Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
kiefner

Route Recommendations for Oct 2-4th?

Recommended Posts

Can anyone recommend good mountaineering or alpine rock routes for this weekend? I've read most of the TR's and haven't found many mountaineering routes that appear to be in good shape this time of year.

 

I have a buddy coming in from Utah this weekend. We're both experienced mountaineers and rock climbers. Possible ideas we've tossed around are Rainier, Shucksan via Sulphide, or Baker. (Nothing too ambitious due to the variable weather forecast)

 

Please give me some good tips; I need to show him that our Cascades are better than Utah's Wasatch! (Last time he visited in March we got skunked due to extreme avy danger.) Thank you in advance!

 

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

there's snow in the hills with these recent systems which should straighten out a lot of the glacier routes as long as it gets some time to settle...that and next week's weather looks stellar...i'd say your best bet out of the three would be Shuksan...the Sulphide is mellow and easily traversed late season and the summit will give a taste of rock, albeit loose...if you search the Shuksan TR's there is a nice mid-5th alternative to the gulley ascent of the pyramid that would give your friend a great taste of Cascade climbing...that and i think the views into the North Cascades are some of the most impressive

 

good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Baker was a bit of a death trap before it stared snowing, FYI. The Easton was considered "impassable" by the guides and the Roman Wall was being pelted from above by the "grey band", the edge of the normally hidden summit crater (Carmelo Crater). The CD route was also exposed to considerable ice fall from east of Colfax Peak. A guide reported needing 9.5h to get to the summit from the top of the Hogsback, with a strong client, multiple belayed crevasse crossings, ice fall, and significant objective hazards and fear.

 

There will probably be at least a foot of new snow by the time this system plays out, on top of very hard late season snow and ice, which would make for very poor bonding and increased avalanche danger, IMHO.

 

Check out Scurlock's picture:

 

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/117410889

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a buddy coming in from Utah this weekend. We're both experienced mountaineers and rock climbers. Possible ideas we've tossed around are Rainier, Shucksan via Sulphide, or Baker. (Nothing too ambitious due to the variable weather forecast)

 

Obviously you haven't done much mountaineering in Washington because you're probably going to get skunked again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Baker was a bit of a death trap before it stared snowing, FYI. The Easton was considered "impassable" by the guides and the Roman Wall was being pelted from above by the "grey band", the edge of the normally hidden summit crater (Carmelo Crater). The CD route was also exposed to considerable ice fall from east of Colfax Peak. A guide reported needing 9.5h to get to the summit from the top of the Hogsback, with a strong client, multiple belayed crevasse crossings, ice fall, and significant objective hazards and fear.

 

There will probably be at least a foot of new snow by the time this system plays out, on top of very hard late season snow and ice, which would make for very poor bonding and increased avalanche danger, IMHO.

 

Check out Scurlock's picture:

 

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/117410889

 

i agree Baker's in poor shape and prob not the best chance for success...but i dont think as nearly as bad as you're making it sound...unless things have drastically changed in the past few days...Dan was just up there and skied the CD from 10.3k and while the objective dangers may be high it's still passable to the summit with a little spice...he did it solo btw

 

Dan's TR from last week

 

The route up looked like it had not seen crampon point in at least a day, and was a little difficult to follow, but the crevasses -- although numerous and intimidating at times -- were easily negotiated, with few sketchyish bridges -- all and all -- the CD is in better condition crevasse wise than the last 2 years I've been up there, unlike the Easton which is currently heinously crevassed.
Edited by t_rutl

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Baker was a bit of a death trap before it stared snowing, FYI. The Easton was considered "impassable" by the guides and the Roman Wall was being pelted from above by the "grey band", the edge of the normally hidden summit crater (Carmelo Crater). The CD route was also exposed to considerable ice fall from east of Colfax Peak. A guide reported needing 9.5h to get to the summit from the top of the Hogsback, with a strong client, multiple belayed crevasse crossings, ice fall, and significant objective hazards and fear.

 

There will probably be at least a foot of new snow by the time this system plays out, on top of very hard late season snow and ice, which would make for very poor bonding and increased avalanche danger, IMHO.

 

Check out Scurlock's picture:

 

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/117410889

 

i agree Baker's in poor shape and prob not the best chance for success...but i dont think as nearly as bad as you're making it sound...unless things have drastically changed in the past few days...Dan was just up there and skied the CD from 10.3k and while the objective dangers may be high it's still passable to the summit with a little spice...he did it solo btw

 

Dan's TR from last week

 

The route up looked like it had not seen crampon point in at least a day, and was a little difficult to follow, but the crevasses -- although numerous and intimidating at times -- were easily negotiated, with few sketchyish bridges -- all and all -- the CD is in better condition crevasse wise than the last 2 years I've been up there, unlike the Easton which is currently heinously crevassed.

 

He also said:

 

"That whole upper area above the cleaver is a shooting gallery -- at about 10k a milk-quart size rock was rolling towards me in high speed lobs, and exploded into fragments 10 feet away on exposed pebble ice, shrapnel whizzed past as I attempted to protect my face etc..."

 

If getting smashed is your idea of "spice", go for it, but I wouldn't recommend the route to someone who feels the need to ask about it right now as an option for this weekend.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If getting smashed is your idea of "spice", go for it, but I wouldn't recommend the route to someone who feels the need to ask about it right now as an option for this weekend.

i didnt recommend it...i said in my first post that out of the 3 he listed Shuksan would prob be his best bet and gave a suggestion to avoid any loose rock in the gulley

 

my only point was that 9.5 hrs from the Hogsback seemed excessive and the ROUTE is not in as bad of shape as you made it out to be...

 

to quote myself: "while the objective dangers may be high it is still passible to the summit with a little spice"

 

dont make it out to sound like i said anything more than i did

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You're facing kind of a tough weather forecast/conditions this weekend. I'd go east, WA Pass for less committing day routes, or Stuart Range if you're feeling lucky, but expect freezing poo from above. The big glaciated peaks will probably suck so much ass this weekend, cuz, you know, that's why they have glaciers on them.

 

Perhaps a run up Goose Egg Mountain followed by some Tieton cragging might be in order.

Edited by tvashtarkatena

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

with soft new snow to cushion/absorb rockfall on baker(assumeing there is new soft snow) that hazard will be reduced -- but new wind drifted snow will likely hide a few deep crevasses, no big deal if you are roped and practiced at that kind of thing. if you go up the roman wall -- watch out for a big nasty moat at the top (could possibly be egshell covered after this new snow) that's likely going to be a dangerous situation this fall untill we get a few good storms. there're probably some touchy slabs up there now too, which might turn to wet slabs with the forecasted sun ++ fr levels next week...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You're facing kind of a tough weather forecast/conditions this weekend. I'd go east, WA Pass for less committing day routes, or Stuart Range if you're feeling lucky, but expect freezing poo from above. The big glaciated peaks will probably suck so much ass this weekend, cuz, you know, that's why they have glaciers on them.

 

Perhaps a run up Goose Egg Mountain followed by some Tieton cragging might be in order.

 

Yep. Snow down to low elevations so be prepared for cold conditions if you go alpine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If getting smashed is your idea of "spice", go for it, but I wouldn't recommend the route to someone who feels the need to ask about it right now as an option for this weekend.

i didnt recommend it...i said in my first post that out of the 3 he listed Shuksan would prob be his best bet and gave a suggestion to avoid any loose rock in the gulley

 

my only point was that 9.5 hrs from the Hogsback seemed excessive and the ROUTE is not in as bad of shape as you made it out to be...

 

to quote myself: "while the objective dangers may be high it is still passible to the summit with a little spice"

 

dont make it out to sound like i said anything more than i did

 

A more careful read would indicate that I didn't say YOU had recommended it, but instead that I wouldn't. Yes. It is passable to the summit if you are willing to expose yourself to serious objective hazards, such as being pelted from above by rocks for the last 1000 or so feet to the summit or being crushed by a calving glacier. Good luck with that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Scurlock would probably know, but I doubt it.

 

I thought the Shuksan/Sulphide was a good suggestion for a climb once the weather improves, otherwise head east.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Carmelo Crater's been mapped with ground (ice) penetrating radar.

Check out Scurlock's picture:

 

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/117410889

 

That's a bloody amazing picture. Has Mt Baker's summit ever been so bare of snow and ice in our lifetimes?

 

I suppose that depends how old you are? I am informed that it is "probable[sic] the scoria rim that we first see in the 1940 USGS vertical air photos". Anyone know of or have access to these?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

i agree Baker's in poor shape and prob not the best chance for success...but i dont think as nearly as bad as you're making it sound...

 

 

Third-hand account: "he reported he was ‘extremely anxious the entire route and even frightened a time or two’. In addition to the ice and rock fall, the Coleman route is mostly very hard glacier ice, with many large crevasses to end run, jump across on ice screw belays, or steep rock-studded ice slopes to descend and ascend. The top of the Roman Wall above the Pumice Ridge is a sheet of talus on ice, with a steady barrage of rock fall coming off the newly exposed Carmelo Crater rim all the time"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay Choada and Rutl,

 

Maybe you two should take your argument elsewhere and stop distracting from this thread's request for a route for this weekend?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe not. I'm clearly trying to un-recommend Baker right now.

 

Here are some recommendations:

 

Prusik in a day

Snow Creek Wall link-up (Orbit & Outerspace)

WA Pass (but it's probably got some new snow up there) Blue Buttress Pika Peak (or whatever it's called)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You're right goatboy, but I am hoping for a little fresh snow that may stick .. or not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Okay Choada and Rutl,

 

Maybe you two should take your argument elsewhere and stop distracting from this thread's request for a route for this weekend?

it's ok gb...i gave up trying to get through...first he agrees that i didnt recommend Baker now has to perpetuate to "un-recommend" my recommendation? but i dont see it as an argument...got nothing against him as i dont know him but do think he's a respectable climber and his warnings have merit

 

on topic:

sunday's weather looks fairly promising...if a (long) day trip maybe Twin Sisters or something in the Mountain Loop Hwy area?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×