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thelawgoddess

partner wanted for a day of ice

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looking for a partner to go with me on my first "real ice" climb. just a day trip during the week. north face of observation rock if it's still good?

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I've heard Observation is a dirty snowball right now; not sure of what else might be "in" as far as a good route.

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Not sure how much dirty snowball might accumulate in one week up there but it was icy last weekend. It looked dirty from far away but it was pretty good up close. [Confused]

 

[big Drink] I'd climb it again too but not planing on it this yea.

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we climbed a wicked styro snow and ice line on unnamed pt 8500 Saturday, near gold bridge but thats a long drive for washingtonians. however i saw several little anemic waterfalls formed up at thebase of the face and presume similar conditions will occur over about 7500 feet anywhere in the range should temperatures stay coolish this week.

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

dinnerplating ice. Some running water...

hey cavey, you know i don't know anything. this sounds good if you're hungry and thirsty, but what exactly does that mean for ice climbing?

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Dinner plates are what crash on your head when you swing at the ice too hard and too many times, running water is what happens when ice melts, typicaly not a good thing when you are climbing it...mostly because you get all wet.

 

Having Dinner plates and running water at the same time is kinda odd. Usualy you have one or the other depending on temps...dinner plates when its cold, melting plastic ice when its warm.

 

[ 10-22-2002, 02:33 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Lambone:

Having Dinner plates and running water at the same time is kinda odd. Usualy you have one or the other depending on temps...dinner plates when its cold, melting plastic ice when its warm.

This statement applies more to waterfall ice than to alpine ice.

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quote:

Originally posted by Lambone:

Usualy you have one or the other depending on temps...dinner plates when its cold, melting plastic ice when its warm.

maybe they climbed real slow.

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quote:

Originally posted by greenfork:

I will be leading a 100$ per-dinner-plate climb there if anyone is interested.

which campagin will the finds be directed too?? com'on this is cc.com where is all comes down to right or left......

 

[laf]

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it will be used to nuke baby seal pups for jesus. personal checks accepted.

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Would not a more appropriate title for this post be: “Wanted: Rope Gun” ? [Eek!]

 

Just joking w/you TLG! [big Grin]

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Observation was not so bad last week.

Sergio and I hit in late morning and started the 1st pitch simul climbing

 

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but what sucked was i had no screws with me, and he only had 2, and our pickets were worthless in the bulletproof ice. This meant we would have to runout each pitch w/o placing pro, so it would be much more interesting, especially with the condition of the ice.

 

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We belayed 2 pitches, and the ice was so hard and dinnerplating that shards were slicing my arms and legs that Sergio sent down to me. After that we traversed and led affset from the belay and learned our lesson.

 

I led out the 2nd pitch, right after following him up

 

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I got burnt real quick and we broke this pitch into two, so he followed me and then lead out the last 1/2 pitch to the top. The last 30 feet or so were pretty cool as it was about 60 degrees and much easier to climb than the average 50 degrees down below.

 

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At the top we were greeted with a nice view of some mountain covered in snow and stuff

 

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I think it's Tiger mountain?

 

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Barely made it to the trail before sundown

 

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Good climb, just another training session to get ready for Chair this winter.

 

[ 10-23-2002, 08:20 AM: Message edited by: scot'teryx ]

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so how suprized were you when you found out that you needed screws instead of pickets [Roll Eyes] nice photos gaper...

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That was almost as epic as the Adams South Side trip. [Roll Eyes]

 

Okay, two tips:

 

If you have two tools, you'll probably need screws.

 

If your leader is sending ice down on you...ask him to climb seven feet to the left.

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quote:

Originally posted by Lambone:

so how suprized were you when you found out that you needed screws instead of pickets :: nice photos gaper...

Not that surpised, gapers like me always screw shit up like that, dont you? How is it supposed to be fun if you come fully prepared.......

-

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quote:

Originally posted by thelawgoddess:

quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

dinnerplating ice. Some running water...

hey cavey, you know i don't know anything. this sounds good if you're hungry and thirsty, but what exactly does that mean for ice climbing?

It's good. Just watch your melon for the ocassional falling rock. Don't listen to these suckas. Dinner Plates happened I bet because the ice fractured easily and was bullet hard. I climbed it and understand. Sometimes we call them comments "armchair mountaineering" [laf]

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