Plaidman Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Thanks Ivan. It has to be a little more out of the wind then where we were. We will see what the weather allows here the next couple weeks,yeah! Wind or no wind we just need to do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 video of Scott on Physic Wound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 cool, man i'm really missin beacon about riiiiiight NOW!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 I'm sure Beacon misses you dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 cool, man i'm really missin beacon about riiiiiight NOW!!!!! Me too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 video of Scott on Physic Wound Thanks man. That video is awesome. Fun time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 all we are is dust in the wind dude jeebus, how long did ya'll spend on that pitch? when it suddenly became dark in the video i grew concerned for you boys safety did you use any of that iron plaid, or is it clean? i need to borrow those ladders of yours sometime and give'me a test drive - they look fawk'n nifty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Those aiders are the most awesome. Really stable. I used a lot of iron in that crack. Knife blade bugaboos, peckers, long dong lost arrow, another lost arrow piton, several sawed off last arrows, tricams, 3 alians, lots off off set nuts, small brassies, baby angles. 34 pieces of gear. You should have seen the nest of body weight pieces at the top of the pitch. Well not the top. The top I got to in my effort. I was at least 5 1/2 to 6 hours on it. I didn't even leave the ledge until 12:45 p.m. Damn winter. Not enough sun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ospray Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 I was at least 5 1/2 to 6 hours on it. Holy Crap! Where you on some A5 or what? Thats about 12 minnutes per meter! Seriously tho what route at Beacon where you on that took that long? Aid or free climb? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 those central column aid-routes take a long time - they're all long and have very few quick n' easy n' solid placements - go get after smooth dancer and it's like that, starting from the ground! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ospray Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Is that two cracks left of Wild Turkeys? If so that is for sure one of the better nailing routes I did at Beacon during my aid spree there. Never was sure about a name though. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 ...several sawed-off lost arrows... You sawed-off arrows? ...baby angles... Couldn't these be Cn placements of some sort? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ospray Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 ...several sawed-off lost arrows... You sawed-off arrows? ...baby angles... Couldn't these be Cn placements of some sort? I agree whats a sawed-off arrow? I've heard of sharpening them for soft rock but why saw one off? As far as the angles go, if this is the same climb I did there are definatly some of those places where an angle would work and a nut or cam wouldnt. Small openings in the crack where an angle fits perfect almost like a drilled angle or some such, but no room for the wire or stem of a cam or nut. I didn't have cam hooks or ball nuts then but these seem like a possible option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 I can't say for sure in every case, but aiding through (as opposed to protecting) most baby angle placements seems to me a matter of being equipped right and being able to hold onto a Cn frame of reference instead of just reaching for the pin, even if that means committing to a C3ish move. I've made moves like this on loweballs, hooks, hand-placed beaks/toucans, and one side of small cams. But sometimes you just have to reach for the iron and an arrow, bug, or blade for sure, but angles - even baby angles - seem like you're starting to drift into expediency if it's the rule instead of an exception to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 I'm not sure I understand what you are saying Joe. Plaid defintely wasn't drifting into expediency, I am here to tell you! ha! We had double set of Alien and Alien offsets, double set of Dmm offset brassies, full set of C3's, all the clean tools neccessary, but that seam is so tiny he kept going to the peckerheads and knifeblades,he had to tag up a whole nother set of them. It did take him a while, although he ran up the first bit in pretty fair style, but as he neared the top, it went to 15-20 minutes a placement, and then on the last placement he was there for like 45 minutes without moving, he kept blowing the pieces at the copperhead seam but we had no small heads, just some big ones. so next time. It was a grand adventure, although the book I was reading was kind of lousy so that was weak sauce. Osprey, this is the line to the right of Flying Dutchman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Osprey, this is the line to the right of Flying Dutchman. Serious question: is that P1 of Dutchman just to the left of Scott in this pic Steve? If yes, does Psychic get a P2 and hit the ledge. Not serious: shouldn't that go free....and clean? Looks like it should:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 I was at least 5 1/2 to 6 hours on it. Holy Crap! Where you on some A5 or what? Thats about 12 minnutes per meter! Seriously tho what route at Beacon where you on that took that long? Aid or free climb? Cheers Well, considering Plaid once told me it took him 13 hours to free climb the SE Corner, I'd say he is getting really, really fast. Relatively speaking... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Serious question: is that P1 of Dutchman just to the left of Scott in this pic Steve? If yes, does Psychic get a P2 and hit the ledge. Not serious: shouldn't that go free....and clean? Looks like it should:-) that would be p2 of the dutchman there bill - the bears in heat crack is plain to the left of that - that p2 of the dutchman is a much faster clean aid pitch, quite long - there's a wee bit that is very small clean aid/birdbeaks, but at that pt its very contrived NOT to go up bears a couple feet and then step back in who's gonna be out there in the slop this weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 What Ivan said! Plaid told me that Andrew(Pink) tried to free the final pitch Physic Wound unsucessfully sometime back, and he is the only person to date known to have climbed it at all, aid or free, with copperheads and skyhooks and iron. But he posts on here, so whats da story Pink??!!! Would love to hear the story!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Trip: BaconCockRockinSlutSnot- Psychedelic Laceration how the fuck do i tell the tale of this stone to all fuckin hell blurr fest, perhaps i should pray to the sweet holy baby jebus. fact is i never even threw a TR on PL before, much less lead that crusty ass slit. i knew form the cocksucking moment i'd be throwing on the training wheels to polish off what mr. Opdyke and mr. Tracy started back during the Reagan Years. the year was 1998, my partner was Blueblocker, the plan was to do a complete one day journey to the center of the mind, minus Ted Nugent. instead we invited Mike Muir and company cause John wasn't gonna cut the butter on this one. the first pitch of PW 10.B was always a favorite free climb of mine, i was always into climbing Jim's (Opdyke) routes cause it's fucking near impossible not to wheather you like the guy or not. i like Jim, he's one of my best friends, Jim pretty much is Beacon Rock as far as i'm concerned. one day on one of my frequent free ascents of PW with Jim, pointed out that this line had never been done as far as he knew ( Jim knows so one fall day i drug my friend MIke (Blue Blocker) out to Beacon to Belay and keep me company to try my hand at this fragile seam. the first pitch was business as usual, fun moves on a adequately protected fun fest. i had brought a boom box and a bunch of weed to keep my partner sedated wile i plugged away at this alleged virgin line. the first part was relatively drama free, mosty A1 with a few tricky placements and good hook placements. the business started when the seam went to a LA sized flare which i had trouble getting any clean gear to stick in the upper section, the small HB brassies that i had kept on blowing out of the LA/KB sized crack. i never realized how soft the rock at beacon is prior to this, it's as if there is this egg like shell coating the entire thing. i would have loved to have placed some LA's (cause i love bangin iron) but the seam is in the back of a flare, so pretty much the eye gets in the way. i'm sure JH has some Straight Euro Trash Iron that would had worked well but i didn't have any of those soft pitons designed for climbing on soft rock like this. so i ended up placing a few small heads to get through the crux sections. i barely placed these heads trying to keep clean as possible, all the heads ended up pulling out of the crack as my partner jugged the lead line. as i neared the rim to grassy ledges i heard a familiar voice, as i poked my head over the rim i realized i was just in time for a safety meeting. my best friend Jim (Mr. Beacon Rock) was sitting there to greet and congratulate me on the FA. it's really hard to believe there was a virgin dihedral left out there. i don't remember what i rated this climb but the placements were definitely thought provoking and i do remember falling on a fish hook. funny thing was when i got to the top my partner asked why in the fuck i wanted to climb this pitch. i then informed him it was an FA. i knew he'd want a piece of it if he found out it had never been done. i guess Algernon was groovin on the boom box and flowers a got for him Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Holy sheep shit. Thank goodness for safety meetings,its a dangerous world out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 We had double set of Alien and Alien offsets, double set of Dmm offset brassies, full set of C3's, all the clean tools necessary... Hmmm, I guess I personally wouldn't consider that list as being "all the clean tools necessary". Add doubles #1-#3 ball nuts and variety of peckers / toucans / beaks /camhooks and then I might consider it that. I'll have to take a look at it this coming year some time and check it out. I can't remember anything in the way of specifics about it from when I did the anchoring and pin checks. You'd have to get your speed up a bit, but you'll be ready for Baffin, Greenland, or winter ascents in the Valley if you guys keep this up. P.S. you might want to consider bottom-anchoring your ledge if you're in a really exposed location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Good story on the FA. Yeah, given the couple I've set I can imagine heads are a pretty iffy proposition out there in real small basalt flares. McGown's old, Chouinard bashies I tested seemed bomb enough, but you're definitely gambling with small heads on an FA or other not-well-traveled, dirty route out there. Were you using copper or aluminum for the small? I should think you'd want aluminum to paste and smear around as well as possible, but then you're gambling on it holding at all. And yeah, the soft eurotrash pins do worm their way around (limited) bends which is why they're so good out out there - you just wouldn't want to fall on the baby paddle blades and getting the big ones out if really sunk around bends is not really going to happen without busting up some rock (i.e. are better left fixed if used). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 SO! You admit to NOT freeing and NOT clean climbing Mr Pink? LOL! I'm kidding, nicely told! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 the year was 1998, my partner was Blueblocker, Ah Blueblocker. I wonder about him from time to time. I wonder if he like jail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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