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      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

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FFA.OW = Noob.DeathTrap
Look at it this way... If the noobs all get eliminated on that route, they won't be yarding on all the other loose holds... Hmmmm

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eldiente/nate:

 

no, seriously, i did "the line" and two weeks later did free for all and thought it was just as good.

 

OF COURSE i'd rather have lover's leap 45 minutes from home instead of beacon, but that doesn't mean some climbs at beacon aren't as good or better than climbs at the leap.

 

i'd put free for some, dastardly, windsurfer, second pitch of blown out and bluebird right up there with the best crack climbs anywhere.

 

 

 

 

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i'd put free for some, dastardly, windsurfer, second pitch of blown out and bluebird right up there with the best crack climbs anywhere.

 

 

 

 

Agreed.

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eldiente/nate:

 

i'd put free for some, dastardly, windsurfer, second pitch of blown out and bluebird right up there with the best crack climbs anywhere.

 

All are fun pithes and great PDX climbing.(Is there actually any mandatory jamming on windsurfer?) However, when I think of the "best" crack climbing around I'm usually thinking of this place.

 

 

[img:center]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_XNueStDVX8c/RyoDqvTLSeI/AAAAAAAABkQ/-pdG4tTC8j4/s640/IMG_3230.jpg[/img]

 

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i'd put free for some, dastardly, windsurfer, second pitch of blown out and bluebird right up there with the best crack climbs anywhere.

 

 

 

 

Agreed.

 

I dont know what you guys are smoking with Jim but jesus if it isnt making you guys fucking retarded. Best anywhere? :laf: :laf: :laf:

 

I'm stoked you guys like Beacon so much (then again if that's the reason you all talk about it every other day then I take it back) but do yourself a favor and go spend a week at Devils Tower and then report back.

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eldiente/nate:

 

i'd put free for some, dastardly, windsurfer, second pitch of blown out and bluebird right up there with the best crack climbs anywhere.

:tup:

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FFA.OW = Noob.DeathTrap

also very hungover climber barrier too, based on my last attempt :)

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i'd put free for some, dastardly, windsurfer, second pitch of blown out and bluebird right up there with the best crack climbs anywhere.

 

 

 

 

Agreed.

 

I dont know what you guys are smoking with Jim but jesus if it isnt making you guys fucking retarded. Best anywhere? :laf: :laf: :laf:

 

I'm stoked you guys like Beacon so much (then again if that's the reason you all talk about it every other day then I take it back) but do yourself a favor and go spend a week at Devils Tower and then report back.

 

 

John. For me its not just about the routes at Beacon, its about the vibe of the place. The people that climb there. The view.

 

All these things combine to make a great place to climb and hang out.

 

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trout creek is soooo boooring.....jam repeat jam repeat jam repeat.

 

Clearly you've been spending too much time on the warm-ups down there.. If the jamming is putting you to sleep, may I suggest some routes that might wake you up?

 

There is a new line out there that a certain 9 fingered big-shot tried to work on during a recent trip there. He wasn't able to send it, maybe because this guy is only good at climbing in the Valley, and is actually a shitty climber? This route would be perfect for you, just like Beacon Rock stemming!. The beta is mellow. Yes, there is a few tips finger that you have to jam, but fear not, these jams are 15 feet apart with nothing in between so hopefully you won't get too bored. Gear? You won't need much as this seam only opens up a few times for micro gear. Assuming you don't fall asleep while leading, you can have the FA and the only 5.14 on the wall. Go get it!

 

Edited by eldiente

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Trout Creek is crack central, no question. but there is something endearing about the ambiance of Beacon and having a waterfall running down your sleeve. Plus you can't hang out on a ledge at the top of Trout Creek without getting bit by a rattler. :shock:

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i'd put free for some, dastardly, windsurfer, second pitch of blown out and bluebird right up there with the best crack climbs anywhere.

 

 

 

 

Agreed.

 

I dont know what you guys are smoking with Jim but jesus if it isnt making you guys fucking retarded. Best anywhere? :laf: :laf: :laf:

 

I'm stoked you guys like Beacon so much (then again if that's the reason you all talk about it every other day then I take it back) but do yourself a favor and go spend a week at Devils Tower and then report back.

 

 

pink say's "john frieh"....

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dunno 'bout the best place in the world to climb, but trout is personally the most painful place i've ever climbed :)

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I know the one. It gets me every time. About half way up. It makes it the hardest 5.8 anywhere.

 

Plaidman

 

The hardest 5.8 anywhere? Riiiight. Let me guess, the opening moves on Nine Gallon makes it the hardest 5.9 anywhere, right?

 

A grade is a grade is a grade....

 

Fuck off you jackass

 

"Fuck off you jackass"...well, it's like this Plaidman. One might want to spend some time "free climbing" in multiple areas before he/she starts spouting off delusions of grandeur about their home crags. Ever climb a 5.8 at The City? How about 5.8 in the northeast? I've read a portion of your Valley manifesto--I mean trip report--so there is evidence that you've climbed outside of Oregon...so you should know better.

 

 

 

 

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Nope, didn't go. Went mountain biking instead. A friend did convey that he felt that the park was busier than he'd ever seen it before.....those guys that tackled Abraxis had the right idea.

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I know the one. It gets me every time. About half way up. It makes it the hardest 5.8 anywhere.

 

Plaidman

 

The hardest 5.8 anywhere? Riiiight. Let me guess, the opening moves on Nine Gallon makes it the hardest 5.9 anywhere, right?

 

A grade is a grade is a grade....

 

Fuck off you jackass

 

"Fuck off you jackass"...well, it's like this Plaidman. One might want to spend some time "free climbing" in multiple areas before he/she starts spouting off delusions of grandeur about their home crags. Ever climb a 5.8 at The City? How about 5.8 in the northeast? I've read a portion of your Valley manifesto--I mean trip report--so there is evidence that you've climbed outside of Oregon...so you should know better.

 

 

 

 

dude, don't be such a dick... it's his opinion and he's entitled it and i don't believe he was speaking on your behalf. plaid is a cool guy out having fun and that's why we all like to climb in the first place. i do believe he's from colorado where i'm certain there are some pretty stout 5.8's. it's all subjective anyhow, i'm sure your a cool guy but jeebus "the city" out "east" get real dude it's all about having fun and not exploiting what u love. :wave:

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He can say "Fuck off you jackass" and I can't rally back with some banter. Whatever. But I do agree with you. I am being a dick and climbing grades are subjective.

 

I just remember Plaidman doing a trip report on The Smith Rock Detour.....which was/is so fucking gay....and I guess I'm not really over it yet.

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