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Will is a good guy and a good climber. He is familar with the ozone....

 

I just try and keep up with you Kev :grin:

 

 

Well.....you are almost to 1000 posts....keep it up.... :D

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Getting back to the discussion of Little Wing at Beacon. Its a good climb and has that one section, but I think Aries at the Town wall is stouter for a 5.8. Anyone second that notion? Its not hard by Index standards, but right off the start offwidth move or two that gets the blood pumping and is kind of physical if you're not warmed up. Then a second crux in the thin fingers crack up above, finger lockers with nothing for feet, so just yard thru it. Second pitch is flaring chimney with crack in back and then undercling at the top.

 

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I recall receiving a bit of a spanking and having few PBR pints before seconding Jills with Dave, but from what I recall it felt like 5.9 for Beacon Kev.

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I have always thought the slabby crux just before hitting yosy ledge felt like 10.a to me. Alot of folks get shut down there....or at least hesitate.

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Thats what I've heard, but I really struggled less there than I did farther down. Perhaps it was the liguid courage and the tr.

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I have always thought the slabby crux just before hitting yosy ledge felt like 10.a to me. Alot of folks get shut down there....or at least hesitate.
I always thought that too, as do most people I've asked. However, last year I found a way to work a bit higher with the hands that make it 5.9, at least for me anyway. If I don't use that hold and go out way right for the insecure slabby move, it's feels very 10a.

 

I love Jill's but if you fall at the crux, odds are good for rolling/breaking an ankle on the bulge below so it's never a gimme in my book.

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I have it wired so it does not matter any way....but it feels like a 10.a move to me. Does anyone remember the moss hold up and right? It is not there anymore....yet I still use the rock where the moss was.....

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I also really like that 5.10ish fingery thing off of Yos Ledge, just left of the rap anchors. What is that again? Crazy Horse?

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I also really like that 5.10ish fingery thing off of Yos Ledge, just left of the rap anchors. What is that again? Crazy Horse?

 

 

Yes....crazy horse. That is the second pitch. I think that is 5.9.

 

The way Jim describes it is to lead is 10.a and to top rope it, it is 5.9.

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Is Crazy Horse that thin fingers crack 15 feet to the left of Jills on the last pitch? Has anyone done the crack where you traverse out of the crack right on the second pitch of Blownout to another crack? I can't remember the name but it looks wild.

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I also really like that 5.10ish fingery thing off of Yos Ledge, just left of the rap anchors. What is that again? Crazy Horse?

 

 

Yes....crazy horse. That is the second pitch. I think that is 5.9.

 

The way Jim describes it is to lead is 10.a and to top rope it, it is 5.9.

I agree with Jim, it is a bit heady on lead till you get past the crux, feels 10a to me.

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Is Crazy Horse that thin fingers crack 15 feet to the left of Jills on the last pitch? Has anyone done the crack where you traverse out of the crack right on the second pitch of Blownout to another crack? I can't remember the name but it looks wild.
Seems like Fargo (Nate) got on that last year but maybe I'm thinking of a different line that comes off a different route.

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Seems like yall need to get a room. Just sayin....
Then you would not be able to chime in. Just sayin, bout your sprayin...

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