stevetimetravlr Posted August 12, 2012 Share Posted August 12, 2012 Lots of gear placements if you look for them on YW. Not really even dicey. Onsiting Pipeline, now thats dicey. Blind strenuous placments around the corner as you layback up, wild! Anyone here ever gotten the onsite or redpoint of Pipeline? As it's beyond me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 13, 2012 Author Share Posted August 13, 2012 Lots of gear placements if you look for them on YW. Not really even dicey. Onsiting Pipeline, now thats dicey. Blind strenuous placments around the corner as you layback up, wild! Anyone here ever gotten the onsite or redpoint of Pipeline? As it's beyond me. I redpointed Pipeline in 2004. I got it before I sent freeforsome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Redpoint or Pinkpoint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 13, 2012 Author Share Posted August 13, 2012 Redpoint or Pinkpoint? Both. I first top roped the shit out of it.....then I top roped it with gear and tried to mock lead it....once all the gear was in Jaime and I pulled the rope and both pinkpointed it....I was not satisfied with that so kept working on it. I got shut down a couple of times but one afternoon a couple of weeks later I warmed up on the 10.c to the right of it....then hopped on Pipeline and sent ground up. I have since gone back and top roped it and thought "how the hell did I do this"....its really difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 Lots of gear placements if you look for them on YW. Not really even dicey. Onsiting Pipeline, now thats dicey. Blind strenuous placments around the corner as you layback up, wild! Anyone here ever gotten the onsite or redpoint of Pipeline? As it's beyond me. I looked at it once. Does that count as an on sight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 It's a real stout lead, especially if you do the lower start on the right as opposed to joining the line higher up traversing onto it from the left. I've never seen or heard of anyone onsighting it though I've seen a couple of folks do it with one fall. Took me a half-dozen goes to get it and it was completely desperate / lucky that time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 14, 2012 Author Share Posted August 14, 2012 I watched this guy (mike used to work at Club sport years ago) onsight it in 2002. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 14, 2012 Author Share Posted August 14, 2012 When I sent it I had the gear dialed. I even had the right nuts on the quickdraws in order in which they would be placed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 I seem to recall that in the end it was all about working your feet and getting every possible reasonable foot hold, particularly for the left foot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 I don't know, I feel that Pipeline is about a grade easier than Free-for-Some. I got Pipeline onsight but I only get FFS about half the time even after climbing it a ton... I guess its all about comfort on a particular terrain vs route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 On top rope (because I dont climb at that level currently) I am fairly certain I could walk up and send free for some......but not pipeline. Maybe because I have memorized free for some like the back of my hand. Love them both! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 maybe he was. Maybe thats what he meant when he claimed the first free ascent of Stone Rodeo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 maybe he was. Maybe thats what he meant when he claimed the first free ascent of Stone Rodeo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 Planning on heading out to Beacon tomorrow evening. I know it is supposed to be hot but so what. Bringing swim suite to jump in the river off the dock afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astrov Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 Did SE Corner yesterday with some good folks. How do you get to the dock? That marina you can see isn't private, eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 16, 2012 Author Share Posted August 16, 2012 Did SE Corner yesterday with some good folks. How do you get to the dock? That marina you can see isn't private, eh? Nope. Coming from Portland it is the exit before the Beacon parking lot. It is part of the State Park. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Does this mean there really are no pyramids on Mars, or in Alaska, for that matter? I've heard otherwise from the man himself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Does this mean there really are no pyramids on Mars, or in Alaska, for that matter? I've heard otherwise from the man himself. Well, I was trying hard to be kind on the 24x7 Christian TV and reptilian Nephilim front, but now that you bring it up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astrov Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Did SE Corner yesterday with some good folks. How do you get to the dock? That marina you can see isn't private, eh? Nope. Coming from Portland it is the exit before the Beacon parking lot. It is part of the State Park. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Hey, BillCoe, where's that "Can't we all just get along pic"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 Arent and I did a complete boltess, pitonless accent of Young Warriors last night. We did not clip or use any bolts for anchors either. This is the way this route should be climbed. It goes on gear the entire way. It is a little spicy in some parts. Its a tad run in a couple of parts but its all there. Totally rad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 I know Joseph has done this (or at least he says he has), but has anyone else done this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Arent and I did a complete boltess, pitonless accent of Young Warriors last night. We did not clip or use any bolts for anchors either. This is the way this route should be climbed. It goes on gear the entire way. It is a little spicy in some parts. Its a tad run in a couple of parts but its all there. Totally rad! Cool, but I like how ol boy Ivan does it- only QDs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Arent and I did a complete boltess, pitonless accent of Young Warriors last night. We did not clip or use any bolts for anchors either. This is the way this route should be climbed. It goes on gear the entire way. It is a little spicy in some parts. Its a tad run in a couple of parts but its all there. Totally rad! Cool, but I like how ol boy Ivan does it- only QDs. I'd like to see him lead the second pitch w only draws. No way, Jose... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 you could tie a knot in a draw good enough to protect the butt-hole i bet speaking of bacon, anyone wanna climb sunday? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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