quite the clown-fucking convention we had to contend with - eventually we got it settled - geoff lead p1 whle mike belays and bryan and i get to guzzle beer and recollect it as recreation



geoff got his redemption for shitting between the sheets last month in a steel breeze - mike followed then bryan - adam was there by then, and goeff chucked down the other end of a 70 as bryan was climbing so i could send up another line and the li'l dawg - bryan cast off on p2 as i started jugging and i had a penthouse view of him slip-slidign away on the awful slippery lichenated stone - i had some gut-chuckles w/ the boys n' a butt too as we buttoned-up against the breeze, then bryan was there and i went on up to him to help out in getting An Anchor For a Modern Era


bryan was over his dream of repeating a free-ascent of the money pitch and suddenly i found myself delighted to get that pithy peach - adam was still on the ground, connected to us w/ a 70 - geoff came up on the new anchor as i launched into the incredible start that is jensen's 3rd pitch


just starting the 11a crack on a blind placement




time went by - jim and bill arrived below - lichen populated my eye-balls - the laughable # of 3s, 4s, n' 5s i had got whittled away and then i was there - bryan followed, panting in the odd hibernal-heat as he made the pillar-top - he rested and sorted as geoff followed then was off lickety-split, ending up aiding plenty of the pitch


mike jugged up in a jiffy n' got a spiffy pano




need to put a decent anchor in the lower nothc of jensens as i was a wee bit unhappy in my pee-pee places to see what had been holding me from flying through the sky down to the sea - an ocean of ants, the fould reek of formic acid exploding on the scene - frogs creek n' croaking, the whole world in wonder at the folly of winter with her guard down, panties askew and napping :)


suddenly we were all at the railing w/ jim n' hogsheads of tourons trundlign up down and all around - butts n' beers n' bullshitting and a fine heady-brew of homo sapien comraderie - the parking lot in the dying lot - pbrs n' pleasant conversation as adam went down to fetch the what have yous, then we set our sights west and went back to being ordinary men :)


poor adam - he ripped 50 feet of poision oak cables out of lay lady lay and the vicinty w/ not even gloves on his hands - he'll be in intensive care till next christmas i fear :noway:


1/26 - day IV for the annum - 2nd corner lap of this crisp season too - a warm night of good vibes after yesterdays jensens gang-bang - peanut noodles n' kids games, tv on the couch and a soft slink off to slumber covered in cushions


monday off for grading but i'd binged and purged friday night to get that dispatched - a sound sleep-in after somnambulating upstairs this side of dawn - book reading in the bright fog outside my bedroom window - the simple life of simon peg sounded n' sorted out before i need to take the first dump of the day :)


bacon w/ the kids, math-book bound though they were - a bit of wine n' honey and off i was down the sacred highway - beacon not near so balmy as so soon ago - a filtered light came greyly through the high cloud murk, the airs light and limp and heavyish with dampness


a couple on the corner already but i breezed by at tree ledge - read an old translation of beowulf on the party ledge and nursed a beer, then up and out via the ridge - more beer n' book by the pin in the last bit of direct sun that could be brought to bare there - croc-shod i clamber up to the trail and the site of former students, their names not recollected till i was several switchbacks further down


the long binge home w/ a 3-buck hat pulled low down where my eyes glim - the sun's near set and i sweat not to see the last part of this annual campaign ably dispatched :)


1/29 - day 5 - wholly shiite muslims, 5 days of fine beacon climbing in the king-of-winter and 2 more days left in the month n' fine weather forecast for each'o'them too! - my 3rd solo lap of the year


beautiful balmy thursday - the sun bright through the window of my classroom trailer - had no thought of beacon but by noon the desire-burn was bright - an annual bit of adjudicating upon the appeals of the absent in the afternoon, then that dispensed with, a desperate rage down the road into the sudden howling winds of the gorge - where did that wicked wind come from? it was so sweet before - like another fall of man, the ledger long unbalanced, the measure made right with the meat thrown against the wall


two ladies rambling up the trail as i lounged down after a frenzy of dressing n' dandyning meself up decent for the big blow in the parking lot - 2 more fellows earning the Ascent of the Day on young warriors, deep in shadow and bounding up unabashedly despite it


the breathe of the lord upon me - only the penitent man will pass - my doom diverted for now, i made my way up the windy hill and rumbled on down soon thereafter, my soul done up and ready for glory to the heavenly tune of tom waits' "come on up to the house" :)


my quotidian quote n' a personal favorite, a t.j. classic: "calamity was our best physician"


1/30 - day VI (holy fawk, did i really just hear the nfl's throwing in the fucking towel on latin numerals?!? jesus fucking fuck fuck!)


a rare auold junuary, the right kind really - 1 more day of winter afore the winter avalanches in n' shuts the cliffs for the fornication of the falcons - mike's after 3 - beers and bullshit'n on the way in - breezy for sure, but not batshit-so


adam in the lot - we ambulate to the base in the big wind and Walk Around the Issues :)


who can't love this life, it passes so even as you piss away the dregs of yesterday?






closing day 2015 - 7th day out at beacon this year - foggy and chilly-chilly at home in the dawn, lately dusted off from the couch - the boys at the b.k. soon thereafter - into the gorge the wind gathers wicked force - cruising w/ cold fingers, we fumble on up the rest the corner ducking and dodging through the plaid-man


the rest of the day rightly desposed, beer drinking and fucking around on the sunny side where the wind ramped up beyond all expectations


and so the sun sets on the southside - we shall see it soon enough i wager :)


2/22 - Dia VIII - sunny sunday - predictions for Big Wind but it wasn't really there - a weekend w/ the brudder n' family big n' small on saturday, also biking by the shrieking birds w/ the chilluns - a sound sleep-in - bacon n' eggs n' toast n' streaming sun through the windows - my beer gut hated upon by my helpless forebears :)


the plan was for a solo of pitch 1 of THE WORLD FAMOUS STONE SOUP - binged n' purged on the big orbit in after noon - racked up in the baby breeze - big flakes down the past few months, the bric'a'brac of busted trees all around - scooted up to the pin n' remembered rather drunkenly you need a pretty-durn big cam just there that i didna have, so after a come-to-jeebus session of thrashing around on untrustworhty shite i rapped off that n' a bit of booty, cleaning as i went


allright, looks like i have a reason for living come monday afternoon :)


roamed around the base abit w/ friendly pbr's n' saw steve up high on the spring routes, n' fir-krissakes, how's that good-ole'boy always manage to be climbing w/ a girl? :P


2/23 - 9th bite of bacon for 2015 so far - darted out soon after the final school bell to rescue my bail gear on stone soup from yday - a much easier pitch when you have the proper gear :)


about 30 minutes from ground to the 1st anchor - the 2nd pin came out in my finger-tips but it never was all that necessary - suuuuure hope the same knifeblades on pitch 4 are in better shape this season - need to actually carry a hammer next time i ramble on up there...


3/4 - day 10 - took the day off to do some union agitating but it abated soon after noon - winged it out to beacon and got another solo lap on stone soup in despite my snot-filled senses wrecking my equilibriums :)


full spring in the fucking first week of march, the world flipped on it's frack'n vernal maidenhead :rawk:


Beware the Ides - day 11 - beware indeed for it was a day of woe stacked on woe - started amiably enough, a good sleep-in to the dull roar of rain outside the open windows (what a joy of summer to have come so soon) - met geoff at 9, gusts of raining galling the rain-wracked parking lot - our plan was siege tactics, always dry despite the worst the weather can offer


geoff got lap 1 and misfortune 1 of the day for me was some odd bit of grit creeping in my open eye and progressively offending me w/ every passing minute - within 2 hours i was almost blind - got my lap in and even moved onto the other unnamed wonder under the roof (starts on the headspace bolt but goes right thereafter) before the combination of continuous crying and sketchy hooking sent me home


geoff drove the red devil to camas at least, and by then the predicted wind had whipped up something fierce, him dodging downed trees n' sizzling power lines the whole way back, me keening n' cursing my old-skewl god's condemnation - my leg back to home was classic - one eyed, finger-pushing the offending orb into its socket to gain its pain-surrender, swerving out of the way of every wind-blown, coursing sprig of cedar, ignorant n' uncaring of the 3rd dimension - woe #2 on the arrival, the big breeze succeeding in blowing down 2 of my 4 backyard fences, to much horror to handle n' for certain the problem of the future - the rest of the day couch-bound n' crest-fallen, fresh-showered n' well sodden...


5/3 - day 12 - off my pace for the year - too busy doing other cool things - a trip to tower rock - union agitation on an increasingly grand scale - a week in red rocks and city of rocks


today was stone soup - went extremely smoothly - bryan did p2, which i still haven't led since hurting myself on it last year - i was sorta dreading p5, with all of its fixed funky knifeblades, but they all held, so i reckon it's all good?


anybody know what's going w/ the evergreens in the gorge? am i crazy or does damn near every pine near beacon show serious blight right now? tons of brown on most of the trees for miles - looks likely to burn like mad this summer if it continues.


5/9 - day 13 - way off my pace from last year


weeks on end it seems union bidness dominating my thoughts - so sad, prime weather for poaching


saturday at noon - the revenge rolls into a sun-soaked parking lot as i make parley w/ long-passed students


n side climbing - love all dem new routes - we do one n' enjoy life - a foolish rap back down - jim gib-jabbering soon therafter - a quick run up the alpine route and we top-route the shit 'round stone soup


the summer soon upon us - what fool sets this sorta shit aside? :)

6/11 - day 14 - seniors on the wing, graduation goes off tomorrow - an easy day of dispensing w/ the care-taker tasks before summer - practice walking w/ a pack of restless fools :)


out to beacon for the big what-have-you - pulled in for some soloing-aiding on the soup aforehand - salvaged me some russki steel on the first pin - nastia says she's american, but her 'biner color-scheme is still solidly russki :)


sudden politicking w/ suds out in godfirsaken stevenson - a good bit of the brethern assembled - lords know what will lay as a result, but let's not worry about that on the cusp of summer - a long orbit back, w/ a big semi-wreck sending my addled self of a disastrous detour


ah, the simple time of summer is soon :)

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  • 4 weeks later...




Thank You


To those who were able to attend our June 11, 2015 open house in Stevenson and help to make it such a success. The feedback we received is a great start as we work towards improving the experience for all the climbers who use and love Beacon Rock. Thank you also for respecting the seasonal closure of the south face. Because of your cooperation four healthy peregrine falcon fledglings will soon be leaving the nest site and, based on this circumstance, the south face will open on July 15th.




Next Steps


State Parks will be appointing a Technical Rock Climbing Committee to assist us in better meeting the needs of climbers. The role of the of the committee will be threefold:




· Advise State Park staff on matters related to climbing and climbing access (i.e. trails);


· Act as an information distribution point for all who climb at Beacon Rock;


· Promote transparency and work to provide accurate information to climbers regarding seasonal closures, closed routes and trail work opportunities.




An application form and information on the climbing committee is attached. The application is a Microsoft Word document and can be filled out electronically and emailed to randy.kline@parks.wa.gov. Responses can be provided directly on the Word document or typed into an email. The deadline for application submittal is July 31, 2015 and State Parks anticipates that the first committee meeting will occur in late September. Also attached are the results from a climbing/bouldering questionnaire that was available at the open house.




South face of Beacon Rock opens on July 15


As many of you are aware, Beacon Rock is a known peregrine falcon nesting area with a seasonal climbing restriction from February 1st until mid-July. Falcon monitoring occurs during the closure period. Based on the last State Parks/Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife monitoring session held on July 2nd the last of the juvenile peregrines will soon fledge from the nest and State Parks will be opening the south face to climbing on July 15th.




Any questions regarding the climbing committee or the status of the closure can be directed to Randy Kline, Park Planner, at randy.kline@parks.wa.gov or (360) 902-8632. For more information, visit our planning website at http://j.mp/BeaconRock or the park website at http://www.parks.wa.gov/474/Beacon-Rock.








Randy Kline, Park Planner

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What does it mean to be on the Beacon Rock


Climbing Advisory Committee?


 The committee will include representatives from all the types of climbing


occurring in the park


 Meetings will take place at the Beacon Rock State Park office


 The committee will be comprised of up to ten members


 The committee will operate through consensus based decision-making


 The first meeting will be held in late September 2015


 Committee members will be responsible for updating the local climbing


community on Beacon Rock climbing issues


 Committee members will assist State Parks in understanding local climbing


issues and concerns


 The committee will advise State Parks on climbing issues such as:




o Overnight bivouacs


o Gardening


o Stabilization of holds


o Chalk use


o Power drill use


o Bolting


o Route information


o Communication with the


broader climbing




o Clean-ups and trail work


o Volunteer support

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What does it mean to be on the Beacon Rock?

The committee will include representatives from all the types of climbing occurring

in the park

This prospect was THE primary driver for my getting actively involved in 2005. And it was

emphatically stressed at that time by a (then) director-level AF representative

who said [essentially] this:


"The committee definitely wouldn't be made up of Beacon locals, but rather be broadly representative

of the OR/WA climbing community. Maybe one or possibly two locals could be on the committee..."

From my perspective, both then and now, that basically equates to blowing the place open

to retrobolting at some point down the road - sooner rather than later would be my guess given you

guys seemingly now don't have any qualms about five pitch bolt ladders and retrobolted, headpointed FFA's done with

pre-placed pro (and that's 'keeping it real'?).


This committee's actions have far more potential to alter the fundamental nature of climbing at

Beacon than the closure ever did. Kind of ironic to see several years of energy frittered away on the closure when the

real danger is likely to be welcomed with open arms under yet another mistaken and wishful assumption you'll

be making up the committee. Good luck with that as this is now quite likely when the whole adversarial thing is going

to bite you in the ass.

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Don't worry joe I am sure that the first directive will be to replace all the pins with bolts.

If only that were the least of the potential...


But I guess you are right, we shouldn't have a real way of communication, the

suggestion box and bulletin board work perfectly.

Get a frigging grip. The 'point' isn't now and never has been about there not being a committee; it's solely about the

make-up of the committee and the leanings of any majority. Beacon is a trad oasis in an ocean of sport climbing and

it doesn't take a high IQ to figure out the long-term implications of the committee getting adversely loaded.

Even from within the twisted confines of the Beacon Reality Distortion Field it shouldn't be rocket-science to

figure out what that could potentially mean.


And while I know it's a real stretch and distraction clicking a mouse and all, but for about the twentieth time, you folks

should consider looking at the Eldo site to see what real cooperative management between [trad]

climbers and a state park system looks like. But if you do look at it keep the caveat in mind that Eldo climbers

and the park folks have a longstanding, trusted working relationship with the climbers acting in good faith

and above board (possibly because the CPS kept Eldo from becoming a quarry). It's something pathetically

lacking at Beacon (oh, I know, I know, it's clearly because they're all ho's and bastards and everything

is soooo completely unfair to all you blushing, lily-white innocents...).


Again, after all the adversarial shenanigans and endless shit-talking of past couple of years, good luck with the notion

the committee will be made up mainly from within your ranks.

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Joe you act like Trad climbers and different than sport climbers and that they are completely separate user groups. Also you act like there isn't sport routes already at Beacon.


You get a grip and stop acting so old, you remind me of a republican that is still bitching about roe v wade.

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I'm sure that there will be challenges Joe. Hopefully with the creation of a more solid technical rock climbing committee we can better maintain a positive relationship and keep our communication open with park staff and the entire climbing community, addressing issues as they arise.





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Joe you act like Trad climbers and different than sport climbers and that they are completely separate user groups. Also you act like there isn't sport routes already at Beacon.


You get a grip and stop acting so old, you remind me of a republican that is still bitching about roe v wade.





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