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What do you consider the crux?

not popping a stiffie when vaulting over the trail railing in the presence of the ubiquitous hotties :)

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I ask because I stepped around the bolt on the fourth pitch last week which would make the crux mantling on the second pitch or passing the pitons on the third pitch.

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What do you consider the crux?

The move straight over the bolt on p4 for sure as, given the rope stretch, it would be an ugly fall if you blew it standing up.

 

I ask because I stepped around the bolt on the fourth pitch last week which would make the crux mantling on the second pitch or passing the pitons on the third pitch.

I have the p2 mantle burned into body memory so I don't even really think about it anymore, but the pinned p3 dihedral stops me up short and makes me think it all through again every time I do it.

 

Young Warriors is different. The huge block left of the first bolt is now gone. Who trundled it? JH?

Not me, but it doesn't surprise me.

 

Also more rock out of the left side of the Wrong Gull pillar - can't be long for the world and that pillar is really going to clear a path to the tracks when it goes. Miss it already, one of my favs, but I don't think it's safe to do anymore.

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Looking for a beacon climber for after work this week. Can leave work around 3pm. Looking to do YW or free for all to dasdards to dods.. hit me up!!! I dont care if you only climb 5.3 I can haul you up the corner. Lets climb and swil a beer.

 

Bryan

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Great to see Kenny, Jim, Chris, and Jeremy out at beacon having fun last night. Here to many more :rocken::brew:

 

PSA: I spit all over the SE corner but I think I got most of the one inch tick marks off. Big F U to whomeever put those there. This is no gym, if your GF or BF can't get up the corner without tick marks like tape please do us a favor and dont even put your harness on.

 

Regards,

 

Bryan Schmitz

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Hey Bryan,

Thanks for being a ropegun, I had a great time and it was a beautiful day to get out climbing. I didn't realize you were cleaning chalk off on your way up but I agree with you. If I can make it up that route, just about anyone else should be able too without having to follow the pink route. ;)

 

Jeremy

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Do you remember when there were arrows a couple years back?

Yeah, another case of GF aid and they were a pain in the ass to clean off as were the ones someone scratched into the rock another time.

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new year, new beatard count

 

1/1/13 - day#1 - curiously cold and icy and windblown lap on the corner w/ that powderhound chap, clad in a goddamn gordon's fisherman jumpsuit w/ tight matching-colored gear - wondrous ice-curtain on the slab pitch, under the roofs, and frostcicles on tree ledge - a frozen gully choked w/ gravel up on grassy ledge - sand-storms out on the island, carrying grit all the way across the water to the docks - the boat landing slammed w/ waves, breaking across the ice-clad pier - many tourons on the trail - a fine, quick lap - the first day of Beatardia 2013!

 

 

1/12 - day#2 - strange day - freezing fog on the wakeup, car shackled in ice at the dawn - geoff at the burger king - high-speed jet through the quiet lull of the gorge, the road dry n' gentle - beacon becalmed, all door discipline disregarded - a great gut-laugh at the peach allah had gracefully cast into our laps - i get all the leads down low - consensus conditions S5 (our ascent of 12/21/12 in recent memory a retard S9, damn near pegging the limit of the possible) - challenging lead conditions for sure still, with sheet-freeze all over, slowly peeling off in the relatively tropical conditions - runnels of run-off bubbling underneath the ice - the sun bursting through the clear air - rumbles of gunfire, pap-pap-pap-pap, a militia-action for certain on the oregon shores - slip-sliding away all over from grassy ledges up - glimpse of the bonneville crick draining into the river, all jizzum-milky, the vas defernes of the columbian cock- exited the long way, the Great Coward wending all to Starboard where he could - a walk down all bathed in rays of a riotous golden orb - jim at the base w/ an old boy - oaths and auguries, threats and Aggravated Assaults considered - an easy orbit back through the steaming warmth of the gorge-winter disbanded, if only for a bit

 

1/22 - #3 - annealed by two recent days at smith in the Big Fridge of the bivy site, mornings traversing the phantasmagorical formations of frozen sludge, mike and i had an evening run up the bacon-wand in a big olde freshet of gaudy coldness

 

a big dry had beaten off the vast damp of days gone by - barely any ice on route - half the digits of my right foot right numb by grassy ledges, i unshod and rubbed hardly any life back into them - toes throb as i type

 

booty nut on p2, should the original owner wish to claim it from a massive pile of such things i have growing in my garage

 

not even a fort-night of fucknoodling about the sunny-side left - full moon fever this weekend for any half-wit warriors who might feel the urge to come w/...

 

 

 

2/2 - day #4 - ground hogz day, a swift demise to deadly winter predicted - 'twas the day after a wander up the hood-wand w/ an interesting feller to dispatch the doldrum of the beacon s side closure - ya never stop learning in the mountains, this time 2 Ore-e-gone Snowboard'nBoyz taught me how to inhale green weeds through green apples using nothing more than a glorious bright winter sun and a magnifying glass - a good invention for the stiff breezes off an open glacier - much thanks for them that rock the Van Damme :)

 

stone soup w/ geoff today - despite the distinct sense of early spring setting in as the Great Hamster foresaw, it was a mort cold and savage breezy - geoff did p1, and i managed to mangle meself on p2 - found a fixed nut at the start of the eyebrow traverse and was hanging out on it for awhile, had just plugged the next cam in when suddenly i was falling - fell/slid into a slab, instinctively grabbing an edge to stop the fall, sheared off the flesh of my pinky-tip and sprung the sprockets in the other fingers' knuckles, then went heads'o'er'tits and continued on down, getting entangled in the rope running up through the gear and ultimately arresting hanging upside down looking straight at the olde boye, who looked frankly startled :)

 

blood pouring from the flensed n' flapping finger, i wrapped my balaclava about it n' took stock - had a good gut laugh upon recalling that last time i climbed on this side, last spring, i'd ended up in the e.r. too - maybe i'm just not getting the message? :)

 

geoff was my hero - not only did he finish the pitch, he also figured out how, after 10 minutes, to get my damn knot untied by pounding on it w/ a jug - the big breeze blew itself out as dejected would-be hiking trail ascenders milled about the parking lot and i howled at the sky in mock musical appreciation - the climb done, we went off, each to his saturday night debaucheries and me to keen my wound w/ wanton drunkenness :P

 

4/25 - day 5 - holy shee-it muslims, it's been 2 months - lovely spring day - many olde boyes humping the o-zone on the way out - on the north side, the sun peaking over, one hand washes the other, i fear nothing - 3 peregrines screeching n' flopping about - green grass - crisp n' crunchy moss - had time to stop by and yack-yack w/ jim n' sal n' steve n' wes n' a whole motley crew of misfits n' misogynistic fucks on the way back - did a couple solo laps on the jacobs ladder and drank some beers, then boogied on back home for "house of cards" w/ the wifey

 

jesus-h-christ, why are they doing more construction on the 14?!?

 

4/30 - beacon day 6 for the year - only 2 days at the baconwand this month, but spring seems to be here fo'shiz, even if today it was right blustery and overcast - scrambly, scrambly on the n side for a while, then a satisfying hike to the summit - the 70th anniversary of an intelligence coup - "mincemeat has been swallowed" - peregrines apparent from the uprising exit, swooping and screeching and having a ball it looked - kenny in the lot, horrifyingly still set in his hate-tobacco way, but w/ rainier-beer as always :)

 

5/2 - day 7 - all my pardners bail - the pearl is in the river - john has a long mustache - freedom is slavery, war is peace!!!

 

5/4 - international star-wars day, may the fourth be with you :) beatard day 8 for 2013 - stoned stupor w/ bryan n' bob - bryan styles following p1 and leads p2 almost all clean - breezy n' balmy - eyes scuppered w/ dust-scum as i type - stooooked for a fine day in the sun - olde boys climbing below us on the spike route, a fine view from the phone booth - miker stops by for a chat even - summer's upon us!

 

5/6 - day #9 - afternoon sprint up the sun-baked monolith after union meetings and whatnot - pilgrims at dawn - days gone by and dead men ghosts - great gashes in the highway - asphalt scars and concrete wars - the red devil turns over 190k even as the cd player craps in the bed, carrying nico blue into the way blue yonder - the pearl is in the river :)

 

5/8 - beatard day 10 of the year - jesus christ on a cum-stained cushioned couch, this'er fine weather just won't fucking quit! out to slouch and lounge around the bacon-wand once more, scrambly-scrambly here and there along the north wall - figure its about time to scoot up the spike route sans rope i reckon - on up to the slumit in rude circuitous style, but all the beauty on the scamper back down - a buxom couple encountered cruising on up the packinko-portion of the trail, dressed appropriate for a warm day - i cast down mine eyes, unworthy as i am, only to be brought up sharp by a strange question from the sultry lassie - a great gaping grin, "oh no, heaven's no, how could you think that and who might you be" - claimed to know me and my sorcerous ways, but most surely she must mistake me for some other beatard cunt? "you were that guy guzzling boxed wine and chain-smoking camels last summer!" - goddammit, i must stop meeting ladies of quality in my long aestival blacked-out ambulations, it augers poor for my alternate-reality amors! :grin:

 

"AF is having problems w/ its fresh-water condensers" :rawk:

 

5/10 - day 11 - linked strong arms w/ der phuzzy, all phresh from phucking himself good n' proper last burn'n'man, flensed scars from incisions all about his satellite-parts - to the n side we did fly, me w/ the big wall dumpster full of wine n' hammers n' what have you...beers n' butts at the base - the spike route ensconced in scum n' villainy - we scamper up the right side first, when ole'jim w/ a jingus-voice arrived n' whisper-hollered up at us - to the tree n' the site of new natural destruction wrought all around, stone-fall n' swathes of moss scoured off in flight - we rap back to the big boy for bitter conversation and big Olde Tymes - intolerance for them a week earlier w/ their wire-brushes - gut laughs n' tyranny gestated - adam n' i up genesis to the tree again as the sun glows low - i above that, but bailing on a bolt too steep to suss out in the gloaming - the base again, shade-slumming w/ pall malls n' precious beer w/o end - the stumble-fuck in the dark, the way-back-bent in style - departure n' parting - kevbone no doubt kluster-fucked, i conklude :)

 

5/11 - a dozen days so far - 5 days this week :rawk: - junuary kicked square in the nuts, but waiting in the wings it seems - good thing really, i'm on the verge of tweaking out my fingers already - dogs in my dreams, feeding on my feet - terror at daybreak, broken in the bone yard - the ringing of bells at all hours, the horror of home-coming gone wrong - dust, dust, dust - the bloody angle when the walls fell - spotsylvania on a warm spring evening - they sing the body electric, and then they too Pass Beyond :brew:

 

5/14 - lucky #13 - gray and gaunt at the dawn, dim-minded and mopey - when the world dies in an orgasm of heavenly-fire, how i fucking hope it's a tuesday, and early in the morning to boot, to spare me the whole gory goddamn details of the day - tuesday, the red-haired stepchild of the torrid week - hitler was conceived on a tuesday - it's true, you can google that shit man :)

 

sun breaks around noon, life reviving, rock drying, seniors shuffle in and out in a hyperstatic hepped-up euphoric hangover - the red devil galloping east through the gorge, growling at these goddamn men in their machines gouging out the concrete and showering everything in gravel - the tyranny inherent in giving any man a blaze-orange vest and sign, too gross to contemplate in the golden sunshine searing through my senses

 

RIP william fetterman, you awful fucker - "give me 80 men and i can ride through the whole sioux nation" - yeah, how'd that one work for ya, son? :)

 

5/20 - day 14 - a week of piss wedder, sunday's window spent wrangling kidz and wrestling w/ the garden n' chores n' what-have-you - union bidness at the close of day, my wits as always confounded n' humbled by the human machinery of government made flesh - the ghost of winston smith haunts me, but it's a special merry kind of fool who can't make lemonade out of a luscious afternoon of sun and rushing warm air gusting down the gorge - get on your fucking horse, dr rick marshall!

 

kenny's rig in the lot, him and sneezy-jim already up the spike route i reckon - i settle for a sleazy saunter up the big rock, lost in the gauzy thoughts gamboling through my thick head - the moon waxes great, will the wedder-gods set me up a solid?

 

fosters on the falling back, cops holed up n' counting donut-holes at cape horn - thank christ i don't have a cigarette to shit on this wondrous scene :)

 

5/31 - day 15, 9 dayz this gentle may - heartbreak for days gone by - memorial day weekend at tieton a near total bust - communiques pist upon for tr's w/o pixels - a week with pouring rain and occasional piercing sun w/o rainbows

 

ain't seen mike since a far long time it seems - set out in the afternoon for a ramble up the spike route, him not having had it he said - the base gross n' baking - thick drip and damp on the rock like it'd been sprayed w/ horse-semen - genesis after nearly shitting a kitten on the klutchy-klutchy start - mike made p2 not so sad, but like me needed to stand on the anchor bolts whilst thrutch-fucking into the danky mcdankerson pod there :)

 

dug leading the 3rd pitch spike-part proper, but this time w/ a stout old black cock of static death to bat-man on up the slab

 

beerz n' gut-laughing n' music up in the woods - mike does p4 and dislodges a big old panel to come whiffling down my ways - i do the last bit up to the trail wading through thick-glades of oak, oily and fresh and full of fear

 

bongos at the summit, guitars n' young ones yodeling - jesus-harold-christ, children I Know up there doing god know's what - ruins my summit celebration, but what can you do - wizened age equals patience equals wisdom?

 

rolling rock n' reefers on the ramble on down - the new Man meandering around, tending the meters in the lot - don't seem like too fearsome a feller...

 

"something seems wrong w/ our bloody ships today!"

 

6/3 - day 16 - sweet green first peaking from the new berms of the road-cut west of ozone - a throaty breeze when work is spent - the day beams brightly, i jet down the well-worn highway - apples n' ass-ended hits n' horrid cigarettes - jimbo in the house, somewhere high up the hell-side, waging war on moss i'll warrant w/ that nefarious Other Feller - a raucous ramble up the boring old way - teens on the summit w/ their elders, teeming w/ the airs of methadonia unleashed - tails grown tepid, they rocket down the rock to the grinding of gears, knees shivering in the sea-gale

 

"and, somewhere in this favored land the sun is shining bright;

The band is playing somewhere, and somewhere hearts are light,

And somewhere men are laughing, and somewhere children shout;

but there is no joy in Beatardia, the south side is still closed out"

 

d-day - b-day plus 16 for me - machines shitting out soil on the road cut - long lines of traffic - sweating in the sun - a book and a beer for the beacon run - trains rumbling - falcons screeching - shade and wind - the island in the grips of the Drowned God - sweet tension released in seconds, the searing heat of summer upon us, the seniors soon to be flown and my professional sun setting :)

 

6/17 - #18 - grass bowing gently in the slight gusts of the western gorge - cool and sunny, scraps of clouds here and there - the highway gloriously free of frenetic machines fouling the thoroughfare - hawks and gulls hollering - hordes of dim-wits dashed all over the trail - the Usual Suspects - the Siegfried Oath issued all over again, the same all ways and in every weather - one day of classes left, the solstice hard upon us, sweet Summer is feeling rather tipsy and falling out of her panties in her haste - the Time is Right, my brothers :)

 

"well, i got in a quibble,

shot a door -

i'm reading the bible

by a 40 watt bulb -

what price freedom?

that is my rub

well i sleep like a baby

with the snakes n' the bugs"

7/31 - day 19 - first street legal day on the riverside in a rare ould time - mike's at 7 in the morning mist - bleary eyed, jesus christ, i'll be back at work in 4 weeks :noway: - knees too weary to start on cruising, we start up the corner and i somehow pinch a nerve in my back - electric lights dance when i move my head, so i learn to climb w/o looking anywhere :)

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any beatards up for a climb this weekend? I will lead SE Corner or you lead YW and I follow. Or whatever other project you have in mind. I have gear, car, and beer money. Usual partners are fishing or something.

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OK, Young Warriors. Is it still there?

If so, it is going to happen tomorrow.

 

Does anyone have a topo for the 1st and 2nd pitch? Also, what gear is recommended for the whole route?

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OK, Young Warriors. Is it still there?

If so, it is going to happen tomorrow.

 

Does anyone have a topo for the 1st and 2nd pitch? Also, what gear is recommended for the whole route?

 

This is a mixed route. Although it has been done completly on gear and also I just read a report someone did it on bolts alone which I question because you would basically be soloing it. especially for the third pitch which has two pitons 100 feet up from the anchor.

 

 

Have fun. This is my favorite route at Beacon.

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If you have never done this route and are with someone who does not know the way. Finding the anchor on top of the third pitch can be very tricky. FYI....

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I have done the P3 of YW before in the different link-up, so I am fairly positive where the pin anchor was on the top of that pitch. And yes, it is not in the most obvious place.

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Historic pins those. Jim O. says they were there before Young Warriors went up, a old aid route to that ledge, They are protected in that little niche, and stay dry year round so they are probably still great pins.

For Young Warriors here is my gear list in sequence. Kind of fun putting it down on paper.

 

 

Pitch 1: runners and draws, a few stoppers.

 

Pitch 2:

Climb up and clip a bolt with a sling

Move up and left and place a BD 2 inch gold cam in the horizontal and sling it.

Then move left to clip the bolt with a sling. To me it seems important to use slings for these moves to reduce the rope drag but it does make it more runout.

Climb and then mantle to a rest, look to your left for a stopper placement in the choss.

Gingerly tiptop up the flakes, and have a .3 BD small blue cam ready to place in the crack at the lip.

Crack climb up and left to another rest and place a BD .5 purple cam

Finish the crack, go right towards anchors and place a BD .4 grey cam to protect the second.

 

Pitch 3

Small stoppers off the anchor for 3 or 4 placements, and then widens to cams and stoppers to the top of the corner. You end up under a overhang and have to move right past 2 pins and up a steep little face. I back up the bottom pin with a cam on a sling just for peace of mind. Higher above the pins is another placement for cam or stopper, its kind of awkward to make. Above it eases and medium and bigger camps can be used to protect the second as you go up and left to the ledge with the two old pins in the niche.

Pitch 4

Stoppers and full set of cams. This pitch ia bolts and pins and placing gear. I sling it all except for the bolt at the base of the slab, there I use a draw. Also important to save a .4 BD grey cam or similar for the placement in the last section, there is a small dihedral where you are runout and its a good placement, two little slots in the rock in a row, its the top one. From there climb left and up to the ledge, hopefully still with some gear to build the anchor.

 

Pitch 5

Traverse right and place a .4 BD grey cam or similar in a horizontal and then climb up and right and then back left to find a hidden pin you can finally clip. Follow bolts for a while and when you reach the hanging boulders I recommend not touching them or placing gear in them. Continue up to join with the last pitch of the SE Corner.

Rock it~ :rocken:

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...so they are probably still great pins.

The p3 dihedral pins were checked in 2005, 2008, and last in 2011 and they are still bomb. The first pin on p1 and the angle up on p4 on the other hand were reset in 2005 and checked in 2008 and 2011 and neither placement was ever what you'd call fabulous no matter what.

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Ok Joe, tell everyone here on CC why you think you have the personal right!!!, to change , move or replace , bolts ,steal pins and change anything at Beacon Rock with out the approval of the BRCA.

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Another 200 or so pages and you guys'll have a pretty good alternative Bible for those tired of the same ole shite. Will JosephH fill the role of Our Savior or Beelzebub?

 

Stay tuned

 

and tuned

 

and tuned

 

(glaciers come back, then recede)

 

and tuned.

 

No End Times in this Bible!

Edited by tvashtarkatena

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Historic pins those. Jim O. says they were there before Young Warriors went up, a old aid route to that ledge, They are protected in that little niche, and stay dry year round so they are probably still great pins.

For Young Warriors here is my gear list in sequence. Kind of fun putting it down on paper.

 

 

Pitch 1: runners and draws, a few stoppers.

 

Pitch 2:

Climb up and clip a bolt with a sling

Move up and left and place a BD 2 inch gold cam in the horizontal and sling it.

Then move left to clip the bolt with a sling. To me it seems important to use slings for these moves to reduce the rope drag but it does make it more runout.

Climb and then mantle to a rest, look to your left for a stopper placement in the choss.

Gingerly tiptop up the flakes, and have a .3 BD small blue cam ready to place in the crack at the lip.

Crack climb up and left to another rest and place a BD .5 purple cam

Finish the crack, go right towards anchors and place a BD .4 grey cam to protect the second.

 

Pitch 3

Small stoppers off the anchor for 3 or 4 placements, and then widens to cams and stoppers to the top of the corner. You end up under a overhang and have to move right past 2 pins and up a steep little face. I back up the bottom pin with a cam on a sling just for peace of mind. Higher above the pins is another placement for cam or stopper, its kind of awkward to make. Above it eases and medium and bigger camps can be used to protect the second as you go up and left to the ledge with the two old pins in the niche.

Pitch 4

Stoppers and full set of cams. This pitch ia bolts and pins and placing gear. I sling it all except for the bolt at the base of the slab, there I use a draw. Also important to save a .4 BD grey cam or similar for the placement in the last section, there is a small dihedral where you are runout and its a good placement, two little slots in the rock in a row, its the top one. From there climb left and up to the ledge, hopefully still with some gear to build the anchor.

 

Pitch 5

Traverse right and place a .4 BD grey cam or similar in a horizontal and then climb up and right and then back left to find a hidden pin you can finally clip. Follow bolts for a while and when you reach the hanging boulders I recommend not touching them or placing gear in them. Continue up to join with the last pitch of the SE Corner.

Rock it~ :rocken:

 

Nice. Climb the entire climb sans bolts/pins including the anchors. Makes for a slightly more interesting climb. It can be done totally safely.

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