ivan Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 beacon saturday - total failure on the new route to be: jensen's rectum - woulda been exciting climbing, but doable, were it not that jugging the fixed line was obviously a bad idea, just 20 feet off the ground - salvaged the day w/ a very, very windy frolic up the corner and a lap on windsurfer scene of my near death [video:youtube] mike on the slab - the irascible tappet bro numbero uno even made a brief appearnce on the ground con su novia [video:youtube] can someone please that pin back inthe corner notch? holy shit, if there's ever a need for pro there, its on a day like this, and there really is no proper gear to be had there [video:youtube] wind, wind, everywhere [video:youtube] half-baked memorial on the trail? curious trash [video:youtube] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 Good day Ivan! I was wondering if anyone was out down there. Almost made the trek but.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I saw #2 Tappet (#1?) unloading his car Saturday as we cruised by at @ 9:30...cig dangling out his mouth James Dean style as the wind bent the trees and howled. I honked (a tad late)... reached over and cranked the heater up as we continued down the road. Ivan, what happened to your jugging near death thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I saw #2 Tappet (#1?) unloading his car Saturday as we cruised by at @ 9:30...cig dangling out his mouth James Dean style as the wind bent the trees and howled. I honked (a tad late)... reached over and cranked the heater up as we continued down the road. Ivan, what happened to your jugging near death thing? where were you heading? does your secret crag also feature no wind? like to think i've learned my lesson on jugging - pretty much just use static lines these days, and if it feels wrong i stop - this time the wind was so strong it was causing me to swing, scarping the rope over 5-6 feet of roof per cycle, sending crazy vibrations down through the cord - it felt WRONG, and mike was going to have to follow me as well, so figured i'd be just as happy w/ an intact static line and life and a run up the corner in challenging conditions - now will the wind be not howling between now and birdie-closure date? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I'm free (weather permitting) tommorow till bout 2ish if anyone wants to do some bacon suffer-festing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miker Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 That was some windy shite, but a valiant effort for the day. I almost flapped like a flag finishing off the corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I'm free (weather permitting) tommorow till bout 2ish if anyone wants to do some bacon suffer-festing I may come out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 That was some windy shite, but a valiant effort for the day. I almost flapped like a flag finishing off the corner. You should read my Windy Day at Beacon report at: Windy Day at Beacon on OregonLive.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 3, 2011 Author Share Posted January 3, 2011 Only 28 more climbing days until the bullshit closure at Beacon. Better get out there before the poo starts to fly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 21 more days until climbers get picked on at Beacon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 just keep chop, chop, chopping there kev! now if only i can managed to get my ropes off the pipeline headwall by then... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Had to go out to rescue my gear off Psychic Wound. After trying to get to the top of the second pitch we had to bail. I down aided and then fell about 20 ft. when some of my body weight placements got tired. Soft catch by Steve, but set him and the porta-ledge for a ride. He lowered me off from that point. We pulled the rope and went back today to rap and clean the route. 34 pieces is what I cleaned. I was only 20 ft. from the anchor. DAMN IT! We rapped in successfully, and I cleaned the gear from the anchor I built off two bolts and a tri-cam. I had to pendulum over to my line but was able to pull it off. WOW is was windy today. We beat the storm and got back to the car and sorted gear. We finished sorting just as the snow started to fall in the parking lot. What a fun trip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Nice! Thanks Steve! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Holy crap, we were all sitting around the office turning up the heat today. Good on your guys for getting on it! Sweetness Plaid!.......uhhh.... is that a slight bit of a halo over Steves head there? Hot damn the man gets some bonus points for patience! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 how'd the ledge like them thare winds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 The ledge did not like the winds. It was like riding a bucking bronco at times but it made the belay stint much more relaxing and chill. I even had my foam pad and sleeping bag in the haul bag in case I had to warm up but never came to that. Those heat packets for the hands did the trick. The only REAL excitement was in the darkness when Plaid stripped a few pieces and yanked me and the ledge out of the Dutchman corner and into the Physic corner. I couldn't figure out where I was until I got my headlamp on and found I was out of the ledge just hanging there. tons of fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 more wounds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Plaid nears the sketchy section. That Bears in Heat crack to the left looks stellar, but looks like down low it would be tough to protect ckean. Anyone done it, freed it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 bears is a popular climb w/ the hardman-types - it's easy to aid if'n yer a coward so wtf? did ya'll spend the night out there? gnarly, gnarly. ya'll might like rapping into big ledge and spending hte night there before the closure - upper stephenwulf is a bitch'n aid climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 No, didn't spend the night. Just broke the ledge down and rapped in the dark. Will have to get on Bears next summer, ouch that hurts to say that. Less then 3 weeks left of the season. I might have to take your advice and get on Steppenwulf Ivan. Is it 1 pitch or 2 off of Big Ledge? Anchors good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 It is supposed to be stellar. I would go for some of that. I would even belay for ya. Owe ya man. I am still amped! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Wind report for 1/10/2011 and 1/11/2011 were suppose to be 60 to 70 at cascade locks and near 100 at crown point. I am trying verify that information. It was windy for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 No, didn't spend the night. Just broke the ledge down and rapped in the dark. Will have to get on Bears next summer, ouch that hurts to say that. Less then 3 weeks left of the season. I might have to take your advice and get on Steppenwulf Ivan. Is it 1 pitch or 2 off of Big Ledge? Anchors good? my tr from last january has good pix n' prose, and holy-shit, some actual useful beta: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=935755 you might like a short stickclip but it ain't essential - from big-ledge (and you can aid p1 of course - even in the damp it's not too hard to free to the cave belay, and then it's a long c1 pitch to big ledge), it's about 50 meters to a great stance and 4 belay bolts - there's a hanging belay along the way i recommend skipping - the first 25 meters in almost all gear, w/ 1 or 2 antique pin/pin-stacks you can clip, and very steep - past the hanging anchor it's mostly old bolts, w/ the occasional decent one thrown in - the times i've done it i've found a hand-placed beak, talon-hook and skyhook all necessary for that 2nd part (and its nice having the belayer down on big ledge so you don't fall into him, which is not impossible on the wackiest bolt ladder i've seen ). i have NOT done the last pitch to the top of the norseman's head (the trail is a simple scramble from there), but i did discover this summer a fat set of anchors and huge rap rings there. that last pitch looks serious, and fun! stephenwulf rocks - this time of year, for punkass aid climbers like ourselves, you'd be very, very hardpressed to go groudn to trail in a day. and big ledge itslef is a rocking place to spend the night - easy place to hang a ledge from and sleep, and you can still easily sit around and rock out on the ledge itself... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Thanks Ivan. It has to be a little more out of the wind then where we were. We will see what the weather allows here the next couple weeks,yeah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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