denalidave Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 here's to the final full-moon ascent of the season then - january 27! I just might make it, so long as the wedder won't mess up my make up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 here's to the final full-moon ascent of the season then - january 27! I just might make it, so long as the wedder won't mess up my make up... dunno 'bout you n' yer history of night climbing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 here's to the final My bicep is still all fucked up/half inflated...full-moon ascent of the season then - january 27! I just might make it, so long as the wedder won't mess up my make up... dunno 'bout you n' yer history of night climbing! One fall on one of many night climbs does not deter... Worst fall I've ever taken, fo sho. Good thing we at least had a rope that time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 I imagine that you guys could probably do the corner blind with a rope tied around your nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 I imagine that you guys could probably do the corner blind with a rope tied around your nuts. w/ or w/o weed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 new year, new beatard count 1/1/13 - day#1 - curiously cold and icy and windblown lap on the corner w/ that powderhound chap, clad in a goddamn gordon's fisherman jumpsuit w/ tight matching-colored gear - wondrous ice-curtain on the slab pitch, under the roofs, and frostcicles on tree ledge - a frozen gully choked w/ gravel up on grassy ledge - sand-storms out on the island, carrying grit all the way across the water to the docks - the boat landing slammed w/ waves, breaking across the ice-clad pier - many tourons on the trail - a fine, quick lap - the first day of Beatardia 2013! 1/12 - day#2 - strange day - freezing fog on the wakeup, car shackled in ice at the dawn - geoff at the burger king - high-speed jet through the quiet lull of the gorge, the road dry n' gentle - beacon becalmed, all door discipline disregarded - a great gut-laugh at the peach allah had gracefully cast into our laps - i get all the leads down low - consensus conditions S5 (our ascent of 12/21/12 in recent memory a retard S9, damn near pegging the limit of the possible) - challenging lead conditions for sure still, with sheet-freeze all over, slowly peeling off in the relatively tropical conditions - runnels of run-off bubbling underneath the ice - the sun bursting through the clear air - rumbles of gunfire, pap-pap-pap-pap, a militia-action for certain on the oregon shores - slip-sliding away all over from grassy ledges up - glimpse of the bonneville crick draining into the river, all jizzum-milky, the vas defernes of the columbian cock- exited the long way, the Great Coward wending all to Starboard where he could - a walk down all bathed in rays of a riotous golden orb - jim at the base w/ an old boy - oaths and auguries, threats and Aggravated Assaults considered - an easy orbit back through the steaming warmth of the gorge-winter disbanded, if only for a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 (edited) Edited January 15, 2013 by geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 Looks steep: Looks deep jim at the base w/ an old boy - oaths and auguries, threats and Aggravated Assaults considered - an easy orbit back through the steaming warmth of the gorge-winter disbanded, if only for a bit... We went down to 3 Capes area and hiked the Cape Lookout trail. 3 pods of whales migrating and perfect weather were the highlights. They're about halfway done from turning that trail from a sinkhole into a dry superhighway. If I'd known the weather was going to be that perfect I'd have wanted to do a lap at Beacon. Thought there was a possibility of some rain scheduled from when I'd checked the weather earlier in the week. Good times regardless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 see any ice bill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 see any ice bill? Only on the trail Bryan! The streams were running full tilt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 new year, new beatard count 1/1/13 - day#1 - curiously cold and icy and windblown lap on the corner w/ that powderhound chap, clad in a goddamn gordon's fisherman jumpsuit w/ tight matching-colored gear - wondrous ice-curtain on the slab pitch, under the roofs, and frostcicles on tree ledge - a frozen gully choked w/ gravel up on grassy ledge - sand-storms out on the island, carrying grit all the way across the water to the docks - the boat landing slammed w/ waves, breaking across the ice-clad pier - many tourons on the trail - a fine, quick lap - the first day of Beatardia 2013! 1/12 - day#2 - strange day - freezing fog on the wakeup, car shackled in ice at the dawn - geoff at the burger king - high-speed jet through the quiet lull of the gorge, the road dry n' gentle - beacon becalmed, all door discipline disregarded - a great gut-laugh at the peach allah had gracefully cast into our laps - i get all the leads down low - consensus conditions S5 (our ascent of 12/21/12 in recent memory a retard S9, damn near pegging the limit of the possible) - challenging lead conditions for sure still, with sheet-freeze all over, slowly peeling off in the relatively tropical conditions - runnels of run-off bubbling underneath the ice - the sun bursting through the clear air - rumbles of gunfire, pap-pap-pap-pap, a militia-action for certain on the oregon shores - slip-sliding away all over from grassy ledges up - glimpse of the bonneville crick draining into the river, all jizzum-milky, the vas defernes of the columbian cock- exited the long way, the Great Coward wending all to Starboard where he could - a walk down all bathed in rays of a riotous golden orb - jim at the base w/ an old boy - oaths and auguries, threats and Aggravated Assaults considered - an easy orbit back through the steaming warmth of the gorge-winter disbanded, if only for a bit 1/22 - #3 - annealed by two recent days at smith in the Big Fridge of the bivy site, mornings traversing the phantasmagorical formations of frozen sludge, mike and i had an evening run up the bacon-wand in a big olde freshet of gaudy coldness a big dry had beaten off the vast damp of days gone by - barely any ice on route - half the digits of my right foot right numb by grassy ledges, i unshod and rubbed hardly any life back into them - toes throb as i type booty nut on p2, should the original owner wish to claim it from a massive pile of such things i have growing in my garage not even a fort-night of fucknoodling about the sunny-side left - full moon fever this weekend for any half-wit warriors who might feel the urge to come w/... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Was the nut mine? as the nut following me might have left it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 please to describe color and unlikely place it was left (and why you need chalk in sub-freezing temps! ) actually, come to think on it, ole'mike laid claim to the wayward bit of metal, so you'll need to holler at him - like me, he no longer has need for non-dmm offsets, so i'm sure he'd be happy to fork it over... you gonna come play saturday night? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 man, beacon done changed! anybody had chillblains before? i've diagnosed meself on the interweb after the corner ascent the other day...jesus, all the toes of my right foot feel like they're contionously burning - what's odd is how little time it took for that to happen - our whole climb was only an hour and a half, and it wasn't until half-way up that they went numb - i'm assumign this shit'll go away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 There was a decent size rockfall onto the trail just short of the brass plague that took out the bridge there and bent one of the main beams. The trail is currently closed pending their structural engineer taking a look at it and re-planking. At the moment it doesn't appear additional [volunteer] resources will be necessary, but it wouldn't hurt to offer. I for sure can't get away due to a medical crisis in the immediate family, but it does represent an opportunity for the BRCA to make the offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 ah, the sweet strains of the annual february breeze.... fucking rain done ruined the full moon last weekend - typical that this weekend's clear weather coincides w/ the closure - anyone wanna team up for a stone soup ascent, or work on finangling a new way more in the center? there are other beacon rock south side's in the life of man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 ah, the sweet strains of the annual february breeze.... fucking rain done ruined the full moon last weekend - typical that this weekend's clear weather coincides w/ the closure - anyone wanna team up for a stone soup ascent, or work on finangling a new way more in the center? there are other beacon rock south side's in the life of man free climb the "forbidden slab" it has pretty cool moves on it down low top rope the pitches on " stone soup", top rope the first pitch of "smoke signals", top rope "false profits" or lead them. they are all great routes the north side has great free climbing potential, bummed i never got a chance finish off all those routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 beacon's s face seems pretty close in size to the monument at smith, and that gets a total closure - so too does everything above p1 on the picnic lunch wall (and there's no serious attempt to keep folks from hiking around up top on either wall) i'd say then the bird policy/enforcment's pretty similiar between the two parks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 i'd agree w/ joe that kvetching about the trail aint' likely to get you far, but it is the interwebs afterall, so what else you gonna do? seems like line of sight is as relevant as total distance from the nest - young warriors and the west face would seem unlikely to disturb the birdies either, but clearly climbers have little poltical pull and a less than perfect history w/ the land managers perhaps if we can just introduce some growth hormones into the local air so the babies can get big n' strong n' fly the hell away once it finally gets bright n' sunny again? bitching bout this seems rather absurd when it's pouring out for months on end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 well instead of bitching lets all go climb stone soup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 well instead of bitching lets all go climb stone soup x2 - would love to see a true gay-pride parade of beatard wingnuts making the pilgrimage in multi-colored goretex on saturday, as da wedder looks to be stellar last year that first closure weekend we had a fine party all rigged up for the swiss ledges, a great big haul-bag of every dangerous substance known to civilized man since 1681, yet it ended up tragically windy and we spent the night in a grim, albeit thoroughly drunken, survival mood, shrieking at each other above the din of the eastern gusts, the stone-pipe all to seek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 bird man, my favorite buck rogers character after the totally gay sycophantic buddy-buddy robot feller! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 what this thread needs is a large, high-res image of a big, fat.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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