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Statistics and Danger on Dragontail


Buckaroo

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the value of such journals is probably mimimal at best, certainly after a long time of climbing - i learn far more from my own near-death accidents :)

 

respectfully disagree. Hopefully you're not having as many near death accidents as in the ANAM. So learning from others mistakes is what it's about.

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I stopped reading ANAM ten years ago. Same sad tales. Nobody learns from them. It seems no tale, however terrible, can overcome the self-assuredness of the mountain climber.

 

There are some stories like that (glissading with crampons). Other accounts are a good reminder of what not to do - which is nice to have (drill, and hope you catch yourself before you do something dumb).

 

The ones that I find depressing are the random incidents that you can do nothing to prevent against short of not going.

 

 

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the value of such journals is probably mimimal at best, certainly after a long time of climbing - i learn far more from my own near-death accidents :)

 

respectfully disagree. Hopefully you're not having as many near death accidents as in the ANAM. So learning from others mistakes is what it's about.

i don't think folks like us who free solo get to humor themselves that we're playing it safe

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It's one of the more accessible large alpine peaks and it's a pretty serious mountain, like others have said even the easier routes have objective danger hazards, etc.

 

I spent an unplanned night there last summer on Serpentine due to route finding difficulty and ultimately weather. We were there the day after that woman died from the rappelling accident on The Fin/Backbone.

 

My partner and I also tried Triple Couloirs this past Spring (twice). The route was never in good shape and many (including us) bailed from different locations on the route. There was no ice and the snow was junk in many places. I took a 15' fall onto my back while trying to get around what we aptly named "The over-hanging, unconsolidated snow bulge chimney variation". This is a section not to far from where the route cuts left up on the nice ice bulge (this section was 100% ice free both times we were there).

Edited by dan_e
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