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Josh Lewis

Question about the Top of Sahale

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Sahale is on my spot light for my birthday weekend. I hear the last 40 or so feet are a bit class 4ish or so, how bad is it? Is it something like "be causious" or "don't attempt the last part without rock protection"? Or perhaps is there a way that goes around part of the side to the summit? Just wondering, which I would be roped up for the glacier section which is short, but I do not own any rock protection. If it's safe enough, Sahale is a go!

P.S. Don't mention the road washout, I would bike that part.

 

I found an image of near the summit (the photo was not taken by me)

026%20Looking%20Up%20Towards%20Summit%20Block%20On%20Descent.jpg

Edited by Josh Lewis

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It's not the going up that's scary, it's coming down. If you feel comfortable downclimbing 4th class, do it, but make sure your partner is ready for it. Another option is to take your glacier rope to the summit and rappel down the 4th class section, but don't belay up if you don't have pro.

 

Of course, if you have to question your decision up there, and it worries you, turn around if you don't have the materials. Safety is key.

 

-Mark

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Becky says for the South route, ascend the path on the Sahale arm, then follow the western margin of the Sahale Glacier to the final rock slabs. Climb the SE corner (a gully is easiest) to the sharp rock summit, the last bit is class 3 or 4. Crampons advisable after mid summer. Summit 8680 ft.

 

If you can lead the glacier on Baker you should be able to solo Sahale up and down. The glacier on Sahale probably doesn't even need roping up, it's not that big like the one's on Baker.

 

My advice though is to descend the same why you ascend. Keep an eye out for black bears, if you camp overnight hang your food at least 100 ft away.

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I would disagree, the upper part of the Quien Sabe can be steep and icey this time of year. The 4th class is easy going up and you can rappel easily down with 40-50 meter rope.

 

You can solo, just be prepared for some ice from 7,700' to 8,500'and a few larger crevasses.

 

There usually is an anchor at the top to rappel from.

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I would disagree, the upper part of the Quien Sabe can be steep and icey this time of year. The 4th class is easy going up and you can rappel easily down with 40-50 meter rope.

 

You can solo, just be prepared for some ice from 7,700' to 8,500'and a few larger crevasses.

 

There usually is an anchor at the top to rappel from.

 

He's going up the Sahale Arm route, not the Quien Sabe. I lent him my glacier rope yesterday. He's going with one other person, and he says that if it gets too technical or dangerous, he will be fine turning around.

 

-Mark

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I'm back! Just got home recently. Mark, I can give you your rope tommorow if you want or the next day which I may have to bike to your house. I turned around 100 feet from the summit... I was on the SW Ridge which it looked worse that class 4 to me, although I did find a class 4 looking route as I went down which because it was getting late and if I got hurt, I was very far from the car (20 miles) I decided it was not worth it. I had an awesome trip, and perhaps tommorow a trip report coming. Thanks all for your support. Cheers Josh Lewis.

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Sweet! I was very worried about you. I thought you got hurt or worse! Good job turning around. The mountain will always be there, we can climb it another time. I'll bring rock pro and lead the last part.

 

You'll have to tell me about it!

 

-Mark

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Climb the SE corner (a gully is easiest) to the sharp rock summit, the last bit is class 3 or 4.

 

That's where I screwed up! I got my SE and SW mixed up. I was looking up the last 100 feet on the SW Ridge and thinking "No way!" which I was on the wrong ridge! Well mabe next month.

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the sun rises in the East and sets in the West

 

also you should always carry a compass, it's very nice in a white-out or overcast when you can't see the sun.

 

did you take the bike?

 

next month you'll need skis or snowshoes

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the sun rises in the East and sets in the West

 

also you should always carry a compass, it's very nice in a white-out or overcast when you can't see the sun.

 

did you take the bike?

 

next month you'll need skis or snowshoes

 

I knew what was east and west, the problem was as I got almost to the top not only was it getting late, my brothers crampons not working but from where I was looking it did not seem safe. (which I was on the wrong ridge)

p1330070_20090928_1671684625.jpg

 

I indeed took a bike up. Great time, perhaps either next year, or mabe in Mid to late October depending on when the road opens. Is Sahale dangerous during this time of year?

 

As for my above photo, I climbed up a part of that which I went up one of the cracks on the left, even that was a little worry some which in real life was steeper than what the photo appears.

Edited by Josh Lewis

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