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      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

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Since Wrong Gull fell off, nobody climbs below the pillar really. I would say leave the bolts then, and put up some routes that go up thru the new terrain there. First ascent waiting for ya Kevbone!

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Anyone know when Young Warriors was first climbed and by who?

 

 

Jim Opdyke and Michael Jackson and they worked on it for years... I think Ken Pasquinelli did the 3rd Pitch...

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Climbed the original line of Right Gull today. The second pitch went fine protecting with a couple cams (see earlier post 1 page back) where the pin is now missing. This was the first time I climbed the wide hand sized crack on the far right instead of the hand crack section of Seagull on the left. Awkward in places but definitely likes 2"-3" cams. The rest of the line is fairly benign. Personally I'd recommend the Vulcan variation, the far left Seagull crack variation and adding in Muriel's Memoir for the best combination up this route.

 

I was looking for the Crazy Horse pitches after the short stiff section on pitch 2 of Right Gull, does anyone know where that route goes? From the ledge above where the pin popped out you can look right and see the top of Fear of Flying. Somewhere on the wall is another wide crack but I couldn't figure out what was what. I know that the thin finger crack left of the last pitch of Jill's is the upper section of Crazy Horse but wonder where the original line went.

 

I also started up Left Gull with a pruner but there was just way too much invasive Himalayan Blackberry stuffed in the cracks. This needs a top down effort. Anyone up for a day of cleaning and seeing if we can relink the line where that pillar fell off?

 

Steve - I have a fun line waiting for you if you want to get out. ;)

 

 

 

There is still a stuck cam down low on Little Wing if anyone wants to go booty it.

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Anyone know when Young Warriors was first climbed and by who?

 

 

Me and Arent have the second ascent from the ground to the top. It was originally done in pieces. 3rd and 4th pitch was put up years before the first and second.

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Topher, next time you climb that wide crack 2nd pitch on Right Gull instead of the hand crack to the left, look at the detached block you are climbing on. It will probably hold for long time still, but taking a fall on gear in that crack may be just the recipe for making it go. I am wary of it.

Crazy Horse I did long ago with Rock H., and he exited the gear belay ledge going right and then up. Its all overgrown with lichen and doesn't look good now.

I am always up for getting out. Let me know!

 

Kevbone, two words, RIP CITY!!! Has Arent gotten over his poison oak?

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Topher, next time you climb that wide crack 2nd pitch on Right Gull instead of the hand crack to the left, look at the detached block you are climbing on. It will probably hold for long time still, but taking a fall on gear in that crack may be just the recipe for making it go. I am wary of it.

 

Steve is spot on here, but it's loose and could go at any time on someone even without a fall. Organizing to trundle it would probably be the smarter option.

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That things way to big to trundle. It could set off some ground fault and make California fall into the sea.

 

We've trundled bigger from higher - sick Bill on it, he'll jump up and down on it til it cuts and then surf it down to the tracks.

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Anyone know when Young Warriors was first climbed and by who?

 

 

Me and Arent have the second ascent from the ground to the top. It was originally done in pieces. 3rd and 4th pitch was put up years before the first and second.

 

So I have " Jim Opdyke and Michael Jackson and they worked on it for years... I think Ken Pasquinelli did the 3rd Pitch..."

 

does anyone know the year(s)?

 

Is there somewhere to look it up, a guidebook not in publication for Beacon perhaps?

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Anyone know when Young Warriors was first climbed and by who?

 

 

Me and Arent have the second ascent from the ground to the top. It was originally done in pieces. 3rd and 4th pitch was put up years before the first and second.

 

So I have " Jim Opdyke and Michael Jackson and they worked on it for years... I think Ken Pasquinelli did the 3rd Pitch..."

 

does anyone know the year(s)?

 

Is there somewhere to look it up, a guidebook not in publication for Beacon perhaps?

 

 

the guy u wanna talk to isn't on the internet :)

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That things way to big to trundle. It could set off some ground fault and make California fall into the sea.

 

We've trundled bigger from higher - sick Bill on it, he'll jump up and down on it til it cuts and then surf it down to the tracks.

 

Damned straight. Good times JH.Something similar to this:

 

Dr._Strangelove_-_Riding_the_Bomb.png

 

I appreciated that you got good co-ordination with the Railroad and the park to get those pre-openings happening. Climbers certainly benefited, but the RR is the big beneficiaries, maybe the whole region. Much more than climbers. If that damn thing cuts loose this winter or in the next few years like the last big chuck of rock only while a train is happening by it could be real ugly if they are carrying industrial chemicals downriver and the trail gets derailed, destroyed and plunges into the river.

 

Anyone remember this one? Minor (relatively) spill of herbicide that was frontpage for weeks. http://abc7news.com/archive/8126390/

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Trundle that pillar and it'll go all the way to the river I would imagine. I will take the Seagull crack to the left every time instead of touching that block, even though Im sure its superglued in.

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but...but...i thought what happened in vegas...

 

 

burro pic or it didn't happen :)

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Trundle that pillar and it'll go all the way to the river I would imagine. I will take the Seagull crack to the left every time instead of touching that block, even though Im sure its superglued in.

 

It apparently rocked a bit on Shane when he went by it recently.

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Damned straight. Good times JH.

 

You were a spectacle that day and I'm still bummed I don't have a video of you out jumping up and down on the point of that enormous spear...

 

I appreciated that you got good co-ordination with the Railroad and the park to get those pre-openings happening.

 

Yeah, we and the BRSP had a good working relationship with the railroad, but unfortunately WSDOT screwed the pooch a couple of years back with their Rt. 14 work up closer to White Salmon. They told the railroad they only needed to close the tracks for most of a day, but it ended up being more like sixty hours with traffic backed up to Chicago. That pissed the railroad off big time and now they want something on the order of three weeks notice for any stoppages so it's important to plan ahead for these things and get the BRSP involved early on so they can set it up.

 

Anyone remember this one? Minor (relatively) spill of herbicide that was frontpage for weeks. http://abc7news.com/archive/8126390/

 

Haven't seen that one before, but a quick google for "oil train derailment' shows there's no shortage of hell being unleashed by oil trains of late and a bunch of them are now coming through Gorge on a daily basis.

 

Veil of secrecy returns to oil trains in Pacific Northwest under new plan

 

We know how much Bakken crude moves because of a May 2014 emergency federal order. It allowed the public to learn that the Columbia River Gorge had become one of the country's major oil train corridors, with 18 loaded trains moving through weekly. We learned that traffic was growing along the Deschutes River, through Bend and Central Oregon.

 

Friday's rules end that disclosure. Starting in March 2016, railroads only have to provide contact information for someone who can discuss routing issues with local officials.

 

Oil trains will again move under a veil of secrecy. With proposed projects aiming to bring even more oil by rail through the Columbia Gorge, the public will only be able to guess at how much oil moves along the river and other sensitive areas in Oregon and Washington.

 

If a rockfall ever interrupts this oil traffic there will be hell to pay for sure - way, way better to be proactive with big loose stuff whenever possible. It's definitely in everyone's best interest that any rockfall that's going to potentially hit the track do so while the tracks are closed for that purpose with rail crews standing by to deal with it than something coming down through the signal fence on its own with everyone caught unaware and having to respond on a dime. And if folks really want to be involved with managing the resource at Beacon, then this is an explicit part of that job.

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Hey ya Ivan and other Beacon rascals, Due to the rain putting a damper on things lately, I would be willing to take a crew through the Deadhorse Cave again, if you Portlanders can make it out to Hood River. Anybody game for it? yes, its a little freaky, but what an experience! Perfect timing before the snow flies..

 

and Joe, I don't buy its part of the rock climbers responsibility to "manage" the rockfall for the railroad. If the railroad were to ask us to do it, then we should become involved. However, your suggestion seems like trying to cause problems where there are none. And of course some people are famous for that, with their silent agendas hidden from view.

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