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Plaidman

Yosemite - Wide Tour

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thats not really the question. the place for personal vendettas is not the climbers board.

 

Photo from the gallery (will strickland)

Ahab1.jpg

 

 

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Just got the old school wide list from the desk of Ed Hartouni.

Pink_List.jpg

BlueList.jpg

 

Boy am I going to be busy.

 

Plaidman

Edited by Plaidman

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Many pictures and some really crappy video.

The video will be edited for content.

Mostly ...struggle struggle OW Damn it #@%@#%$%.

And some more ... struggle struggle OW Damn it #@%@#%$%. Son of a @#@$#%%.

 

Plaidman

 

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I don't know what difficulty you want, but Jam Session (.10b) and Cream (.11a) are two of the finest wide cracks in the valley, and are only about 30' apart. Both splitter cracks on really good rock, kind of a PITA approach, but worth it. Energy Crisis (.11+, basically a full pitch of rings and finger stacks)is also right there and is a SUPER pitch in a pumpy enduro fashion. Those three pitches rival anything of similar style, and if the approach was more straightforward they'd get tons of traffic.

 

Jam Session gradually widens all the way up, Cream is a little steeper and has some classic true Offwidth size (i.e. too big for fist, too small for knee). Crux is fairly low, widens further up and gets easier but may feel a tad run up there.

 

Mental Block and/or Power Point are good for multi-pitch too. (You can always rap PP after the wide if you're not down for the 11+ face crux up top).

 

Another you might try if you're in the Reeds Pinnacle area is Copper Penny 10a 6" behind a flake, on the Five and Dime wall right below Reeds. (Five and Dime is also fantastic at 10+ with a rings crux and some pumpy wide hands up top, a classic for sure).

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Have you done the third pitch of Reed's Direct? I don't remember much except that is was hard and akward and difficult to protect.

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have you done the 2nd pitch of wrong gull at beacon, esse? it's supposed to be valley 10c and it's turned out to be the only beacon route i've tried so far that i could even CHEAT my way up :) (that said, if you get desperate like i did after 2 30 footers, you can find a way to bail out into a thin crack halfway up that gets you to the belay below the 2 pins on right gull.

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What happened was I got sick of Pink's insistence on poking at John F on every opportunity.

 

Sorry - I didn't catch this, thought you were just f*king with Andrew. (I guess you were too LOL) John F is a great guy, solid climber but just a solid person too, anyone who knows him or gets out with him knows this. While we wait: here's some Vally stokage to get Scott warmed up.

 

Oh, Will: on the 5.11 wyde stuff, Scott has to walk before he can run!

 

 

 

 

Andrew Trzynka on Sacherer Cracker. Tape your ankles or were the old school socks/hightops combo for this one.

Andrew_leading_Sacher_Cracker_small.jpg

Steve_Lyford and Stan_Miller up on Butterballs on the Cookie.

Steve_Lyford_and_Stan_Miller_toproping_Butterballs.jpg

 

Visting with Werner and Merry Braun.

Andrew_talking_to_Werner_and_Merry_Braun.jpg

 

Stan Miller on Lower Cathedral

Stan_Miller_on_Lower_Cathedral.jpg

Andrew on same with the awesome local Dave Hardin below taking a rest.

Andrew_Trzynka_on_Lower_Cathedral_small.jpg

 

In case we need any hook or beak pictures, fortunately the price tags were removed and all those Toucans have been used now.

Hooks_and_beaks_resized.jpg

 

Easy local wide: FA of Dulcina

Dulcina_first_ascent_resized_smaller.jpg

 

Couple of FA of Bride of Wyde, local wide. Fish copied the forum post and made it a trip report PDF on Wide Fetish. Good site if you are so sick as to indulge in that wide stuff.

Bride_of_Wyde_FA_6_camalot_move_2_small.jpg

Bride_of_Wyde_FA_6_camalot_move_3_small.jpg

 

You should run out and do Bride of Wyde as a warm up, In sequence, your pro is #4,5 6 and then an optional #4 Bro.

 

 

Here's Werner's pic of a young John Bachar on Cream:

creammk6.jpg

 

Check out the swami and the pro, one more reason not to fall.

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Last Sunday, didn't go climbing: too tired. However, did go try and spot a potential new cliff, and our little dog Sadie met a new buddy and got to share the new friends toy.

 

Sadie_makes_a_friend_and_borrows_the_ball.jpg

 

...for a while.

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Merry following Werner on Sacherer Cracker.

 

resized_Merry_on_Sacherer_Cracker.jpg

 

here's a good one of the Upper part of Sacherer. Werner just getting to the business part. Good one for your Scott as its nice that you get real good pro before you get high up there and get your ass and forearms kicked on the wide part.

 

resized_Werner_on_Upper_Sacherer_Cracker.jpg

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Werner's socks went up the route under his rock shoes for protection.

resized_Werners_socks.jpg

resized_Werner_and_Merry_base_of_Sacherer_Cracker.jpg

 

resized_Werner_on_Sacherer_Cracker.jpg

 

Me later on Knob Job:

resized_Bill_on_Knob_Job.JPG

 

It had been years since I'd done this route, probably had EBs on the last time, and I remember it going up and right and as real stiff. So my buddies are all like "No, it's only 10b dude". When I got to the top and started up and right, they're like: "whoh dude, where are you going?" "That's something else, some runout 10d, go left and up and it's a 5.8 finish"....Ahhhhhhh haaa - love guidebooks and alert buddies.

 

I don't see any pics of Moby Dick right, thats a good one too right there Scott.

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Something we used with good effect was to take a picture of the topo in the book, and if you needed to look at it at the belay stance, just turn on the camera in view mode and zoom as needed. Then delete it off your camera later.

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Really? Those aren't even pictures of wide cracks. They're pictures of your dog and some old dude's socks.

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I have more pictures of socks if you need Pete.. LOL! Share your pics of the valley.

 

Must have been too gripped to take pics of Moby dick.

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Some of them.

 

I'm missing a #4 Vermin Hook, think I took it out to Beacon and it was reshuffled in one of those ledge scenes on it takes a village of 12 climbers to watch Ivan.

 

Ivan, that was your lead off the ledge: do you have an extra large hook? If so, it's yours to keep since you (obviously) need it more than me, I just want to know. It's the 2nd from the large size. Verm quit, so these great hooks are impossible to obtain now.

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bill, i don't have yer vermin hook, though i would like one - dunno what happened w/ it, nor do i remember even carrying it - can i blame larry?

 

pink - uh - what? i musta missed something on page 1? :)

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Yosemite off-widths is the topic.

 

Well, Scotts into hooks and besides isn't hooks wat some use when da offwidth is too hard? ..... just sayin'....

 

ps Pete H, Sacherer is thin, then hands then a offwidth then squeeze. The OW part didn't come out very clear. Same with Bride of Wyde, thin then hands, fists, OW then squeeze. Unless you're fat. Then ya lieback it some, maybe get a chickenwing in.

 

pic of me liebacking some on it:

layback_hold_Bride_of_Wyde_small.jpg

 

9" Valley Giant. I don't loan those out.

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actually, sacher cracker starts with some weird ass 5.7 offwidthy shit...hahahaha

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Tyree on The Ear, P18 of the Salathe Wall, perhaps the hardest 5.7+ in the valley:

3392IMG_2787.JPG

 

 

Myself, getting fully throttled in the Harding Slot on Astroman:

Astroman_6.JPG

 

 

 

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