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      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

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i feel like where shitting all over IVANs poetry thread :whistle:

naw man, it's kev's thread. i believe he was interested in what your favorite beacon route was - mine's anyone that's currently open :)

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i feel like where shitting all over IVANs poetry thread :whistle:

Don't want to do that, it's basically my favorite stuff on cc and kind of helped get me through the last couple of years.

 

i hear ya, i can't go to the bathroom without a good IVAN read. In fact, when i have to take a dump, i refer to it as a T.S. Eliot...

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i feel like where shitting all over IVANs poetry thread :whistle:

naw man, it's kev's thread. i believe he was interested in what your favorite beacon route was - mine's anyone that's currently open :)

 

i do believe yours was the complete steppenwolf :brew:

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like a bitch, i reserve my right to change my mind at any time and subsequently deny the change :)

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1/15/14 - day 1 - what better way to mark mlk's berfday (and my inaugural beacon ascent of this foul year of our lord two-ought-fourteen) than to "climb to the mountain-top?"

 

the national wedder service promised portentous skies, a bold moon, a hero-ascent, but mike n' geoff n' i settled for much less - cloud murk on the evening drive - a shaft of bright sun at cope horn, than all gone, sucked down into a cloud vortex, a river of moist, cold air motoring on down to portland

 

the rock super slobbery gob-smacked wet n' drippy n' perspiring beads of putrid moss-muck - soon full dark and just cans of flowery beer n' bike-bottles of sweet-wine to pass the time waiting for one warrior-poet-god-king or t'other to Put the Rope up there

 

to the new season and to the storms that will not settle until they have shit all they have to shat upon us! :brew:

 

1/21/14 - day 2 - my first solo lap of 2014 and the first maybe for me ever in the month dedicated to that dolorous diety, janus, the god of fortune n' gaudy expectations for the gaunt future - exam week for these ersatz earthlings, they don't seem to deem it of much import - quaint conversations with a curious few in my office hours, some felicitous graduates even stopped on by, delaying me w/o thought as the daylight ticked away and we dispensed w/ the troubled history of the Temple Mount

 

a savage head-wind on the drive in - not warp 9 mind you, but we've definitely made the jump to light-speed - the big bulk of the durango barely making head-way it seemed - the lot w/ two rides of climbers, and good-ole kenny one of them - i froze as i fumbled into my high-tech war-gear and spritned down the trail, croc-shod, just to stay warm - trees down all over the place - folks bailing down young warriors - kenny n' arent just casting off up the corner, all glistening dry n' clambery after last week's sodden adventure

 

climb 50 feet to a stance - thrust fingers against my bare belly to bring back the feeling, then 50 feet more - blasted through the distance w/ dispatch, eschewing uprising n' opting for the longer exit - both peregrines flapping n' screeching n' flyign off as i surprised them at the top by the pin, me deep under 3 layers of hat, head down and figuring what's the worst case scenario should they dive-bomb me?

 

happy, happy day - 1 month of winter dispensed with and more sun for a good long pull still predicted - half the school year done with and we head for the long downhill that bowls us merrily out into summer in the Big Ditch n' anything else mis amigos can propose for diversion :)

 

1/22 - day 3 - lap 2 of the new year - beacon all alone, nary a soul on the south side - solid grey gloom all day in camas but sunbreaks and inspirations on the drive in, cooled by camels n' a can of rolling rock - cold but much less wind than yesterday, the ranger flag barely flapping - an uneventful ascent n' an easy ramble on down, discoursing w/ a few tourists n' sopping up the views of the dappled river n' dim, setting sun

 

1/24 - day 4 - truly, a january hat-trick, such a stretch of weather so close to our tragic shut-down i can't recollect - warp 5 winds at cape horn, helm's a lee and shuddering at the next road-cut, truly wing n' a prayer conditions on the drive-in

 

kenny's ride in the lot, i crawl into my war-kit n' cast off, scudding down the trail w/ my top-masts unfurled, screeching down the thing before my tits freeze off - race up the corner in the hurricane wind, my hands down my pants every half-pitch, hand-job from a stranger it feels in the forceful breeze - my breath grabbed from my lungs before i can suck it in, panting

 

beers n' butts down by the boat-launch, fuckers passed out in the sweat-lodge again, rocked by the endless gales gusting over from the island - plans to make plans w/ adam n' kenny n' geoff for the what-have-you on hood soon hereafter

 

can this mad season manage to continue? :)

 

1/31 - day 5 - the dying day, beacon about to be banned and gone till the sun of summer grows high in the western sky - i dreamed that this stretch of winter-dry might linger, but it was not to last- rain all week, not a chance of a solo - friday the final desperate hope, the signs all set to be cemented into place - fuck off you unfeeling fumbling freak

 

no partner could i prepare - mike too molested - kenny contaminated - adam all a'hoo - so i drove out in the growing dusk, gunmetal gray all around, a fresh pack of poison n' a wondrous hip-flask of you-know-what - i lusted that i might arrive to an ecological aberration, a monstrous monolith undamaged by the falling damps of late; slut-dream i deemed, and damned so it turned out - the lot besodden n' me too it seemed - no courage at all to contend w/ the dripping cliffs - i settled instead for a romp up the retard trail, rope in tail

 

a pleasant rappel it shoulda been, but my belay device turned bitchy, and i tossed it into the trash-heap after - hurk n' jerk n' force-feed, the 'biner all besmirched w/ rope-shakings - a smoke n'a few-fingers on the ledge, then continued on down, the day dying and the golden globe breaking out in bold shafts of light at the last minute - finally at the base, in the dark, i trod along the way w/ bottle n' soaked in the scene so soon to be denied - up the trail at last, i found the preternatural phucks had already posted their signs closing the fucker down!

 

to summer, may it soon come! :brew:

 

2/22 - day 6 - calm n' chilly - snow in the trenches of the north side - busted burritoes - bad black-ass coffee - a ringing crescendo of a half-baked hangover - siege tactics - lawn chair - hammering - beer(s) n' satan smoke - red rover red rover - calm at the end of day

 

bryan hanging on the big-green-big-boi

siege1.jpg

drippy drippy drippy

siege2.jpg

crept back into the deeps of the glistening cave

siege3.jpg

 

3/8 - day viii - a pre-pour cascade chevauchee - mike, the jovian giant, rides the road to greet me there - weeds and whimperings - a gift of gods, road-smokes - the sodden trail so soon it climbs - waterfalls past whispering volumes - the cobble-stone cliffs a proper place to puff a butt n' down the dregs of harsh ales - rain upon the return to the road - vivian savaging the scofflaws

 

3/16 - 9th day - a sunday stolt - sad rain predicted, but not so grim it ended - geoff at camas right at the crack of nine, me awoke on the couch, gob-smacked, not a few minutes before - reborn in beer stench and debasement

 

went adventurneering - hiking up to the top, then scrambled down to big trees n' fixed a big long rope to a tree, rapped down, conquered n' crooned, then jugged back up - fun times - the big old log sent down 2 falls ago found all bound-up tight to a tree anchor - mental lines drone over dreary block-land

 

later did some adventure rapping down the west side, then clambered back up the alpine route to 3-tree ledge, finishing w/ a funky-sad rap for geoff back down to the ground

 

4/25-27 - days 10-12 - the long awaited hollabahoo - infernal plans pondered n proceeded upon even as mudder-earth pissed relentlessly all over them - friday mike, geoff n' i hike 6 ropes up to the summit, hop the railing, n' fix from there to the ground - bursts of sunshine here and there - the work quickly over and we head over, swingers-style, 3 of us in 3 cars to discover the whereabouts of the secret rebel base

 

a fine evenign drinking all kinds of things as the rain came and went - yer lebowski lebowski, etc, etc

 

saturday not so terrible at first w/ sun and scudding clouds - strangers assemble - the party grows by leaps and bounds - eventually a few of us head off to jug the lines - some wierd spots here and there and i nearly killed unknown tourists by kicking off a few good sized stones - at the summit i drank a beer than promptly damn-near broke my ankle by turning over on it while walking down the stairs and dodging the tourons - sigh...

 

saturday evening too epic to attempt description - dogs n' kids, raffels, ole'opdycke, speeches and salutations, the savage post-amniotic scene splayed out - rain builds upon rain, the beers go deeper and deeper, and soon the day rode out of me

 

sunday really quite nasty w/ wind and sheets of steel rain - a slow stumble-fuck back to the summit after breaking camp n' making our farewells - felt tempted to turn back from the recovery operation at the moment of truth but luckily geoff dissappeared over the edge and it was too late - not too tough to get it all back, thanks to help from geoff n' dave - strong weather once we hit earth, but then the weekend was over and it was time for wine n' school work n' hbo-fare

 

happy 70th old man :brew:

 

may day! #13 for the year (holy sheeit muslims, should i've known that, i'd a been a mit more skert!)

 

lovely wedder, wicked hawt for spring - crunchy moss - many tourons - birds bitching n' circling n' crying all over the place

 

hum along fellow travelers, hum along :)

 

Stand up, damned of the Earth

Stand up, prisoners of starvation

Reason thunders in its volcano

This is the eruption of the end.

Of the past let us make a clean slate

Enslaved masses, stand up, stand up.

The world is about to change its foundation

We are nothing, let us be all.

This is the final struggle

Let us group together, and tomorrow

The Internationale

Will be the human race.

 

5/7 - #14 - a rare may-day 24-hour wedder-window - bright sunshine n' light wind - the river runs full - lions abound, loll n' leap, embayed, the waves lap over them - damn near cock-blocked by bastard choo-choos way back at the dawn of day

 

5/12 - #15 - piercing sun, a soothing, steady breeze, and balmy skies - no time for cheap heroics, just an hour between bothersome obligations - a quick blitz and off i wandered - beautiful, sloe-eyed ladies on the trail, so very nice :)

 

5/14 - day sixteen - hell of an evening for a hike, the lot stale and empty near dusk - a bitter day of bickering w/ the man and waging holy jihad on behalf of my perplexed polity - all is fair in love n' hate, no? :)

 

5/15-6 - days 17-18 - awful bickering w/ vicious bastards across an itty-bitty table followed by lunar ambulations followed by a day of drooling, dumb-founded by dipshits, done at last with a pleasant stroll up a sunny trail into the soothing sky

 

5/20 - number 19 - after strong storms sunday, all is clear and bright and dryish and balmy - a billion boaters sucking up the salmon on the main channel, no doubt the source of the strong salmon stank in the bathroom - the n side in groovy, groovy conditions - peregrines pirouetting n' screeching piss off despite their confusion on which side exactly they have for their private privations - summer's breathe subsuming all :)

 

5/22 - day 20 - strange storms brewing, vexing vapors rise and seethe at the setting sun - a quick run up the well-worn trail and back for politics n' pissing matches before the working-man's day was even done - a mere month till the sweet solstice, then california dreams and soon that southern bitch will be blossomed-up n' street-legal once more? :)

 

6/4 - blackjaaaack! - choking, guttering, drowning in my own bile doing battle w/ these bilious bastards - no space to see, no air to breathe - jesus christ man, the weasels have built condos 'round this mother-fucker they've been camped out here so long. fled in horror in the middle of a meeting and slummed me way out, nipping on luke-warm stale keg-beer on the short cruise. a quick rattle on up, sleazy tourists in tattered tee's abiding everywhere. will it never be dawn?

 

D-Day, 70 years on - Day Double Dos for the Year - geoff rolls into the bk a tad late, all tricked out in his curvaceous corvette, me sucking down rapidly warming swill in the shade and puzzling over my biblical tome regarding the life n' times of that cornelius vanderbilt motherfucker

 

a true rare day, how often do you climb something new at beacon? last year i saw them old fellers working out their labor of love near the spike route and today was finally the day to give it a go - wow, what a wonderfully unusual bit of stone it saunters up - the second pitch the most slab-tacular out at beacon - amazingly crisp and clean rock w/ millions of microscopic curious cross-hatched horizontal lines that make smearing oh-so-sweet - geoff got that lead and suffered for it - i followed and couldn't figure out how not to cheat at one point in wierd pod, feet all askew and off-line

 

we rambled on up to the trail after a sesh at rancho relaxo - those upper pitches so super stupid it's a wonder i do them even once a year - oceans of oak, and me in shorts like i've not an iota of an idea what the fuck i'm at

 

3 days of damned seniors left to suffer through - the rock n' roll types clearing out the pipes and set-ready to start belting out "schooooooooooooool's ooooooooooout foooooor daa suuuuuuuuuummmmmmmer!!!!!!!" :rawk:

6/11 - day 23 - mighty prime - another day of gentle ambulations, alcohol-adled, on the north side on sublime slab routes i'd not yet done - sailed out swiftly in the hms revenge w/ first mate swabbie silverman - fun n' games n' all that shit, up-down-n-all-around - allergy attacks for the lot of us n' shaping out to be a shitty season for the mozzies too ta boot - a sleepy drive home, my all slumber-stupid after awaking in the awful dawn to get the familias on that far-flying plane on back to the old dominion - 3 more work days till we say fukit to the welter-weight blues :)

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like a bitch, i reserve my right to change my mind at any time and subsequently deny the change :)

 

you should run for office :crazy:

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already got me one :)

 

still waiting for the lobbyists w/ the deep pockets to hit me up though...

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just out of curiosity, where did they come up with that imaginary line?

It's hard to see from the pics, but it's formed by the arching left side of the lower great arch; everything right of that is on the East Face proper and you're up under the roofs at the base.

 

On that note,I tried to ignore,...

There is something about the left East Face closure demarc you have a problem with? Please, by all means, do tell...

 

...but the following is a complete fallacy

.

And we won't even get into three leading BRCA members just getting busted for deliberately breaking the closure on the West Face. Surely it must have been a 'scientific research climb' to better manage the resource in the same way the Japanese do 'scientific research whaling' to better manage whales, right? Pretty fucking savvy move given it was the first thing the new head ranger learned about how serious the "climbing community" is about cooperatively managing the resource. But then, hey, I'm the idiot here.

Deliberate requires knowledge. Knowledge requires notice. I'd be curious to know what even makes you think there was a West face closure in effect.

Geoff, seriously? I mean really, that's your play, that it's an unnanounced secret that the West Face is closed? That some fault in the technical definition of 'notice' means someone who has previously been cited for breaking the closure didn't know about the closures because of a technicality in the noticing. That's ludicrously beyond disengenuous; it's fatuous and just furthers the obvious - that you aren't vaguely interested operating in good faith to cooperatively manage the resource but instead chosen to adopt an adverse relationship. From the WSP Beacon website:

Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing, and is considered to be some of the very best "Traditional Climbing" in the northwest. Climbers do need to be aware of where and when they climb due to management restrictions. Only the NW corner is open to climbing year round. The east face is closed year round due to environmental sensitivity. The rest of Beacon Rock is closed to rock climbing from February 1 to mid July annually to protect sensitive wildlife habitat. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.

I know you may disagree, but the WSP has all but apologized for what you refer to as getting busted. The Mazamas, Access Fund, Alpine Club and WCC all endorsed a letter supporting the alleged scoflaws.

What a surprise!!! That couldn't possibly be because we know who's involved with AF/AC/AAC locally and that they're totally indoctrinated into taking an adverse vs. cooperative approach to the issues and the WCC and AF national don't have a clue about what's really going on.

 

...because of a simple misunderstanding (at best)...

Again, specious and disengenuous at best and I would have thought you smarter than to aid and abett this utterly pointless adverse approach - you're just hardening and retrenching the agencies' position with every one of these shenanigans and manuveours as they, and your sole intent, are so completely transparent. You'll never get the closure lifted this way; at best you'll just get the WSP and WDFW to lawyer up which will just further piss them off.

 

So, I am not saying you are an idiot...

We can only hope so for the sake of the plumbing in your house...

 

, but you are wrong on this one.

On the contrived technical basis they "didn't know" the face was closed? Now that's funny...

 

Let the BS continue.

Exactly. I sadly see no end to the BS (and now misplaced lawyering)...

 

 

PS Better scrub your FB and blog of all mention of the West Face closure

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just out of curiosity, where did they come up with that imaginary line?

It's hard to see from the pics, but it's formed by the arching left side of the lower great arch; everything right of that is on the East Face proper and you're up under the roofs at the base.

 

On that note,I tried to ignore,...

There is something about the left East Face closure demarc you have a problem with? Please, by all means, do tell...

 

...but the following is a complete fallacy

.

And we won't even get into three leading BRCA members just getting busted for deliberately breaking the closure on the West Face. Surely it must have been a 'scientific research climb' to better manage the resource in the same way the Japanese do 'scientific research whaling' to better manage whales, right? Pretty fucking savvy move given it was the first thing the new head ranger learned about how serious the "climbing community" is about cooperatively managing the resource. But then, hey, I'm the idiot here.

Deliberate requires knowledge. Knowledge requires notice. I'd be curious to know what even makes you think there was a West face closure in effect.

Geoff, seriously? I mean really, that's your play, that it's an unnanounced secret that the West Face is closed? That some fault in the technical definition of 'notice' means someone who has previously been cited for breaking the closure didn't know about the closures because of a technicality in the noticing. That's ludicrously beyond disengenuous; it's fatuous and just furthers the obvious - that you aren't vaguely interested operating in good faith to cooperatively manage the resource but instead chosen to adopt an adverse relationship. From the WSP Beacon website:

Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing, and is considered to be some of the very best "Traditional Climbing" in the northwest. Climbers do need to be aware of where and when they climb due to management restrictions. Only the NW corner is open to climbing year round. The east face is closed year round due to environmental sensitivity. The rest of Beacon Rock is closed to rock climbing from February 1 to mid July annually to protect sensitive wildlife habitat. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.

I know you may disagree, but the WSP has all but apologized for what you refer to as getting busted. The Mazamas, Access Fund, Alpine Club and WCC all endorsed a letter supporting the alleged scoflaws.

What a surprise!!! That couldn't possibly be because we know who's involved with AF/AC/AAC locally and that they're totally indoctrinated into taking an adverse vs. cooperative approach to the issues and the WCC and AF national don't have a clue about what's really going on.

 

...because of a simple misunderstanding (at best)...

Again, specious and disengenuous at best and I would have thought you smarter than to aid and abett this utterly pointless adverse approach - you're just hardening and retrenching the agencies' position with every one of these shenanigans and manuveours as they, and your sole intent, are so completely transparent. You'll never get the closure lifted this way; at best you'll just get the WSP and WDFW to lawyer up which will just further piss them off.

 

So, I am not saying you are an idiot...

We can only hope so for the sake of the plumbing in your house...

 

, but you are wrong on this one.

On the contrived technical basis they "didn't know" the face was closed? Now that's funny...

 

Let the BS continue.

Exactly. I sadly see no end to the BS (and now misplaced lawyering)...

 

 

PS Better scrub your FB and blog of all mention of the West Face closure

 

 

 

73b9a1ebd28ddf307e56fe92e7080210.gif

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already got me one :)

 

still waiting for the lobbyists w/ the deep pockets to hit me up though...

'

 

i'm pretty sure a deep throat will get you much further ;)

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never woulda figured you for a wine snob? :)

 

 

yeah dude, me and Paul Masson go way back :brew:

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i got drunk w/a mexican dude in the valley had a selfie w/ him n' peter vella, maker of my sacred kal-i-fornian vintage, does that qualify me as cultured? :)

 

i'll start drinking top shelf shit when they get the price closer to 3$/liter :)

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Image_146_.jpg

Geoff, I do get it that you guys needed a play / angle for the court after a making a boneheaded move like heading up the West Face deliberately breaking the closure. But if what you are claiming is that you, or any other person who calls himself a 'Beacon local' or a founding BRCA member, didn't know the West Face was closed to climbing that day then you and I know that is pure unadulterated bullshit and a baldface lie and not even a good one. And, like the Wild-Turkeys-we-had-authority-to-permit-bolting episode, it just makes you look either bumbling, amateurishly incompetent, or plain dishonest to the people who count. I mean, sure, you can convince a judge maybe, and lean on the notice technicality, but do you think the WSP/BRSP or WDFW staff who count relative to the closure are fooled for a millisecond? Seriously?

 

And it's especially embarrassing when you have this up on the BRCA Facebook page:

 

westface1.jpg

 

Again, ill-advised lawyering at best, more of the same at worst. It's a comitragedy that you guys can't see just how much you are your own worst enemy when operating in bad faith and less than honestly. Worse, each one of these successive flea circus hijinks just takes you farther and farther from your stated goals (sorry, make that 'goal' in the singular extreme).

 

P.S. Still admire Kevin for his consistent and refreshing honesty in all this: fuck the birds, fuck the closure, it's all total bullshit and completely unfair...

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looks kewl to me :)

It was totally cool. So was Tokyo Tower and the five days of interrogation; picked the wrong one that time given my buddy Doug Allen was partied up huge for a week in Paris after doing the Eiffel Tower...

 

Sears_Trib.jpg

 

eiffeltower.jpg

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Couldn't have that more wrong...but then that's no surprise and nothing new - carry on with the inanity from afar. And when was the last time you were up something in GoG, Eldo or RMNP? They're right frigging there for gods sake and not closed. Maybe post up a TR or something.

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:brew:51288248.jpg

Couldn't have that more wrong...but then that's no surprise and nothing new - carry on with the inanity.

 

WHAT :shock: no diatribe :crazy::crosseye:

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:brew:51288248.jpg

Couldn't have that more wrong...but then that's no surprise and nothing new - carry on with the inanity.

 

WHAT :shock: no diatribe :crazy::crosseye:

 

 

guess i caught you before you're EDIT… there's the insults, i was worried you were getting long in tooth :wave:

Edited by pink

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