fishburneiv Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 Long story short. A series of events resulted in rapping off the South side of Dragontail after climbing the Serpentine Arete on Friday. I haven't seen any beta on this descent, so I thought I would just mention that the second rap station is way to the left (east) of where you touch down from the first, and the third is hanging (two nuts and a sketchy wedged rock as "backup"). Moreover, the last two (of three) are very nearly 30m, so make sure you're on a 60m rope and watch the ends. Best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Unless I am confused, there is no rap needed for descending off of dragontail. When you say the south side, I am assuming you mean from teh summit, down towards little anapurna, than around to asguard pass. There is a nice snow hill to walk down it you walk to the skiers right a ways. It may be hard ice right now, which would explain the raps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Before I had ever been up Dragontail, I had read a lot about potentially rapping for the descent. Once I actually reached the summit I didn't understand at all. It was strictly a walk-off for me. Although in late season it is probably pretty icy. Â I'd imagine raps are sketch since few do them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 The descent is strictly a walk off. Â However, I understand the confusion. There are a series of cairns heading off skiers left of the summit. These lead to some rap slings. If you come out East? of the summit and do not top out, you might be tricked into thinking this is the regular descent? Â I climbed Backbone two weeks ago and due to the icy conditions we opted to not head skiers right toward the snow slope (regular descent). We followed the cairns skiers left. We found only a single 30m rappel. Following this we descended climbers left and picked our way to the basin. FWIW, I though this was a good way to descend if you encounter icy conditions sans pons or axe as we did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishburneiv Posted September 22, 2009 Author Share Posted September 22, 2009 I don't neccessarily want to get into the specifics of this climb in order to avoid the common assumptions, comments, and criticisms that would likely follow. Needless to say, we made some mistakes and had some shit happen. Â I will say, however, that if you travel (with caution) skiers left after the first rap, you will find a second rap station at the far end of a slightly lower ledge. It must be used as it had plenty of (albeit older) slings and rope peices. This rap ends 30m down on a sheer hanging rap (as described above) that takes another full 30m to the bottom. Â Next time I'll walk off! Â Best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 yep, it goes with a few raps. that way you don't have to take an axe or crampons... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvl Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 I am looking at Climbing dragontail from the colchuck glacier this weekend, are there any recomendations about decending via asguard, or heading back via the colchuck col and glacier. I'll probably be able to figure it out once I am there, but it would be nice to know before hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 I am looking at Climbing dragontail from the colchuck glacier this weekend, are there any recomendations about decending via asguard, or heading back via the colchuck col and glacier. I'll probably be able to figure it out once I am there, but it would be nice to know before hand. Â I assume you're going to climb one of the rock routes. To avoid the hard snow/ice on the backside of Dragontail, you can hike due east around the backside of the Witch's Tower formations, then scramble easily down (north) to the main Enchantments trail back to Asgaard Pass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 I have ascended the Colchuck in late season and would prefer to not descend it. This time of year would require crampons and ax. With those tools on board it would be much faster to descend the east side snow field and Asgard. I have not done the rap but would plan on it if I were doing DT this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 I think I talked to you guys as you were hiking out and we were hiking in. Â I ended up descending the icefield from the col to Aasgard with alum cramps and a small axe. It was a 15 ft 5.5 step at the top and about 100 yds of 30 deg crunchy ice. Also talked to a guy that went around Witches Tower, but that looked like it was a further distance. Â You should do a TR, it sounds like you guys got the full meal deal. Â there's beta on this descent on SummitPost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishburneiv Posted September 26, 2009 Author Share Posted September 26, 2009 If you put those raps in place kurthics, I hope you didn't take offense at my description. Next time I'm up I'll probably add a biner or two, but they seemed solid, well-placed, and did the trick! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishburneiv Posted September 26, 2009 Author Share Posted September 26, 2009 I hope you and your partner had a killer time Buckaroo. The "full meal deal," as you say, was a good deal of stupidity. Maybe I'll TR next time. Â By the way, did you happen to find a camera (or camera pieces) half way up the route? Â Best, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 We didn't climb Serpentine. I went by myself and climbed the descent. Â You weren't stupid just got benighted, it could happen to anyone. Even though you don't have pics cuz you lost the camera it would still be an interesting TR. Sometimes the forced bivy TR's are more interesting than the ones that went as planned. Â When you go up without a full description of the route and descent, that's called beta-min climbing, some people do it on purpose just for the adventure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky_joe Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 Just had a wee epic (TR coming?) on Serpentine friday and can definitely say that, without 'pons and an axe there is no way to "walk-off" without hitting the glacier (solid ice) or going all the way around little annapurna (unacceptably far). Thomas and I rapped. The first is down skiers left at the obvious end of 3rd class ledges, it is three slightly aged blue slings around a bomber horn. about 20m to another decent ledge with one horn. The horn is well slung by old gear, but now has a bright piece of orange webbing to go with some red cord. about 25-27m to hanging rap. the station is interesting. we found a 2 stopper (#10, 5) and a pink tricam, "backed-up" by a worthless chockstone (i could pull it out of the crack. we added a blue stopper to the mix and rapped off that, the 10 and the tricam (small stopper placement was a little far down for the cord we had). bottom line on this station, cool rap from a bomb proof anchor. definitely a fair way to get off the hill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 Just had a wee epic (TR coming?) on Serpentine friday and can definitely say that, without 'pons and an axe there is no way to "walk-off" without hitting the glacier (solid ice) or going all the way around little annapurna (unacceptably far). Â climbed Serpentine Arete Saturday, and walked around Witche's Tit, a scrambled class 3 rock down (North) to the trail, safely back to Asgard Pass. I started down about the same time two guys were setting up their first rap, and I was back at the pass as they were still picking their way down. You don't need to go all the way to L. Annapurna at all. In fact, not even close to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 nice slideshow John! glad to see you got out and had some fun on Saturday after anchoring the campfire on friday night! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky_joe Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 climbed Serpentine Arete Saturday, and walked around Witche's Tit, a scrambled class 3 rock down (North) to the trail, safely back to Asgard Pass. I started down about the same time two guys were setting up their first rap, and I was back at the pass as they were still picking their way down. You don't need to go all the way to L. Annapurna at all. In fact, not even close to it. Â what time were you coming down the mountain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Around 4pm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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