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kevbone
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i've only done the upper pitches twice now, the lower a half dozen i reckon? maybe it's my favorite guess it alwasy scares the piss out of me? :) the upper pitches have the most intense exposure to be had out at the rock

 

 

the exit moves on the first pitch are sweet. never been that god of a free climber to bust out the second one Alan Lester styler...

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i've only done the upper pitches twice now, the lower a half dozen i reckon? maybe it's my favorite guess it alwasy scares the piss out of me? :) the upper pitches have the most intense exposure to be had out at the rock

 

 

the exit moves on the first pitch are sweet. never been that god of a free climber to bust out the second one Alan Lester styler...

christ, the exit is fucking impossible - i've always had to use a runner as a stirrup to get through it - i'm happy when i only have to french half the route kev :)

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free for all is the best sustained 5-8/5-9 crack climbing within 100 miles of portland. (once you're past the short sharp 10minus corner right off the ground)

 

back in june i did the 4 pitch "the line" at lover's leap, supposedly one of the best 5-9s anywhere, and while it was stellar, i found free for all even better a few weeks later...

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The Leap is fantastic. Love that place. I think Corrugation Corner is better than the Line, better even than Travelers Buttress which is a 50 classics of North America selection, and is perhaps one of the better 5.7's on the planet. Better than anything around here including Beacon and Smith IMO.

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back in june i did the 4 pitch "the line" at lover's leap, supposedly one of the best 5-9s anywhere, and while it was stellar, i found free for all even better a few weeks later...

 

What? I hope your joking. Are we talking about the same Leap and the same Beacon Rock? The Leap makes Beacon Rock look like a teetering choss heap (which it is)

 

But since were talking about it, let's put my vote on Free for Some linked into Dodd's, lot of bang for the buck.

 

 

Edited by eldiente
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If I'm doing the driving, then the best climb at Index is at Squamish.

 

For favorite I'd probably go with FFA > Dods > Dastardly to the trail. It's what I take folks up who want a representative slice of Beacon. If they can't do 5.10 then I'll take them up YW or the Corner instead.

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The best climb at Beacon is at Index.

if all these scientist pricks would quit fucking their lab-assistants and finally invent a teleporter i'd do a hell of a lot more climbing at index (especially if it could dump me off right at the base of the upper wall :) )

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I know the one. It gets me every time. About half way up. It makes it the hardest 5.8 anywhere.

 

Plaidman

 

The hardest 5.8 anywhere? Riiiight. Let me guess, the opening moves on Nine Gallon makes it the hardest 5.9 anywhere, right?

 

A grade is a grade is a grade....

 

Nope, I know where the hardest 5.5 in the state is....but I'm not sayin'.....

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