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[TR] Yosemite Valley - Wrap-up: two weeks in The Valley 10/11/2009


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Trip: Yosemite Valley - Wrap-up: two weeks in The Valley

 

Date: 10/11/2009

 

Trip Report:

Sep 27 through Oct 11: my fifth annual Fall trip to The Valley. Good times as usual, including my first ever big wall. :crazy:

 

The sum of it:

  • Munginella - II, 5.6 (led p2)
  • Church Bowl Lieback - I, 5.8 (led)
  • Revival - I, 5.10a (TR)
  • The Grack, Center - II, 5.6 (led p1,3)
  • The Grack, Left - II, 5.7 (led p2)
  • Sloth Wall - I, 5.7 (followed)
  • Just for Starters - I, 5.10a (led)
  • Anti Ego Grack - I, 5.7 (led)
  • Turkey Pie - I, 5.7 (TR)
  • Nurdle - I, 5.8 (led)
  • Sherrie's Crack - I, 5.10c (TR)
  • Royal Arches - III, 5.7 A0 (led p1; simuled p2-4; led p5, 6; simuled p7; led p9, 11, 12, 15) **3rd ascent and still fun :tup:
  • The Goblet, Center - I, 5.6 (led)
  • The Goblet, Right - I, 5.8/9 (TR)
  • Goodrich Pinnacle - II+, 5.9R (led p3-7)
  • Knob Job - I, 5.10b (led p2, 5.8)
  • Sherrie's Crack - I, 5.10c (TR)
  • Babble On - I, 5.10a off-width (followed)
  • Suds - I, 5.9 (led)
  • Boneheads - I, 5.10b (led - sport route)
  • Crest Jewel - III, 5.10a (led p1, 2, 4, 6, 8)
  • Highway Star - I, 5.10a/b (TR)
  • Southern Man - V, C2 5.9 (led p3 free 5.8; led p7 C1 5.7)
  • Copper Penny - I, 5.10a off-width (followed)
  • Five and Dime - I, 5.10d (followed)

Pictorial highlights:

 

The Grack, Glacier Point Apron

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Sloth Wall, Knob Hill

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A0 pendulum, Royal Arches

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Pitch 14, Royal Arches

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Pitch 3, Crest Jewel

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Pitch 7, Crest Jewel

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Half Dome panorama from North Dome

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Crest Jewel summit shot

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Washington Column

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Pitch 4, Southern Man

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Chillin' on Dinner Ledge, Washington Column

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Sunset on El Cap from Washington Column

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Jugging on day two of Southern Man

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Pitch 6, Southern Man

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Climber on South Face of Washington Column

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Jugging pitch 6, Southern Man

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Leading pitch 7, Southern Man

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Final rap off Washington Column

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Our progress on Southern Man - we climbed 7 of the 10 pitches

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Seth leading Copper Penny

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The perils of off-width crack climbing

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View 'em all: Yosemite 2009 photos

 

Gear Notes:

Placed my first #6 Camalot, bought some offset nuts too...

 

Approach Notes:

Absolutely NO deadly manzanita bushwhacks and unplanned bivies!

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Crest Jewel is very nice, particularly if you're a slab aficionado. We chose to drive to the Porcupine Creek trailhead from The Valley (~1:15) and do the 5 mile approach on easy trail, skirting down alongside North Dome to the base of CJ. Meant a simple hike back to the car from the top of ND after the climb instead of descending North Dome Gully to The Valley.

 

Goodrich Pinnacle was another, I'd tried it twice before and had been weathered off both attempts. Some of the trickiest slab route-finding I've ever done. Worth checking out route beta on supertopo.com beforehand...

 

Pat and Jack's Pinnacle is a great crag - some great trad climbs (Sherrie's Crack, Nurdle, Knob Job) and even one of the best sport climbs I've ever lead (Boneheads). Church Bowl Lieback is classic and another (unlisted) Church Bowl must-do would be Bishop's Terrace - 200 feet of some of the best 5.8 crack on the planet.

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