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Beacon


kevbone

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This coming season time for someone with some big bacon (Ivan?) to break the stigma of the Arena of Terror and nail right up thru that biatch. Can't be all that scary...or can it?

probably not a great idea for a clydesdale....

Hell, that's not a great idea for a stigmatic chihuahua.

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This coming season time for someone with some big bacon (Ivan?) to break the stigma of the Arena of Terror and nail right up thru that biatch. Can't be all that scary...or can it?

probably not a great idea for a clydesdale....

Hell, that's not a great idea for a stigmatic chihuahua.

 

 

let me know when it happens, i'll be there with a cooler full of beer and a lawn chair :)

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My old partner and I tried going straight up through the East Face roofs directly opposite where the trail takes it's first hard left at the big tree back in '87. Barely escaped that venture alive. The blocks up there were all fractured like pages in a book, very similar to what's exposed in the arena. I've stared up at that for hours in the past to see if it wasn't possible to do a direct start to 'Silver Crow', but I couldn't see any really plausible line which was protectable. It's all too loose and you're basically gonna deck and roll when you come off.

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The only climbing I do anymore is the 217 rung commute. Might dust off the shoes & rack when it warms up. I sure miss me Bacon. What are the local crags out near Walla Walla/Dayton?

 

Thread drift. Here are some shots from work. We get amazing sunrises/sets here so I thought I'd once again recommend any climber to get into wind jobs. Obviously, a good fit, in some ways. Hope you like the pics, sorry for the interruption.

 

Mostly phone pics so the quality could be better...

 

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Everything is better w Bacon...

 

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Anyone been out climbing on the NW side lately, Stone Soup or Spike route or Genesis or other? Probably to wet for anything but Stone Soup and the sport routes. Whos up for sending the 2nd pitch direct variation to Young Warriors this summer? It goes at about 10d/11a, eliminating the butt pitch, could be good for passing slower parties, but needs some cleaning as chossy and mossy, and needs a bolt or two. Keep up the Stoke, summers coming!

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climbed stone soup, first 2 pitches, a couple weeks ago, and that'll always go - you can skip the first 2 if you want and do the long "alpine route" in 1 60 meter lead to 3-tree ledge (or break it into 2 pitches - they're mostly gross, but go in all weathers)

 

at any rate, that lets you just enjoy the upper pitches to the cool top-out - very reasonable for a day outing, whereas the complete stone-soup don't get done in its entirety too often thataways...

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Anyone been out climbing on the NW side lately, Stone Soup or Spike route or Genesis or other? Probably to wet for anything but Stone Soup and the sport routes. Whos up for sending the 2nd pitch direct variation to Young Warriors this summer? It goes at about 10d/11a, eliminating the butt pitch, could be good for passing slower parties, but needs some cleaning as chossy and mossy, and needs a bolt or two. Keep up the Stoke, summers coming!

 

Keep in mind many bolts have gone in most of the multiple variations on pitch two. All bolts have been removed. I am all for it myself. There are at least three different ways to link it together. I say do it. The best way is up and right of the anchor (all gear) then step left into the crack. This move is probably 10.a and will be extremely bold without a bolt. Matter of fact this variation was completely bolted at one point about 15 years ago but got chopped within a week. I am one of the few who climbed it all on bolts. But I would be in support of one bolt there at the crux move. After stepping left into the crack (with said bolt) the rest is in the perfect crack that goes up to the second pitch anchor. This would be an excellent option for the butthole pitch. I will even offer the bolt myself.

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